Question , Does anyone know of a place to have dry transfer decals custom made ? Thanks
“Dry Transfer” is one thing, Decals are usually wet.
Sometimes the use of an old Dry transfer, on Decal paper can preserve the old Dry transfer.
Dry transfers have a best before date, so do decals. Some call them “Water Slide Decals”
As far as I know, Stan does not have the capability to produce Dry transfers. He does only Decals, and is known for his quality, and customer satisfaction.
CDS Dry transfers are supposedly available from a division of Ozark Miniatures. I don’t know if they do custom work.
Fred Mills
Hi Mike… You might do a Google search for Dry Transfer Decals… There’s a few companies out there…
mike dorsch said:
Question , Does anyone know of a place to have dry transfer decals custom made ? Thanks
The Friends of the East Broad Top have theirs made in Canada, where the process is still common. I think Kevin set up the designs. Company is called All-out Graphics:
The third one down in Stan’s list looks like the best bang for the buck, stateside or Canada. Stan’s is still the best bang for the buck I believe for custom lettering.
Al P.
Thanks everyone for your reply . I’ve used Stans decals in the past but they are waterslide decals . They are great but they must be used on a glossy surface. Since I have been doing the “hairspray” weathering method I don’t want to clearcoat them to apply decals and then use a matte finish as the final topcoat. Thanks for the links guys , that’s what I was looking for.
Mike,
I have carefully used waterslide decals on rough surfaces. I apply as normal and get the correct position, then let set. I next apply small amounts of lacquer thinner around the edges with a 00 paint brush. the decal will melt into the substrate. this only works in small amounts, and may take several sessions to get every thing to settle in. often times using a pin to perforate the decal film in stubborn areas. once most areas have settled in I overspray with lacquer thinner in my airbrush to clean up the remaining areas. if you apply too much at one time the decal will shrivel up and become a mess so patience is the virtue.
Best to try this technic on something other that your prized model first.
AL P.
mike dorsch said:
Thanks everyone for your reply . I’ve used Stans decals in the past but they are waterslide decals . They are great but they must be used on a glossy surface. Since I have been doing the “hairspray” weathering method I don’t want to clearcoat them to apply decals and then use a matte finish as the final topcoat. Thanks for the links guys , that’s what I was looking for.
Mike, I have also used Stan’s decals and been VERY pleased with the results.
As an alternative, you might want to take a look at G Scale Graphics vinyl lettering. It’s not as thin as dry transfers, but it’s very easy to work with.
I’ve used his lettering for a building sign as well as this reefer. Holds up VERY nicely. It won’t do super small data, but for my purposes it worked great.
Thanks Bruce and Al for the feedback . I’m just looking for data and such for my projects. Just black and white stuff. I have been using available lettering from my local hobby shop but doing lines of small letters and numbers is a real pain .
Al Pomeroy said:
Mike,
I have carefully used waterslide decals on rough surfaces. I apply as normal and get the correct position, then let set. I next apply small amounts of lacquer thinner around the edges with a 00 paint brush. the decal will melt into the substrate. this only works in small amounts, and may take several sessions to get every thing to settle in. often times using a pin to perforate the decal film in stubborn areas. once most areas have settled in I overspray with lacquer thinner in my airbrush to clean up the remaining areas. if you apply too much at one time the decal will shrivel up and become a mess so patience is the virtue.
Best to try this technic on something other that your prized model first.
AL P.
Al, the need for a “glossy” surface when using waterslide decals is more down to the need to “hide” the decal’s carrier film rather than the need for a flat surface for it to be applied to. My apologies if I have misunderstood the message you are conveying in your post.
When applying a waterslide decal to a textured, double curvature or irregular surface first apply a gloss coat (if not already there) then brush on some Microscale “Microset” solution, or similar, then apply the decal on top of this. The Microset product has the properties to clear out most of the things that can stop the decal adhering and settling evenly onto most flat and textured surfaces. There are some very good waterslide decal “solvents” out there to get decals to conform to highly irregular surfaces, the most common being Microscale’s “Microsol” and a product available from Walthers. You should always test any product used on a small piece of spare decal as different makes of waterslides can react quite differently to different solvent products - from no effect to destroying the decal entirely.
But always apply waterslide decals to a gloss surface or you risk some degree of unsightly show through of the carrier film where there is no printed area on the decal carrier film as applied. Then just finish off when dried with your chosen finish, dull, satin, gloss. Again make sure the laquer coat is compatible with the decal material. The solvents in some lacquers can destroy some decals.
Max,
The lacquer thinner dissolves the carrier film, leaving only the printed artwork.
Al P.
Al Pomeroy said:
Max,
The lacquer thinner dissolves the carrier film, leaving only the printed artwork.
Al P.
We are probably getting mixed up with terminology as we sit either side of the pond Al. My understanding of a typical waterslide decal construction is as follows - Paper substrate, then printed in sequence, adhesive layer, carrier film layer, printed artwork (as many passes as required by print method used), finally lacquer coat to seal the printed artwork. By definition if you are removing the carrier film you will have removed the printed artwork too. Some low volume produced decals have the adhesive, carrier and lacquer coats cropped and printed to match that of the artwork - at least those I specced for the model range I used to manufacture, as do those supplied for most mass market products.
My understanding of the term lacquer thinners is that it is what I would term “cellulose thinners” - a product I would not let near any decal or paintwork, unless I was intending to remove it pronto. I have seen some waterslide decals that will disintegrate with even simple enamel paint thinners/whit spirit.
As to the OP’s original request - I wish more competent and reliable suppliers of bespoke dry print decals were widely available here in the UK now. Seems to be a dying technology. I used to use them for prototyping designs before committing to expensive print runs from a supplier who made full size liveries for race cars as well as scale ones. Woodland scenics do a good range of letters and numerals in Railroad Roman font though if you just want something basic.
Yes, lacquer thinner is pretty aggressive and can melt paint and plastic, but I see Al takes great care to tell you to be careful, and use a small brush and do a bit at a time.
I think Al is removing the carrier film that extends beyond the printed/color part you are interested in.
Greg