I am trying to find out what is the correct thinners for Testors/Floquil Railroad Colors paint. I have 2 1 oz jars that I bought in 2011. I am based in the UK so there may be some need to translate the terms used for different types of thinners. I have 3 types available to me - Cellulose, White Spirit based and Isopropyl alcohol. These terms might be different in th US. Any ideas? Hopfully a picture of the paint jar I have attached will show to identify the product. Max
Floquil is a solvent based paint, so I would think white spirit would work. Are you trying to brush paint or airbrush?
Btw, that line of paint has been discontinued a few years ago so if your looking for replacement good luck.
Found on the web:
- If you have solvent based Floquil paints - Use lacquer thinner(you can get it at Home Depot or even Walmart).
- If you are using acrylic Floquil Scale paint, use water(I use distilled water).
I remember this paint, but used it before sold to Testors (and then rust-o-leum) …
how about pictures of the text on the bottle, might give better clues
Greg
Thanks for the info. I have the required stock - 2 x 1 oz jars to do a piece the size of an AMS J&S car (Rio Grande models Pagosa combine kit on AMS base). Based on what you say I should be airbrushing using a fast drying enamel thinners, in my case made by a company called Phoenix Precision Paints over here. They specialize in UK railway model finishes. Max
Greg Elmassian said:
Found on the web:
- If you have solvent based Floquil paints - Use lacquer thinner(you can get it at Home Depot or even Walmart).
- If you are using acrylic Floquil Scale paint, use water(I use distilled water).
I remember this paint, but used it before sold to Testors (and then rust-o-leum) …
how about pictures of the text on the bottle, might give better clues
Greg
Greg, I’m based in the UK so Home Depot (UK equiv’ B&Q) and Walmart (UK equiv’ Tesco) are a bit far to go and “lacquer thinner” does not compute this side of the pond. As mentioned in my post the stuff I have has the Testors imprint along with Floquil’s. I have no idea of its base but I think I smell a hint of white spirit (another language conversion requirement (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)) But thanks anyway. Max
Yes, I realized that, but it was part of the quote.
If you smell solvent, then I would wager you do NOT have the acrylic based paint. Lacquer Thinner is a very refined and “Strong” version of paint thinner.
Here’s a link giving it a frame of reference in the UK: http://www.ehow.co.uk/facts_6325836_difference-paint-thinner-lacquer-thinner.html
And here is the typical ingredients of (hobby) lacquer thinner: xylene or toluene-based general purpose solvent
But further research usually indicates the generic lacquer thinner would be identified as cellulose thinner in the UK.
Hope this helps (google is your friend also, besides me!)
Greg
Max
That is from the old Floquil paint line (the good stuff). It is not an oil base paint it is a nitro-cellulose lacquer. You will need lacquer thinner to cut it down. Do not use enamel reducer, turpentine, mineral spirits, generic paint thinner or any of the current hobby thinners as they will react and turn it to goo. I used the Automotive Dupont NC paints on hotrods and Floquil on HO trains 30 years ago. Great stuff but it is the enemy of all living things thus the reason the EPA drove Floquil out of business.
Testors (the ones in the square bottles), Pactra and Humbrol are all oil based enamel. You can thin them with enamel reducer, mineral spirits or generic paint thinner from the DIY store. Don’t use alcohol it has water in it. The new Testors Model Masters (in the round jars) are water based.
If you are not to stuck on using the Floquil I recommend Valejo or Tamiya water based acrylic enamels. Both companies products will work with a brush or air-brush, both have an extensive line of colors, both are designed for model builders not arts and crafts grannies. Since you are in the UK you might want to consider Games Workshop. They are the best, high quality but high priced. < (It kills me to recommend GW because they are the most greedy conniving gits ever-but give the devil his due)
If you are painting rolling stock or structures I suggest rattle can spray paint as your base. Most of us use Krylon or Rustoleum with great success. After you get the base color on use the hobby paints for details, aging and weathering.
If you are still stuck on FLoquil here is what you need.
Use Dupont 3608S(fast dry) for a flat finish or Dupont 3602S (slow dry) for a glossy finish. You can get these at auto paint suppliers. A quart will reduce that bottle ten times over with plenty left for clean up. If you cannot find it retail try sweet talking your local body shop into selling you a little.
