I’m a little angry with the cyber internet information, I have been trying to get basic fundamental of wiring my layout DC analog with no Common Rail. I know there was something before DCC. I don’t like DCC and every time I try to search for the DC wiring I still get DCC. Can anyone help to find the right information I’m looking for. Please understand, I’m an old dog and use to the old way of doing it, DCC requires a lot of changing and LOT $$$, I don’t use common rail system they are stupid and don’t work, It didn’t work for N gauge and Didn’t work for HO. If you throw one transfer in reverse it shorts and you have to run everything in the same direction, BORING, trust I 've try every way possible with Common rail, until an old timer in 1981 told what the problem was, use Double insulated with DTD toggles, been happy ever since.
Try purchasing the book, “How to wire your Model Railroad”, by the same publishers of Model Railroader, Magazine…then read it from cover to cover…then go back and read the basics again…
Have to agree with Fred here. Internet searches usually result in lots of conflicting information which only further confuse the issue. The method you seek is pretty fundamental, once you understand the theory, it isn’t difficult to design wiring for any situation you can think of.
On the other hand, we’d be glad to answer any specific questions.
Not to try to change your mind in any way, but DCC wiring is way simpler than your DC setup.
The cost and energy is in fitting decoders. You can buy a high quality control system with 3 amps for under $200.
Anyway, the reference above will help you, DC block control. One thing you might want to do is as you ask questions and find answers, if you have a way to post the diagram associated with your wiring question, it will probably help.
Not a requirement, but trying to describe wiring issues without pictures is tough.
Ask away! People are here to help.
Greg
Sorry, double post.
Todd Brody said:
Jim Weingart said:
I don’t use common rail system they are stupid and don’t work, It didn’t work for N gauge and Didn’t work for HO. If you throw one transfer in reverse it shorts and you have to run everything in the same direction, BORING, trust I 've try every way possible with Common rail, until an old timer in 1981 told what the problem was, use Double insulated with DTD toggles, been happy ever since.
I don’t know why you have a problem. I run common rail and include my trains, turnouts, accessories, and all of my lighting though that rail. (Sure saves $$$, time, and effort on wiring.) I run 3 Train Engineers and they can each run their blocks in either direction regardless of what the other two Train Engineers are doing.
Plus, I can run any or all of the TEs as point-to-point using three reversing units built into the console. Of course this switches the polarity on that TE but the common rail has no problem with this.
The only time that you would have a problem with a common rail is if you let a train traverse between two blocks and each was under control by a separate power supply and they were switched in opposite directions. When this happens on my railroad, the engine just starts jumping back and forth over a span of several inches until I correct the polarity. But you would have this same problem even if the rails were double insulated.
If you didn’t want to use a common rail, the only change that you would need to make is that you would have to double insulate your blocks, and you would have to use block switches/relays that could throw both poles of each power supply simultaneously.
Maybe if you described your problems we could help…
You can see our railroad (with common rail) run 7 trains and a RigiDuo, and … at the link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUFmrN3SQJ4&feature=player_detailpage
I found that people were trying common rail with reversing between blocks AND only one power supply… that won’t work, you short your power supply.
But separate power supplies for each cab will work, and worked for many people.
But, common rail was basically designed to save wire and wiring (fewer wires, fewer connections SPST swtiches vs. DPDT). With the current requirements of large scale and how much more track costs than wire, the economical advantages are not so great it seems.
Greg
Good Morning My World Of Railroaders, train Engineer, I actually brought one TE it worked for a while with a smaller track while I was building my layout, for some reason I cannot get it to work with Aristo-Craft 7000 transformer, (I have 3 of these) I Can get it to work with a Bachmann starter set transformer but it does have enough power for aristo-craft motor power. Had a small incident, train was getting ready to run into something (can’t remember actually what it was) However the only thing I could do quickly was to slide to power button on the back of the receiver, ever since then it doesn’t work anymore. I’ve try everything. and checked the fuses. With the size of the new track plan, I would need several TE receivers, which would be very costly. DC Analog for me Double insulted, when I throw that toggle switch to off, I know that the power to track block is OFF. I wish I actually had space in my house for N or HO but unfortunately I don’t, G (large Scale) is very expensive Hobby. But The older you are the more Expensive your TOYS are. I truly like Large Scale with the exception of the Size you really are building a real miniature railroad in your yard, and you have to really think things though, Does my track plan make sense or does it look stupid, why do I have a trestle, what’s the purpose or is because I just want a trestle there. I went to my local area Garden Railroad Society tour with 10 layouts open to the public, I really wasn’t impressed this year with the layouts, they were kind of stupid but it’s their R.R, NO PUND INTENDED FOR ANYONE or trying to upset anyone this is just what I Think. Thank you all for your help, I’m sure there more down the road.
The quality level (or lack of quality) on Aristo slide switches is legendary. They are cheap, and often contaminated with junk during assembly… They go bad with regularity.
The 7000 is 60 va total, with supposedly 3 amps at 21 volts and 12v ac at 1 amp…
Weird that it does not power your TE, turn the knob all the way up and see what happens.
Of course you are making sure you don’t have reverse polarity to the TE, and you are using the DC output.
Greg
Since touching the slide switch, does the Bachmann power unit with the TE still work or nothing works?
Since a slide switch was mentioned I assume the 27 mhz TE system, the black hand held transmitter.
If power is hooked in reversed, a diode tries to protect you, but will short out and need replacing.
This diode is across the input power leads. I have repaired several of these receivers for club members with this issue.
But if the receiver works with the Bachmann power unit, this is not the issue here, so what is the Crest 7000? If this is an A/C output, it will not work, and if under 14 volts DC, it will not work.
Dan, read my post immediately above yours, which give specs of the 7000 and also cautions about the ac output.
He also explicitly says that they work with the Bachmann power supplies.
Always good to read the entire thread, but especially the last post 
Greg
TE is now not working at all. The Aristro-Craft “G”Gauge Power, 3 Amps rated, Train Pack 7000 is very powerful DC transformer I really like it I actually have four them. When I first got TE all I had was the Bachman transformer. My First Engine Aristocraft ATSF Santa Fe Lil 'Critter Diesel Switcher. After purchasing the Critter I did notice wasn’t very fast, then the 7000 came, at first I blow the fuse and replaced it, then came my first Aristo Craft FA & FB unit, TE would not work aristo craft but for Bachmann and Critter would still run but not on the 7000. The accident happen hit the switch on back of the receiver and never worked again since.
So, maybe the diode Dan is referring to is blown out… (if it is connected the way Dan describes, it would have to be shorted to cause this)
Jim, not to burst your balloon, but 3 amps is not “very powerful”, in fact it is barely adequate for one loco up a steep grade. I run 10 amps, and I have a train that pulls 9.97 amps on my ammeter. “very powerful” would be a 25 amp Bridgeworks.
Speed is not through current, but given adequate amperage, speed is all about voltage.
Should not be hard to repair the switch and/or diode on your TE. Something does not make sense that the TE does not work at all on the 7000…
Blowing a fuse on a critter seems to indicate you have some other problems.
How did you ensure you had the right power polarity connecting the 7000 to your TE?
Greg