I presume we have the G scale coupler from Kadee ie #830 because it fits well with what USA Trains and Aristo were making. And I presume the #1 scale coupler is 1:32 so we have the #820 as an example. I have a #1 on the bench and it fits the front of my Hudson very well… so here’s the question… The 830 is a lot more than 10% bigger than the 830 according to my eye so if all the couplers are the same on my rolling stock would not the #1 scale couplers be a lot closer to the scale of the cars than the 830s? Mind you I’m not a rivet counter or anything…just wondering.
Larry, for me, the G-scale coupler is the ones I use, because they are more forgiving on uneven trackwork… It may be larger than scale 1/29th, but it has more connecting area to hold a train together… They also give a bigger target to get a screw driver into to make an uncoupling… The #1 scale couplers look wonderful, but unless one has perfectly level trackwork, a slight dip might mean an unwanted uncoupling… Our Railroad club is a modular club, and some of the modules are at or over 20 years old… they are showing their age, and the track is not level… there are times, when the #1 scale couplers disconnect on the club layout, depending on the type car, length, etc, etc…
Hey Larry,
I have to agree with Andy. I model both 1/29 and 1:20.3 and I use Kadee 830’s on everything. The #1 look more to scale, but I want my stuff to stay together no matter who’s railroad I run on.
Chuck
Hadn’t thought of the accidental uncoupling issue… Hhmmmm
I haven’t had any problem with 820’s coming uncoupled from 830’s… yet. It’s been 8 years or so.
Steve??? I’m talking about my using G-scale sized couplers versus #1 scale couplers… I don’t mix the two… My observations of the #1 scale couplers are from other club members using them… If one mixes the two style couplers, there is still more allowable connecting area, because of the size of the G-scale couplers…
Andy, I think that we are talking about the same thing. The Kadee 830 is scaled for the !:22.5 G scale stuff like the Bachmann Bugmauler. The Kadee 820 is scaled for 1:32 stuff, but scales well for 1:29, as well.
I have never had a problem with an 820 coming uncoupled from an 830. I generally use the 830 because USAT is already drilled for it, but have probably 10-15 cars that see frequent service that have 820’s. I bought them to see if they would work, and they do.
For my eye, though, they are a bit small, probably because I was raised on Lionel, with their giant sized couplers. First learned, best retained, as they say.
As Kadee lists them I believe it’s Gauge #1 or G-scale? I prefer the G scale as I think they look better but are not prototypical for the application. Larry …my opinion is and always has been what looks right too the the eye. Not how it scales out?
Well I do like the 830 and as was said the USA stuff is pre-set to take 830s. I’ll fiddle with the front coupler on the Hudson to see what I can come up with.
The #1 are closer to scale for 1:29, but you need better trackwork to keep the couplers from “overriding” each other.
In very hot climates, some people were able to break the #1 couplers, so you can get the #1’s in metal (the knuckle). The “G” scale ones, having more “meat” never had this issue, and the new “AAR” design is even stronger.
I use the “G” scale because they fit my 1:29 without shimming and they are more forgiving of my grade “transitions” and long cars with body mounts.
Regards, Greg
Hi Larry,
Just a different opinion.
I run the #1 scale couplers on all engines and cars. All couplers are set for 24 inches to center line above railhead.
I run nothing but 1:20.3 scale locomotives and cars with semi scale wheels. Admittedly mostly short trains 3-6 cars and caboose. I have been doing this for 14 years with never a failure of a coupler that was the couplers fault.
I use the #1 because it is spot on, in 1:20 scale, for a 3/4 size coupler that was used on most western narrow gauge railroads (excluding Colorado) Though my railroad is on a raised table top, due to weather conditions, the track stays anything but square and level.
I consider it far more important that the coupler center lines on all cars and engines are perfectly aligned and that the couplers have free range of motion side to side as well as in and out.
If you care to look at the attached film clip link you will see that the LGB Mallet has a Talgo mounted KD #830. All 14 cars and the caboose have body mounted KD #1 couplers. No way to actually prove it other than my word but we had “0” coupler problems in nearly 2 hours of operation. Even when we put the Mogul on the tail as a pusher. If you watch closly you can see the engines and cars riding up and down and twisting side to side. Also observe all the whoop-te-dooos in the track
Good luck with your decision
It’s a tough one to make
Rick
I use Bachmann couplers and after I modify them I never have uncoupling issues and they cost me nothing.
I install #1s on my lead locos, for photo ops, then 789s etc on the rest.
I have had friends bring all 820s trains over and they ran fine.