In use it will attack bare styrene. It will orange peel and / or lift enamel primers and paints that are not completely cured (about two weeks drying time). It is best used on brass. Start with a light coat and let that dry for several hours in the sun. Then come back adding light coats until you get coverage.
I learned all of this by experience…it was a costly lesson. Unfortunately I had to repeat it several times before I got it through my thick skull. Summary: Lacquer dissolves plastic, other coatings and brain cells!!! I hope you are a faster study than me but you know what they say… You are not truly a “Model Railroader” until you have screwed up and totally destroyed at least one very expensive model.
Notice that warning on the label. No Joke on this one it is an outdoor toy.
That’s 2 votes for lacquer thinner…
The reason I came on here was in hope of getting the definitive version of what I need with regards to mixing this specific product. I had Googled prior to starting post and come up with the same sources. The problem was there was a load of conjecture there and a lack of cross over in terminology between US and UK thinning products. I don’t like to make assumptions.
I had worked out lacquer thinner and cellulose might be similar/one of the same as their principle ingredient is Toluene. However, I was not sure how Xylene might affect the mix. I also realized the picture is further clouded by the genesis of the “Floquil” product, down to the EPA and Testors efforts. I had hoped my product description would have nailed it down to a specific.
No problem with access to exotic, and otherwise, chemicals and their properties in conjunction with plastics, resins, etc’. I’ve been a model builder for 30 years and have a good local specialist supplier, garnered from my days producing my own pre-painted model range for sale.
Still confused here. I got two votes for cellulose base, two (one from UK) for a white spirit base. Looks like I’m going to have to do a test piece.
If you wish take a look here, where I have managed to post pictures of the paint bottle https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/correct-thinners-for-testors-floquil-paint.309426/#post-483875
You have given me a great idea. I go down to the paint specialist, they do a colour analysis of one of the now spare d&rgw car sides ( I forgot they did that for me in the past). They produce 1 x rattle can of gloss cellulose 1 pack paint in the exact colour I need. Gets rid of the need to gloss coat prior to decal application (one less process to risk fouling things up). Problem solved. Thanks for getting my mind in gear lads. Max
Glad you got a line on something Max. Please come share your project when complete.
Max Winter said:
I have 2 1 oz jars that I bought in 2011.
None of the info listed matters not if it wasn’t stored properly for the past 6 + yrs
The white spirits guys clearly did not do any research on the equivalent of lacquer thinner, all they apparently heard was “thinner”
Also, often hobbyist thinners had Xylene or Toulene in them… REAL lacquer thinner does not. I thought I made this distinction before.
I also have USED Floquil paints, from the first year they existed. (Although I have not used the acrylic version, did not want to)… I had an airbrush and thinned and cleaned with regular generic lacquer thinner.
Greg
Rooster - The paint’s just fine, stored in cool dry place, upright and never opened till now. I’ve got stuff 30 years old that works just fine, tins & cans (cans you lay down, like a fine wine or Champagne).
Interesting, I assumed this Testors/Floquil stuff would need thinning, given instructions on label. Whisked it up with my trusty Badger stirrer thingy and it turns out it is nicely thinned and will go as is through my, again, trusty old Badger cheepie (other more sophisticated airbrushes are available (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)) spray gun. Made myself a nice colour template for the local auto paint specialist to work from. Will get 500 ml rattle can gloss made up. Kills 2 birds - no need to gloss coat before decals one less process to screw up.
You are right Greg, it don’t like white spirit based thinners. On clean up I thought I’d try and experiment, drop the Badger’s paint jar in some white spirit and yes it cleans the paint out but all of a sudden a “gel” forms in the cleaning agent. I wonder what the chemical process is that is going on here ? Switch to cellulose thinners fixes the problem.
Boomer - Thanks again for getting my brain in gear on this one. Will let you know how it turns out. Progress so far on this thread https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/and-so-we-begin-pagosa-combine.309138/ on A.N.Other forum. There is a lot of inspiration from other people’s efforts with similar projects in this one (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif).
P.S. Got a couple of spare 1 oz jars (1 slightly used) of Testors/Floquil Pullman Green. To my eyes a perfect match to the colour on the AMS D&RGW/C&S J&S cars. Problem is I think the shipping costs and regulations might make them a little unattractive (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)