Large Scale Central

Dry Transfers, Pro's and Cons

Modeling
#1

Finally got around to lettering some recent projects. Got me to thinking why I chose Dry Transfers over decals and wondered what others thought. A quick review of the pro’s/con’s… Here is a sheet of custom transfers…Cost me $80.00 ($28 for the plate, $24 for computer time, $25 per printed sheet). Likely a “CON” but honestly custom cut vinyl will be similar, no idea as to equivalent decals. . .

. . CON…Placement/burnishing is not as easy as you might think. The sheet “stretches” and care must be taken for it not to slip or stretch when applying. You need to leave sufficient space around the image for handling (no butting up text). Taping into place helps a lot! . . Big burnisher for large work…And a small tip for tight spaces/small lettering. . .

. . PRO…When you’re done you’re DONE! No need to over-coat and no evidence of a ‘backer sheet’ because there is no backer! . .

. . CON…You get what you get. You give them a file with poor resolution, you get poor resolution back. . .

. . All in all I am happy with the efforts. $80 = 4 cars…$20.00/car. . .

#2

Dry transfers have “cons?”

The cars look great!

Later,

K

#3

I have never found a negative feature to dry transfers. One suggestion - I always apply a light coat of Krylon Matte finish when the car/locomotive is complete.

Looks real nice Mark!

Jerry

#4

Thanks Kevin/Jerry…I get my transfers from Pro-Mark. They make them for the R/C aircraft market. No top-coat needed. They are actually fuel proof after 24 hours. Very robust inks!

Not many “cons” Kevin, but a few…One thing I learned with the Pro-Mark transfers, make a mistake and it’s permanent! A decal can be wiped away, these require sand-paper.

I noted that while I have used these on many “undecorated” cars and engines in the past, there was something on the surface of the Bachmann tanker that prevented the transfer from “transferring”. Never ran into that before. A quick rub with alcohol fixed that but I did lose a set of transfers in the process. That’s why I always order extra!

Also, never send a Word file. Send Correl or .pdfs! I purchaced GN font as oddly enough most computers don’t come with one! :smiley: I also measure a letter height and supply that with the order. Assures you will get what you wanted.

#5

I have never used any thing from Pro-Mark but I found that an overcoat helps protect them from the normal wear and tear of handling rolling stock. I have knocked bits of lettering off. One could consider it weathering I suppose but I would rather keep the lettering in tact. I would use nothing but dry transfers but for me it’s cost prohibitive !

#6

Quote: "“I noted that while I have used these on many “undecorated” cars and engines in the past, there was something on the surface of the Bachmann tanker that prevented the transfer from “transferring”. Never ran into that before. A quick rub with alcohol fixed that but I did lose a set of transfers in the process. That’s why I always order extra!”

That something on the surface was mold release, which manufacturers use to keep the part from sticking in the mold. I always wash plastic parts in a mild solution of warm dish soap (like Dawn) and dry them with compressed air before painting/decal/dry trasfer.

Jerry

#7

Yeah, I figured it was mold release…Just the first time I’ve ever run into it. Odd it’s not on any of their other rolling stock as I’ve lettered every type of car they produced before the tankers.

#8

Mark, try denatured alcohol on the “oopses.” Success may vary with the particular inks used, but I’ve re-done some cars and found the alcohol dissolved the transfers very easily–this after redoing some cars I wasn’t planning re-lettering and discovering that alcohol dissolved the transfers very easily.

I’ll agree–keeping the transfers lined up and even when applying them takes a bit of practice–especially when lettering or numbering from letter/number sheets instead of from a dedicated set. (And it’s especially problematic when doing tiny lettering like that!) But compared to decals, it’s a no-brainer if your artwork is monochromatic. Once you start introducing multiple colors (i.e. gold lettering with red shadow, color logos, etc.) then the dry transfers quickly become cost-prohibitive unless you’re doing enough on a sheet to do many cars.

What was the deal with your artwork and the jagged edges? Was the artwork converted from font to a bitmap prior to printing?

Later,

K

#9
Kevin Strong said:
...What was the deal with your artwork and the jagged edges? Was the artwork converted from font to a bitmap prior to printing?

Later,

K


Yep. I really need to get a better program like Corel Draw to create my files. The font I used was “Railroadmania”. As I know they didn’t have it I saved the word document as a .pdf. It is only noticeable at extreme close-up but irritating nevertheless. I really should ask them if they could download the font.

I’ll try the denatured alcohol. I know the screened inks they use are “fuel proof” to gas, oil, and nitro methane. I know some pilots also run Nitro/alcohol mix. Still worth a shot!