Large Scale Central

EASY PEASY trail battery R/C

Electronics Power and Sound
#1

With apologies to a well known English TV chef, here is an EASY PEASY way of installing battery R/C in a trail car using the RCS BIK-TC install kit and the RCS BASIC-5 motor driver. Absolutely no soldering required. Simple screwdriver installation. My customer provided me with a tall Aristocraft old time box car. I mounted the RX-8 receiver in the roof and stretched out the antenna along the top on the inside. The antenna was tacked in place using silicone adhesive.

You could use any type of batery pack. I used two 7.2 volt sub C NiCd packs glued and tied to the floor. I used them because they are relatively low cost here in Australia. They are wired in series to get 14.4 volts with an RCS Y-CABLE which is connected to the BIK-TC.

The BIK-TC pcb is mounted in the middle on one side. The BASIC-5 is also mounted in the middle on the other side. A wiring harness compatible with the regular AC end of loco plugs is also supplied which can be seen exiting the floor at the end near the batteries.

When the body is replaced on the chassis the BIK-TC pcb is conveniently at the open door. This allows access for charging and switching ON-OFF.

The BASIC-5 is in the opposite doorway which allows access for system programming if required.

Sorry about picture quality, but here is how the universal plug comes out the end of the car. This car actually has an extra plug so that it can be run with locos that have different couplers if necessary.

I have not had a chance to range test the installation yet, but going by past experience where I can mount the stock antenna up nice and high, I expect to achieve at least 100’ with a stock TX-4. 200’ with a TX-24. Please feel free to contact me off line for parts pricing and availability.

#2

Very nice, neat, and clean install, Tony.
Could you show us a generic process of preparing a locomotive to accept this application.
Please. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:
jb

#3

Hi John.

The BIK-TC kit includes parts that permit simple plug in compatibility with regular AristoCraft locos that are equipped with the regular JST plugs at each end. So they do not require any explanation.

I also make a kit to convert USAT dismals so they can be compatible with the AC plug arrangement.
I did an article about them at MLS some time ago.

http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27819

Eventually I will have the instructions in pdf format at the RCS website like I have done for the TEN-LOC and BIK-BGL. See accessories at the RCS website.

In general all you need for trail car installations is to disconnect the track pick ups in any sort of loco and connect a JST plug to what were the track pick up wires.

#4

John,
I also posted an F3 - A & B conversion to issolated RC battery [with trail car] or track power on MLS.
The URL is http://www.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37033 .Everything I did is very compatable with the Trail car setup that Tony described above.
Jim C.

#5

Tony,
Nice job as usual—you could make a living doing that .
A question .
Does it make any noticeable difference to the running if you put the batteries (i.e. the weight ) at the end away from the engine ? Something about the weight distribution makes me feel uncomfortable , and I can’t think why . Silly when we get these feelings , but I have to ask .
I realise position may be governed by power cable length .
It may be because I am accustomed to road vehicles always putting their loads as far back as possible ,but the reason for that doesn’t apply here (helps steering )
Mike

#6

Good info! I gotta use this to build a trail car for the 2-4-2 tank engine. Tried fittin batteries in the tanks but they are a bit large, the tanks bulge out a little. Probably use a caboose/work car for the conversion.

#7

Hi Mike.

Not really.
I usually put them at one or both ends. This leaves the space in the middle for the controllers etc.
As long as they are centered and inboard of the trucks I doubt they would have any effect.
I would use BB wheelsets rather than straight friction bearings if the batteries are to be very heavy like Gel Cells.
The cables supplied in the kit can reach well past the middle of the car.

Ken, for the little 2-4-2’s you would only need a 2 amp controller.
Saves money.

#8

Thanks , Tony .
It seems then that the layout is only dictated by access requirements .
The use of ball races is a good idea , I hadn’t thought about the weight affecting wheel bearings . Must do a bit of swopping over before some of them melt a bit .
Mike M