Large Scale Central

Deuce and a Half bed cover

Modeling
#1

I figure Mike Morgan will know exactly how to go about this … but I’ll throw it out for everyone else to see too.

I have a Bachmann Railtruck in front of me for testing purposes.

I think most of the photos I’ve seen that have kept me away from the model have been enlarged pictures of the ON30 one or something … this one is very nicely detailed, and I think probably I’m going to have to include one in the SCRY fleet at some point.

That said … I’m not particularly thrilled with the arrangement of the bed area of the truck. The wooden (plastic) stake sides and back leave quite a bit to be desired … and even if they were made of “real” wood, I’m not sure it’s the arrangement I’d choose, particularly with the large obligatory “Mail Box” in the middle of the floor (which was, I’m told on the prototype as well) taking up most of the bed inside the rackbody.

So… I’m thinking of ways to enclose the back without making a full blown “goose” out of it … and, while I’ve seen the tarped cargo approach, I want something a bit bigger …

I"m wondering … the National Guard back home was famous for long convoys of “Deuce and a Half” trucks on the weekends… where the bed had short metal sides (easy to do) and then a canvas cover that was shaped very like a loaf of bread, with four or so ribs from front to back, and flaps over the back. Inside could be anything from a bunch of soldiers to a pile of boxes to a pallet of ammunition, weapons, or whatever … but from the outside they all looked the same.

Since the Slate Creek has a military component to its “history” I wonder if a similar arrangement could be set up for the rail truck. Above the short metal sides and tailgate, have any of the military modelers among us made the kind of canvas cover I’m describing? If so, how do you go about it?

Matthew (OV)

#2

The basis of a canvas tilt on a model is usually doped tissue paper and stiff wire .
The tilt hoops are fashioned from the wire , which ideally should be about 1mm dia for 1/20 . So you make an inverted “u” for each hoop , and would normally have one front , one back , and two or three in the centre depending on the length of truck bed .These can be push fitted into small tubes glued to the sides of the body .
The trick then is to get "hairless " paper,tissue from craft shops is best over here but any hairless tissue will do . Take your tissue and cut a piece big enough to cover your hoops , plus about an inch ,
This is draped over the hoops and then comes the awkward bit . Bit by bit , starting one end at the top centre of one hoop , dab a little superglue . Let it dry , then gently piull the tissue tight downwards on one side and repeat the glue bit .
Now go to the other side , and repeat , only this time you have to pull down and away from the centre(fore and aft ) slightly This effectively gives a smooth start to the rest of the process which is simple a repeat of what you have just done . You should finish up with a set of hoops with a cover like an old covered wagon . Do not have too much sag in it .
Usually , the front of the tilt is closed , so cut a piece to fit , and glue it to the front hoop , . NOW , trim the top cover you put on first to about 1/4 to 1/2 inch for folding over the front that you have just fitted , the little folds will naturaly occur , but try to make them even . If you want the back closed , repeat the front bit , if you don’t , you will have to cut a piece to size and roll it ,remembering that at the top , there is usually a straight edge where the curves of the hoop end and become verticals . You can glue little straps onths , from whatever you can find . Paper will work . Trim the bottom of the tilt leaving enough to go over the edge of the bed .
At this stage ,I should mention that using tubes in the body can mean a removable tilt for access to cargo , motor , whatever . But it must be painted and dried first
The next part can be done at any stage after the first tissue covering is put on , you will see for yourself if you try it .
You paint the tilt in whatever colour you want with quick drying paint or even clear nail varnish thinned down if necessary with nail varnish remover . (Yes , makes you wonder how I know don’t it ?) this is a bit subjective , only you as you make this can tell how much to put on . The tissue is only really acting as a carrier for the paint , so more coats can impart strength , but not too many .
I have made several tilts this way , even up at 1/16 scale , and it works .
BUT BUT BUT it is not for kids to handle . It is not like a piece of moulded plastic . It is strong enough to last a long time properly handled , those which I have doen survivr the removal of the tilt from its tube pockets if you handle it correctly . It is scale modelling at the limit , really , but properly done , very well worth the effort . The tissue duplicates the little creases that happen on the full size one , they come out naturally in the stretching/glueing process .
Best of luck , please ask if you need any further explanation . I have used other means of doing this , but they are more time takers .
Mike M

#3

My son Martyn just popped home to check up on me , so I showed him the post above .
He pointed out the following
1 The hoops should go inside the body .
2 The superglue is applied on the outside and soaks through the tissue .
3 Instead of quick drying paint , you can use watered down PVA White wood glue . This dries quite quickly
but not as quick as paint . It makes little difference to the end product , and can be easier to do because the
tissue can be painted with the PVA first and applied to the hoops wet .It does however split very easily while
wet .
Another way of making tilts is to take a piece of balsa and carve it to shape , then cut a cavity for motor tops and so fifth . This is a bit more tedious and requires a bit of skill and patience getting the right finish to the wood .We have done it where kids have been involved handling , but the tissue on frame is very much more realistic and gives max. space ., important if you need airflow round whatever is in the body . Like if a motor is sticking up .
No doubt , over time , we will both think of other things we could say , especially given a reminder trip through our vast collection of models .
That worries me , I look in my storage boxes and think " I don’t remember making that " Silly old sod . I will have to keep taking the tablets .
MIke M

#4

Well, then, we’ll try that …

I’m picturing a sticky mess of tissue super glue and other small bits stuck to my hand, via the telephone… but I’m gonna try it ANYWAY.

Thanks, Mike.

MB

#5

My pleasure , best of luck . You’ll do it ok , don’t worry .
Mike