How does every body cut strips in plastic accurately ? I am cutting 1-3mm sheet. Measuring and marking does not work well for me. I mark and use a straight edge and sharp utility knife to cut it. I could use my table saw but that wastes a lot when I am cutting 1/4" strips. I have an idea and am going to make something today and will share it later, just looking to see what every body else uses.
Mark,
I have used this to accurately score repetitive cuts in styrene
AL P.
That looks like a good option. I am one of those guys that will build or fix something instead of buy/higher it done. So off to the shop I go. 
I get my 1/4 strips from Evergreen or Plastruct already cut.
Just offering an option… 
I have cut accurately down to 1/8 or less using .40 styrene. But for very thin strips I also buy pre-cut. It can be pricey but otherwise it’s a lot of frustration for me. IIRC Plastruct can be ordered in bulk directly from the manufacturer. That’s a pretty cost effective means of supply.
I use a CNC router. uniform parts with nice square edges every time! 
The thinnest raw sheet plastic I’ve cut is .8mm but I’ve taken 2mm down to .5mm for angles, channels etc.
Looking at your photo Dan, is double-sided “painters tape” a thing? If so, it’s probably called something different…
Haha. sort of. I apply painters tape to the bed and the bottom of the workpiece, super glue to the painters tape and press the workpiece to it. Works great for holding lightweight stock when you’d like to be able to cut close to the edge. Removes cleanly. Well, actually not so clean when you set the depth a bit low and chew into the first layer of tape as shown in the pic I posted 
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Great idea, and cheap. I just remembered that I got some of this last year for holding down small stock (to a feeder board) while planing, but I never got around to trying that. Pricey, and I’m not sure how well it holds to rough wood. But it might work with fixed plastics on a CNC bed. I’ve got a tiny CNC that I need to try out, so this stuff or your method should work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NVLTYXB?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2
Mark,
Not sure how big a piece of sheet you are working with ( hehe a piece of sheet with Spanish accent). However if you are doing nominal thickness like 1/4" width and so forth. I use steel machinist blocks or kinda like aluminum set up blocks for woodworking. 15 PCS Setup Blocks for Woodworking, Precision Aluminum Height Gauges for Router and Table Saw, Set Up Blocks for Woodworking Tools - Amazon.com
I take a 4’ aluminum level then clamp it to the edge on a flat (CLEAN) work bench. Then take your sheet of 1mm and square it up to the level then tape down both sides of the pvc board to lightly hold it.
Then take your machinist square of choice thickness, put it tight to the level and with the knife of choice make your initial first cut holding the blade tight to the machinist block and slide the block with your other hand while moving with the knife. I prefer lightly and about 2 or 3 passes for a clean cut.
A good utility knife with a clean, quality blade works well for me as especially one that had a flat 45 case, you can rest the utility knife case on top of the block then. I like to draw a line with a pencil using that set up first. Then I can always check it before cutting and while I’m cutting I have reference.
It took me a couple of years worth of measuring and drawing out all by hand before I decided to come up with an easier way cause I’m getting old and just a stupid mechanic.
BTW …from my experience don’t try the 1mm sheet on the table saw …the 3mm you can get away with but I still don’t like it 5mm or 1/4" thick is about as low as I go on the table saw these days. I will also tell you that a 1mm sheet kick back on the table saw won’t hurt anything but it sure will scare the “sheet” outta you!!
@Rooster that looks like a good way to cut strips, I only cut 1/4” with a table saw or miter saw. The rest with a utility knife, I have cut 1/8-3/16” on my band saw when I needed shapes.
This is what I came up with, the straight edge is raised up to clear the plastic and the fence is adjustable. Works better then marking and cutting.
Pretty much the same idea Mark. However the only thing is I didn’t like that way is the sheet sometimes tended to bow up just a little while cutting. That is why I use the block to slide it flat first while cutting. Now mind you I was cutting 3’ lengths. I do cut the 3mm and above on the 12" compound miter all the time though.
I’m sure that works for rigid material but not economical for what I do as I would need to lay down a bunch of strips. The styrene and pvc 5mm or less tends to bow if not fully affixed. I use the 3" wide blue tape most.