Over the years I have accumulated more cars than I need. Part of this is a group of Accucraft flatcar mounted tankers. Since the price was right (less then half the price of flat car models) I decided to convert some of them for other projects necessitating the removal of the tank.
Accucraft cars are well made (mostly of cast resin) and not meant to be dismantled.
I am working with a 1/20.3 tanker painted for Standard oil company. A friend wants the tank so I need to get it off with as little damage as possible.
First go the trucks.
With them out of the way I have to remove the bolster to get to all of the screws holding the tank on. The bolster is attached with these star head screws. On each end of the car is a pair of Phillips head screws holding the end block in place.
Once the bolster is gone I can see the main retaining screw holding the tank on. There are also small screws holding the first chock in place. I removed the Phillips head screws on each end at the same time.
There is one more main retaining screw located under the drain valve. I popped off the valve with needle nose pliers and removed the screw.
The tank is now being held on by the retaining bands and a small amount of glue. The bands are plastic with the ends glued into the top of the car. Grab them at the bottom with needle nose pliers and gently pry up. Sometimes they pull out easily, sometimes they break even with the top. There is also an alignment pin on the top center. It is tightly fitted but not often glued. A screw driver inserted next to it under the band will usually get it out. I put a finger on the outside of the screw driver to provide a little negative tension over the blade. This keeps the band from folding up next to the pin and breaking.
The tank is attached with both retaining pins and some glue. A large screw driver inserted under the tank can be used to pry it loose. A little back and forth from each end does the job.Be careful not to bend the tension rods.
The chocks are glued on. To get them off I used a utility knife to get under the edge of each chock. A small tack hammer was used to gently drive the blade down between the chock and the surface of the flat car. Coming in at the corner and end proved to be the best method. Once the chock broke free I inserted a small standard blade screw driver to help pry them loose. The edges got damaged some. Easily repairable but unavoidable.
The tensions rods are brass and can be slid out of the chocks with a little coaxing. All that is left is to fill the holes and sand off any rough areas.
This was the basis for various flat loads as well as my low side gondola.
