I’m planning to use slide cover glass on at least some of my buildings. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to cut this stuff? It’s much too fragile for a traditional glass cutter.
Can you score with a scribe and snap?
If you can’t see it from the back side or can build it into a sandwiched pocket in the middle of the wall so it doesn’t show…don’t?
The cover glass or the slide itself? Cover glasses are so fine and easy to break, I think I’d go for the slide itself.
It’s the cover glass, and yeah, it’s incredibly thin.
Why do you want such thin glass? Is this going to be inside?
Nope, not inside. Just small panes on structures that won’t be handled much, so there’s not much chance of damage. Since I can’t get any plastic thin enough that’s UV-proof, I have to use glass.
I tried 1/16" acrylic in the windows of my first building, and it’s ok but won’t do for some applications I have in mind.
Isn’t Lexan UV proof? It comes pretty thin.
I’m not sure how to cut those slide covers. Clamp between wood and scribe ans snap?
Some of my buildings have 1/4" acrylic windows…and you really can’t tell how thick they are.
Having spent much time in my previous career peering at tiny things, you’ll have a heck of a time trying to make clean cuts on cover slips. I’d go with lexan. You can get very thin lexan window material (cuts with scissors) from Colorado Models - http://coloradomodel.com/paypalcart2.htm (all the way at the bottom of the page)
-Brian
Ray:
Polycarbonate (Lexan and Makrolon are a couple of trade names) is UV resistant. It’s even used in prototypes where vandals throw rocks at the commuter trains for sport. It is as clear as glass and has the advantages of being unbreakable and very easy to work. Just scribe and break.
It’s available in .005" and .010" thicknesses. In 1:20.3, these scale to 0.10" and 0.20", just perfect for window glass.
I got a roll of the 0.010" thick stuff with protector sheets on both sides from TAP Plastics for about $6: This is a lifetime supply, even if I decide to model the Crystal Cathedral!
I attach it with the clear adhesive the airplane modelers use for canopies. This stuff even works on wood and leaves a really clear join that almost completely disappears. Great looking windows, with no broken glass in the yard.
I think San Diego Plastics carries it.
Happy RRing,
Jerry
It’s weird, when I asked about polycarbonate at TAP plastics and Ridout Plastic, both said it was not UV proof and recommended acrylic instead. Yet I’ve heard from others here that it’s fine outdoors, and I know that lexan is routinely used outdoors in place of glass. Maybe the sales people I spoke to at those plastics dealers didn’t know their stuff – wouldn’t be the first time.
Anyway, I’ve ordered some from the link that Brian posted.
Ray:
There are numerous grades of polycarbonate. The basic stuff is UV resistant. That means it will eventually yellow, dependent on amount of exposure and time. The ‘window’ grade stuff is usually special order, but is truly UV proof. The difference is covered by the terms “resistant” versus “proof.” In order to avoid complaints, some suppliers are reluctant to make this distinction.
In my experience with industrial applications and somewhat more limited modeling applications, the UV resistant polycarbonates are about equivalent to the acrylics in terms of usable life for windows. The primary differences are in the available thicknesses (acrylics=thicker; polycarbonates=thinner) and the difficulty in working. I’ve had some polycarbonate windows outdoors for ~5 years now and they clean up very well, with no noticeable yellowing. I am fully prepared to replace the windows should it ever become necessary. I still think it is better than real glass, but other’s mileage may vary 
Happy RRing,
Jerry
Thanks Jerry, that clears things up a bit. (Uh, no pun intended!)
As for cutting slide cover glass, a friend of mine used that for the windows in his On2 SR&RL coachses and combine. He cut the slide cover glass on a machine surface plate (real flat), scribed it with a tungston from a tig welder, and gingerly snapped it across a piece of .020 piano wire.
For what that’s worth.
Bob