Large Scale Central

Cutting lumber to scale sizes

General Discussion
#1

I was looking at a pile of off cuts from various projects, some maple, some pine and some unknown all at least 3/4" thick. As I was studying it in preperation of cutting some somewhat scale 2x4 and 4x4 size pieces.

Example: I am wondering if I take a 3/4" x5" piece of wood, do I cut the veneer like 1/8" pieces off the 5" tall side first or do you take the 3/4" side through the table cutting the 1/8" pieces first or cutting the 1/4" pieces?

Or does it really matter much or at all? maybe I am overthinking something and I should just go make some sawdust. JUst trying to get the most efficent use from all this scrap wood pieces. After I am done I will buy a center beam car and fill it with my own lumber. Or build something. not sure what but I need to do something with this pile of wood taking up space in my garage. Thanks for any and all ideas.

#2

Cut lengthwise with the grain to make scale lumber, go make sawdust. I buy scale lumber for the wife’s projects, as I don’t have the patience to cut long straight scale pieces.

#3

Try here Pete http://www.gscalejunkie.com/Articles/MillingScaleLumberRev-01.pdf

#4

I usually rip to the larger dimension first, then to the smaller dimension. Even with my hobby saw, a large percentage of the wood ends up as dust.

#5

Thanks Bob, I think you had shown that to me once before and that was what I was looking for.

David thanks for your help too, that is the thoughts I had but was wondering if I was right.

#6

Pete, I will let you in on a secret. I use drill bits to set the spacing between the fence and the blade when I rip my scale lumber. Since my set of drill bits are in 1/32nd increments, I actually rip 1:32nd scale lumber, to build 1:24th scale building out of. It seams to work fine for me.

Also, since the curf of my saw blade is about 1/16th of an inch. When I rip small scale lumber, about half of my wood ends up as dust.

#7

A must have to do small lumber…

Zero clearance insert !

#8

Oh yes, I forgot about that. I make mine out of plexiglass.

#9

Damn Maynard…I can’t afford 1/2 inch plexiglass. When did you win the lottery?

#10

Huh? What?

I replaced the metal plate that partially covers the blade opening with some regular 1/8th plexi, cut to fit the entire opening, and drilled and countersunk for the flathead screws that held the metal plate in. Then I turned on the saw and slowly raised the blade into the plexi to cut the slot into it.

If I had won the lottery, I would be personally visiting Greg and Berry, so that I could get a business of making drive mechanisms started.

#11

David, cut lengthwise first. It makes a lot easier when coming back to cut to scale. When I cut lap siding, I cut the 1/4" width the length of the board, then come back on my band saw and tilt it to make the siding.

#12

My throat plate is 1/2 inch thick Dave. I use 1/2" MDF to make my throat plates out of. Inexpensive, stable, and disposable when they get worn out.

#13

I used my band saw.

#14

The zero plate is essential for safe cutting.

When ripping I cut the 1x5 wood to 4’ long to make it easier to work with. I then set the fence to 1/2 inch and rip away then pick up the 1/2x 3/4 pieces then turn each one to cut a 1/2x 1/2. It also gives me a roughly 1/2x1/8 pieces.

It is also handy to leave some pieces 1/2x 3/4 and be sure to cut some that are 1/8x 3/4 which are perfect for planking buildings.

I have used these sizes to build most everything.

#15

Ron Hill said:

David, cut lengthwise first. It makes a lot easier when coming back to cut to scale. When I cut lap siding, I cut the 1/4" width the length of the board, then come back on my band saw and tilt it to make the siding.

Yea. I cut (rip) the boards to size lengthwise, larger dimension first, smaller dimension second. Usually with 12 inch long boards. I even made some 1/64th square lumber for an HO project of mine. Most of that blank ended up in my dust collector. So ya lost me with the reason why you said what you said.