Hey, that works.
Very nice, very nice.
Doc Watson
To replicate the tar-paper roofing often used on this kind of car, try using 200grit abrasive paper cut into two-icnh wide strips an put down with an overlay of about 1/4 inch. You can put it on vertically or lengthways - I’ve seen it done both ways.
tac
Ottawa Valley GRS
Gee tac, I just used tar paper.
Ah, OK.
Here in yUK I haven’t seen tar paper for many years.
tac
Now add step straps into the openings behind the Gon section so your MOW crew can get to the stuff.
tac, I have a supply of it left over from when I roofed my house. My redone Bachmann boxcars and stock cars are roofed with it, as is the scratch-built boxcar pictured.
Andrew Moore said:
Now add step straps into the openings behind the Gon section so your MOW crew can get to the stuff.
My work crew are all quite tall with very long legs.
Good catch. I may have to address that issue.
S
Oh, By the way, maybe I didn’t make myself clear about this project. This is just for sh-ts and grins. I have numerous, other, actual projects I really give a sh-t about going on like putting sound cards in two different locomotives and figuring out how to repaint my new Davenport. This whole project was just a lark idea out of left field from an unwanted bobber caboose that came with the set i bought for the Davenport switcher and skeleton log cars. It went together so easily though, like peanut butter and jelly that I just had to share my good fortune in case other folks may be pondering ways in which to build a MOW caboose.
I’m diggin’ thanks for posting-keep up the good work!
Thanks Cale, you get it. This whole thing has been kind of a side joke of a project. Even with silly stuff though I try and do a thorough job.
Needs some grime!
Looks good.
I finally got what I wanted from the Bachmann Davenport train set. This MOW caboose was a digressive offshoot project from the main objective which was to get a Caterpillar Gold, abused looking, Davenport industrial engine. The engine came stock from Bachmann in a, not unattractive, green color, but not what I really wanted. I could’ve just bought the Davenport from Trainworld for 100 bucks plus shipping but as a friend said a few weeks back; “You’re really getting a lot of mileage out of that Davenport train set aren’t you?” Well, for a 179 dollar purchase I’d have to say “Yes…I have.” It’s been a tremendous enjoyment purchase.
It has given me the raw materials to build my MOW caboose. It has given me two skeleton log cars. It has given me track to share with a buddy to get him involved with his first large scale train. And, it has given me what I originally bought it for…a well used/beat looking, Davenport industrial engine I re-painted to Caterpillar Gold. Yellow Pine Lumber Co., No. 7 decals are coming as soon as the clear decal printer paper arrives. i may add some more rust too.
Engine Looks really nice. Any thing special to cover the green before you applied the gold? Also, what did you do to get the outstanding weathering/abused look?
Thanks Bill, And ‘firstly’, I feel I would be remiss if I did not take this time to comment that, that’s quite a distinguished photo of yourself. [laugh!] I think we’re both more used to seeing each other in blue jeans!
Taking my Bachmann Davenport from stock green to this state could NOT have been easier. Which is good as I ALWAYS prefer the easy route.
Step 1; Take engine and using blue masking tape cover the grille and windows.
Step 2, spray loco with Valspar 86009, “caramel/honey” gold spray paint available at Lowe’s to give it the base “Caterpillar” gold color.
Step 3; Take a few ounces of isopropyl rubbing alcohol in an old jar/can and add successive drops of India ink to the alcohol until your brush gives/leaves you with a suitable filthy/grimy wash on the object du jour.
Step 4; when dry go over the diamond plate decking with washes of a thinned down gray acrylic paint. When that is dry, re-wash the same area with very thinned rust/raw sienna acrylic paint for rust. Also wash the same thinned rust paint on strategic spots of the engine.]
Very simple really. I hope my description wasn’t too boring. I find weathering items to be very simple and I worked in theatre in college doing set design and also worked for a sign shop many years ago and one thing I learned from that is when it comes to weathering, “Go Big”, like in theatre, subtle weathering rarely comes across at all. If you think you’re over-weathering something…you’re probably doing it “just right”. Our models tend to be viewed from quite a few feet away, not up close so…subtlety doesn’t create the theatrical effect most of us usually want in my experience.
Great job Scott. Weathering is just right. I’m sure your explaination of your process will be helpful to many.
Doc Watson
That Looks 'Egg’cellent
can we see the entire consist?
Waynesville-not too far from here!
I’ll try Cale. I work at Biltmore and we’re running wide open decorating for the Christmas season and Doc and Bill and other members of our garden train club are advising and helping to construct a 70’ x 25’ garden layout here in Asheville at the WNC Arboretum for their Winter Nights light festival that will become a permanent fixture for the arboretum and we’re getting in to crunch time over there so…may be a while before i can post further photos.
Thanks for the kind words about my modelling efforts though.
S
Cale, Where are you located? It’s not listed under your info?
Scott
So Spartanburg county