Large Scale Central

Diesel Details

Modeling Motive Power
#21

Paul Burch said:

Devon,

Shapeways has quite a bit of 1/29 parts The website can be a little hard to search. Website Trains - Shapeways Miniatures

Thingiverse also has some stuff, but their search engine is worse.

I knw Shapeways does have much of what I need. i just have a sort of love hate relationship with them. If need be I will buy from them. One thing I thought about with thingiverse is I don’t have to necessarily use G scale. If they have stuff in other scale I can possibly scale it up. So i will have to look further at that.

#22

Paul Burch said:

Devon,

Shapeways has quite a bit of 1/29 parts The website can be a little hard to search. Website Trains - Shapeways Miniatures

Thingiverse also has some stuff, but their search engine is worse.

“Can be”?! Oh it is, Shapeways absolutely documentably IS hard to search.

My recent experiences for example, looking for HO scale locomotive firemen - “58K results” and in the first 20 pages of results in order of relevance, not one fireman, nor even an engineer, but it did cough up a bunch of locomotives which were scales other than HO scale.

Thingverse’s search engine is worse? They must have spent very good money hiring someone talented enough to create it since the laws of probability are stacked well against that happening by accident.

#23

Well on the thingiverse thing I started pouring over stuff. And I think I got most all of what I need. Whats left I can design myself easy enough or buy from USA trains. What i had to do was look at people building complete locomotives and down load their files and get the part I was after. I found fans, the horn, MARs lights, ditch lights, and air tanks (for behind the fuel tank).

The subtle key to this is to not make 102 and 103 identical. I don’t need them to be a rivet counted replica but they can’t be the same wither. It needs to have that cobbled feel. But with what I found in fans I can make different arraignments of fans and have it look good that is one of the noticeable differences is that the fans are all different. Also the MARs lights are different, one has shields one doesn’t and the file I found has both. So I think I will have the subtle differences I need and the parts I need to make a pretty decent representation of the two locomotives.

Louvers I think I like Craig’s idea of quarter round. A bit tedious but I can do it. I have to remake all the hinges also so there will be some styrene work to be done.

I am glad I posted this and put the loco on the work bench its got me fired up to work on it again. Being able to print and design parts will help keep me going. Of all of my unfinished projects this one bugs me the most.

#24

Devon,

I do the same as Craig for the louvers. Takes a bit of time, but looks really good when complete.

I get some of my parts here.

https://www.miniaturesbyeric.com/

Shane

#25

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Q1-b2hJ66k (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#26

#27

Devon Sinsley said: Louvers I think I like Craig’s idea of quarter round. A bit tedious but I can do it.

As it happens, just last night I was going through some ‘recently old’ Garden Railways magazines brought home from model train club a couple weeks ago, and in detailing an N&W GP9 in the February 2015 issue, Gavin Smart of Kilmore, Scotland, does exactly that even though commenting that it was tedious and time consuming so he did them in small groups so he didn’t feel overwhelmed by the job. Also comments that doing only small groups at a time allowed time for glue to dry so he was less likely to knock louvers out of place while applying more.

#28

I think I will go the quater round route. I now there are other ways but I think i can make that happen easy enough a little at a time as Forest suggests. I have to do the same with the hinges. I’ll just take a couple doors at a time’

#29

#30

David,

You are being quite the help on this project. First your wonder MU stand that I almost want to use just because its great Idea even though I no longer need it. And then a fine example of the 1/4 round louvers. Yeah its a lot of work but your results are beautiful. What size 1/4 are you using, i need to pick some up?

#31

An update on the detail parts acquiring adventure. Looks like I am going to be putting my 3D printer to good use. Almost everything I need is available in one way or another for print. I am learning at great rates the versatility of this platform. Its a good time to make a shout out to the people helping me with this adventure.

Dan Hilyer has been my goto man for most of it especially the CAD design using Fusion 360.

Cliff Jennings and Dan have been super helpful in managing resin settings and getting my Photon to actually print something.

Burl Rice for supplying a key needed detail already drawn as an .stl file.

Joe Macummins (a lurker here) for turning me onto a program called Matter Control which allows me to take other peoples designs and cut out only the detail part I want instead of the entire design.

Dan again for turning me onto Lychee slicer. This is a tailor made program for grouping parts and adding the supports for resin printing.

Beyond that almost every part I need in one way or another I found on Thingiverse. At first i found nothing much of what I needed. As mentioned already their search engine leaves a lot to be desired. And not much in 1:29 or specific parts. But again learning, you don’t need 1:29 parts thats why we have scaling in our design software. Also a learning point was people are making complete models and have the files you need as only a part of their over all design. So you can download all of their files and then delete what you don’t need.

In doing this I now have my Nathan P3 horn. Two different versions of a 36" fans (which is good because the 1:1 has different fans in each spot), Air cylinders to replace the ones I lost, two different Pile lights (and yes the 1:1 has different headlights on each of their locos), and ditch lights.

The only pieces that I can think of off the top of my head that I still need are winterization hatches, MU stands, Brake stands, and the stirrup looking things on the boggie side frames. The newly acquired one is missing 3. I think I can design and print all of this.

#32

Shane Stewart said:

Devon,

I do the same as Craig for the louvers. Takes a bit of time, but looks really good when complete.

I get some of my parts here.

https://www.miniaturesbyeric.com/

Shane

I haven’t looked at this site in detail yet but at a quick glance this is a silent treasure chest for diesel details. Thanks for sharing.

#33

I am plugging away on this. Now that I am getting proficient with my 3D printer, both using other peoples designs and designing my own. I will have all the detail parts I need. I did get some straight from USA trains but only a few. That will be the only purchased details.

I have the nose chopped and the 24" fan holes filled. I need to design and print the brake stand and the winterization hatch. But I am moving along. Will start posting pics soon.

#34

There is more and more on Shapeways and Thingyverse for 3d printed parts and files to print on your own. Many times the designer on Shapeways will upscale parts to your needed scale if asked. Just shows him another scale he can sell his part in. There is also a gentleman selling some parts on ebay that are 3d printed, From Prime stratolight beacons, ATSF roof package sets, Horst air intake filers, snowplows for the pilot face ect. G scale diesel parts have been sparse beyond what one could get from USA trains. That is slowly starting to change with more and more 3d printing of those parts. Mike

#35

Devon

as far as the 1/4 round for the louvers go I have used both .030 and .040 depending on the prototype I am copying. I figure what the area I need to work within is and the # of louvers used on the prototype within that area. And I see what size accomplishes the needs. I even have .060 on hand but have not found the need for those as of yet, but I have come close once.

Spacing is usually top of one touching the next one, but again you may need to add a knife blade of space between to achieve the look you want.

Really sorry I have taken this long to respond. I totally missed your post