Large Scale Central

Detailing a Eaglewings Ironcraft Engine facility

Problem Solving
#1

So recently a good deal on an Eaglewings Ironcraft engine facility came up that I couldn’t pass up and I purchased it. I gotta say it is an amazing looking building but is a two man lift to move as this one was modified to be slightly longer then the standard building. For those not familiar with it, it can be viewed in following link and is the T-6 building:

http://www.eaglewingsironcraft.com/view_gallery.php?gallery=new&id=5

Seeing as how large it is when I do build my railroad it is going to have to remain outside year round as I do not plan on moving this. That being said I want to detail it up as well as while it is impressive it is still just a large piece of painted metal. As such looking for advice and sounding board here on how to do this. Currently the unit has a flat roof that all around edge and where skylights there is not a solid weld going around meaning water will pour in through the top of this thing. My thoughts to try and solve this I am going to have to seal up the top of the roof and then put in some drain pipes to allow water to drain off. Not sure if there is good sealant that will stick to painted metal to use as a start? To me silicone never seems to fully stick and would still let water in. My next thought is to help water proof and add roof detail is to use something like the following:

https://www.lifesafedirect.com/non-skid-vinyl-tape

Cutting this to run across roof and up the side walls and then sealing seams to create a bit of a bathtub that would then use the drain pipes to channel the water off. Curious of those who have building if they have any take on this? The building is what it is and can’t angle the roof sadly.

#2

There are small copper fitting and tube (1/4 inch or even 3/8) that could be used as down spouts. You could also make small sheet metal scupper. All of these could be soldered on/into the Eaglewings Metal structures. The non-skid tape will work for roofing and will seal the joints.

#3

Why don’t you ask Eaglewings Iron Craft for some advice? A structure in that price range shouldn’t have a leaky roof.

Maybe there was something overlooked during its’ manufacture. Maybe that is why you got a deal you couldn’t pass up.

It never hurts to ask!

Tom

#4

This is how eaglewings builds them as it is part of the design. I agree maybe more thought should have been put into keeping the rain out but it is what it is and now I have to work around that.

#5

I use black E-6000 adhesive to seal stuff - and to sort of resemble the tar they put on roofs. It holds up pretty well.

But, aren’t the windows all open? If I wanted to seal it, I would use clear acylic - it also holds up well and stays clear over the years.

Small drain pipes will more than likely clog up- just like the real ones do. I have 1/4" pipes about a half inch long coming off of my roofs. Pretty easy to clean with a small wire.

You will need to also consider closing off those bay doors - other wise that building will fill with leaves (and other things) in no time. Mark Dashnaw printed me some nice garage doors in scale segmants - could have made it operational, they were that good, although I just put a solid piece of acrylic behind them… He could probably come up with some roof detail as well.

Other option is to leave it all as is…and not worry about glazing or ventilation. You can probably clean it out with a leaf blower.

Although a nice sign would look great!

#6

Scuppers were quite common on flat roof buildings.

Scuppers

Tom

#7

Tom those scuppers are a good idea. Hard part will be trying to create a square hole in steel.

Bruce thanks for the info on that adhesive. I do plan on doing brick work and putting in windows as well just starting the roof first. I plan to try and create roll up doors as well.

#8

Joseph Lupinski said:

Tom those scuppers are a good idea. Hard part will be trying to create a square hole in steel.

Bruce thanks for the info on that adhesive. I do plan on doing brick work and putting in windows as well just starting the roof first. I plan to try and create roll up doors as well.

For a scupper, you don’t really need a square hole. Just use a copper tube (or drill a hole) and mount a square (or rectangle) scupper to it.

#9

#10

On that building it would require a lot of masking but you might consider Flex-Seal in the spray can. I use it on a lot of model roof applications and it works very well.

Rick

https://www.getflexseal.com/Root/6.0000/Index.dtm?otsid=7337

#11

Bruce you are right it doesn’t have to be square but seems less efficient in removing water if it isn’t.

Ricky I have always wondered about that stuff after seeing the ads glad to hear someone has had good results with it.

#12

I have used that non-skid tape for the roof. I cut mine in strips and used the E6000 to look like tar. Since I put it out in 2007, I have also added more black E6000, as the edges of the tape want to lift up a bit.

Here’s what it looked like in 2007, before I put it outside.

If you’re going to glaze the windows, you will need something for ventilation. And, no matter how tight you try to seal everything, critters will find a way inside. They may be just the little guys…

#13

Bruce good to know. I am curious what kind of non skid tape did you use?

#14

Joseph Lupinski said:

Bruce good to know. I am curious what kind of non skid tape did you use?

I’m curious as well! (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-embarassed.gif)I can’t remember, but I THINK it was something I got from TAP Plastics. They also cut all of the acrylic for me and Russ Miller gave me lots of good advice. For some of my other, more recent projects, I’ve just ordered it from Amazon - whatever is Prime. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)

#15

I’d suggest a non skid designed for showers/bath tubs, my thinking the water proofing can’t hurt.

#16

John and Bruce my plan was to use the vinyl stuff I linked earlier in post that can be used out doors and on boat docks.

#17

Lowe’s sell that non-skid tape. It’s used on steps. Comes in a 3" wide roll.

#18

Joseph Lupinski said:

John and Bruce my plan was to use the vinyl stuff I linked earlier in post that can be used out doors and on boat docks.

Hey, why not? Sounds good. The stuff I got over 10 years ago may not even be available any more, and the newer stuff better anyway? Who knows? There are so many variables…just try it and see if it works for YOU! I’m always hesitant. or should be, to recommend stuff. Just because it works for me doesn’t mean it will work for you!

#19

I looked at that link Joseph, the pattern on some of the products is pretty large, I would think you want a small pattern to scale, or even perhaps the “grit type”, although some of the grit would be pretty big rocks in our scale.

Have you seen this particular product up close?

Greg

#20

Joseph Lupinski said:

John and Bruce my plan was to use the vinyl stuff I linked earlier in post that can be used out doors and on boat docks.

I think my problem was that I tried to overlap it and it doesn’t stick well to itself. Put some space in between and fill the gap with black E6000…