It’s been awhile since I’ve been on this site!!
I was told that on a curve the track should not be level but rather raised a little on the outside to avoid derailments. If this is true what is an appropriate level. I have sometimes had to shim the outside rail and it does seem to help.
Thanks,
Richard
I’m not super experienced so take what I saw with a grain of salt, but I once read on a garden railway blog/guide site written by George Schreyer that most garden railway curves are so tight that keeping them perfectly level is better.
In my railroad I do have the outer rail raised a tiny bit (I don’t have the exact level but it’s raised a little bit) and I think it helps? I have some of the sharpest curves but then again I pretty much never run anything longer than a 40’ box car.
I guess it depends on what curves you have and what you run but I’m not sure. Hopefully someone else can give a better answer
Richard,
It’s called super elevation. I actually did it on my railroad when building the roadbed. I elevated about 1/16" with the outside support of the ladder. It does work and I do think it helps however I run very heavy long cars (mainly Amtrash) at Lionel speed around and round and round.
I’d say, don’t bother with the super elevation just make sure your curves are level unless you are running high speed passenger like Rooster does.
Not necessary on a garden RR unless you plan to operate at warp speed.
That’s what I was trying to tell him guys but I also tried to answer the question he asked.
OK, I admit it, I was going to make a comment about needing to define “warp,” since Rooster chimed in.
But, I decided not to.
Warp speed does not equal warped speed.
Just sayin’
Guys;
Way-way back in the day I was a warper in a weaving mill. I suppose my warp making machine could pull the upholstery yarn on at about 50 yards per minute, which is much more doable than the Star Trek measurement!
Best, David Meashey
(Oh, and we beamed off (the warp onto a weaver’s beam) instead of beaming up!)
All of you are too funny…thanks for the humor.
I’m not going to concern myself too much about the warp capabilities of my engines. However, I do regret not upgrading my hip replacement this last June with adding the USB charge ports to my new left hip.
All the best!
Richard
but, but…
that is so yesteryear.
a friend of mine got a new “ear” implanted into the bone.
for adjusting and recharging he got a phone sized thing, that has a cable with a magnet on the end.
he puts the magnet to the point, where the audiophone is. the magnet sticks there.
and the commandos for adjusting and the recharging pass throug the skin to the receiver of the implant.
looks, like step by step we will turn into cyborgs.
just to not forget the theme of the thread:
i would be cautious to super-elevate the outer rail.
that would cause more danger, that a long train is drawn by a loco to topple to the inside of the curve.
They are already obsolete 
I thought Richard was kidding, but…???
OK, so I want my new hip joint to include a hydraulic actuator that cushions my steps and continually feeds a fluid motor that drives the generator for… damn, I almost had it, but with my poor memory…
Dave I found I could get even more speed out of my garden engine if I replaced the engineer with another figurine. No special gearing or voltage changes required.
Richard, you might want to re-think the super-elevation on the curve if you use this technique, though. It will automatically run your loco in ”Top Gear”. 
Cliff, I am happy to send the figurine so you can test your trestles in real world conditions.
I want one, where did you find a Stig, or a racer I can make a Stig!
Bill;
It is not supposed to run at more than 9.5 volts DC. but I’ve never had enough straight track to apply that much voltage!
Regards, David Meashey
