I am absolutely new to the G or large scale scene, however I am very interested in getting started in planning and building my first large scale layout ! However I am very confused at the different scales associated with G or large scale RR, such as the fact that Aristocraft and USA trains are listed as 1:29 scale, Bachman is listed as 1:22.5 scale, LGB is listed as #1 scale and there is also a 1:32 scale and several others. Apparentally the Aristocraft and USA trains will use one anothers track, ets., but Bachman, LGB and others will not interchange with Aristocraft or USA trains track, etc or vice versa. I am thinking that if I commit to a large scale layout that I would be better off going with the Aristocraft and USA trains format as they will interchange with oneanother and they have a large selection of loco’s, rolling stock, etc. All this is very confusing to me as I have previously modeled in N, HO, and 0 scales. I need Help in this matter. (HELP!)
Dick,
in reality there is no confusion. Aristocraft and USA Trains model American ‘standard’ gauge in 1/29 scale. All ‘G’ ‘scale’ trains operate on the same 45mm (Gauge 1) track. The actual scale is determined by the track ‘gauge’. Aristo/USA Trains use an 'incorrect scale (1/29) in the true sense of the word. The actual scale for standard gauge (Gauge 1) is 1/32 scale. 1/32 scale is used by most European gauge 1 modellers, Lionel and Mikes Train House (MTH) and lately by Accucraft for some items. The British also have a 10mm scale (around 1/30 scale). Just prior to insolvency, LGB were also bringing out an excellent range of approximately 1/29 scale rolling stock.
For narrow-gauge, then the scales become quite diverse, ranging from 16mm (around 1/19 scale), through to 1/20.3 (Bachmann, Accucraft, American Model Supplies AMS), 1/22.5 scale (Bachmann 'Big Hauler' range, LGB) and 1/24 scale (USA Trains 'woodside'/Work Series boxcars and Aristocraft/Delton range of narrow-gauge items). There is also a diverse 7/8" scale, which is 1/13.8 scale running on 45mm tack gauge.
1/20.3 scale is the correct gauge for 3 foot gauge as modelled by many narrow-gauge modellers, running on 45mm track. 1/22.5 scale is the one metre gauge from Europe and 1/24 scale is correct for 3 foot 6 inch gauge. The scales/gauge are a little confusing, but easy to live with.
As a newcomer to the hobby, You would be advised to stick with one scale/gauge combination. Your choice would be American 'standard' gauge (1/29 or 1/32 scale) running on 45mm track or narrow-gauge (1/20.3, 1/22.5 or 1/24 scale) running on 45mm track. The 'gauge' decided on is dependent on how 'scale' accurate you wish to be.
The hook and loop coupler as used by LGB, is considered the 'standard' coupler in the hobby, although the standard couplers supplied by the many manufacturers, do not necessarily work with eack other. Kadee couplers are generally becoming the 'accepted' coupler in both 1/29 scale and 1/20.3 scale, with the Accucraft knuckle coupler rapidly gaining acceptance in 1/20.3 scale.
Which road you follow basically is determined by your chosen track gauge. If you stick to one scale for the chosen gauge, then the items purchased should complement each other.Tim’s post is very true. I will also suggest that the first thing is to decide what you really like in the real world. If it’s standard gauge from the 50’s then I would recommend a combination of Aristocraft and USAT. You could go with the slightly smaller 1:32 MTH stuff but your selection would be smaller. If you like narrow gauge there are 2 popular ways to go. The fastest growing segment here is 1.20.3 (F scale). This is the new Bachman stuff and Accucraft narrow gauge products. These cars and locomotives are large and require more room than the slightly smaller, more compact 1:22.5 (LGB scale) products. If you have a small area and tight curves then 1:22.5 is the way to go. There are a lot of nice models being built in all the above scales so it’s what meets your needs and desires. Until you are comfortable with the different scales I would definitely recommend that you do not mix them. Later you will learn what can be up sized or down sized.
In the beginning I would also suggest that you stay away from the niche scales (G15, 16mm, and 7/8ths) until you understand them and feel the desire draw you that direction. They tend to be highly specialized and require that almost everything be scratch built.
I agree with Warren.
The first thing to decide is what sort of trains would you like.
Basically you have two choices. Mainline or narrow gauge.
Then you have a better idea which way to go.
Warren Mumpower said:I am not speaking for anything else other than 16mm scale here, y'unnerstan'? But here in UK, and in a few other countries, 16mm is NOT a 'niche' scale, but THE scale.
In the beginning I would also suggest that you stay away from the niche scales...16mm...They tend to be highly specialized and require that almost everything be scratch built.
Far from ‘almost everything [needs to be] scratch-built’, there are five major manufacturers, Roundhouse, Accucraft, Pearse, Argyle Locomotive Works and Regner, building a selection of well-over fifty model locomotives in live steam and electric power, and over forty makers of wagons and accessories to match. This does not take into account the many small-size builders of bespoke models, like Peter Angus and John Campbell with their Garratts and other models.
The large-scale show in mid-Wales in early september will attract upwards of ten thousand people over the week-end, and is expected to have over 200 stalls. There are, fer’instance, at least twenty makers of suitable buildings and structures in this scale.
There is a down-side to all this activity though - 90% of all 16mm scale modelling replicates the teeny narrow gauge trains of Wales and India, although the massive Beyer-Garratt by Accucraft, of which there are three running in North Wales, are actually South African - AND run on two-foot gauge…
Much of the 16mm/1:19th scale trackwork here in UK is 32mm, or 0 gauge, which is how modelling these quaint and beautiful lilttle lines all started in the late 1960’s, and replicates the original two-foot Welsh gauge quarry and slate-works lines.
There is an association - the 16mm Scale Modelling Association, with around 2500 members and an excellent magazine, and a good few stores here in UK that cater to the 16mm fans with a HUGE range of stuff - Garden Railway Specialists and Brandbright to name but two of the more well-known. In fact, GRS are manufacturers in their own right with over 500 different items of rolling stock alone, as well as a vast range of buildings and structures.
Sorry, rant over…I’ll go back to sleep now.
tac
Terry,
Thank you for an insightful comment.
BTW, I will be at the Welsh show with Brandbright.
I will be showing a battery R/C Baguley Drewry fitted with head and tailights made for me by Tootle Engineering and featuring the new Phoenix P5 + P5T sound system.
If you are going as well please stop by the Brandbright display and say hello.
Tony, Terry , Warren and Tim
Thanks for the info, Since my father and uncle worked on the Santa Fe RR from 1939 to 1960 out of Emporia, Ks since Emporia at that time was a middle division exchange point, I am planning on modeling the Emporia yards and route from Emporia to Topeka, Kansas City and a couple of the short lines from Emporia to Americus , Olpe and Madison. The era will be from the early to late 1950’s when the Santa Fe was still using steam and early diesel loco’s, such as Pacific, Mikado and Northern steam power and ALCO RS-3, ALCO PA’S, EMD GP9’S, F-3’S and ALCO S-4 switchers diesel power. The Santa Fe also used a smaller steam loco than the Pacific on their short line runs, but I need to research this a little more as I don’t know what class steam loco these were, however their is one on display in one of our local parks and I will take a picture of it and post it on this site, maybe someone can identify this loco and class.
Since I am planning on modeling an American RR in the 1950’s I belive I would be best served sticking to Aristocraft and USA trains equipment .
Again thanks so much for the advice and help. This is a great sight, the best I have found so far.
TonyWalsham said:
Terry, Thank you for an insightful comment.BTW, I will be at the Welsh show with Brandbright.
I will be showing a battery R/C Baguley Drewry fitted with head and tailights made for me by Tootle Engineering and featuring the new Phoenix P5 + P5T sound system.
If you are going as well please stop by the Brandbright display and say hello.
Dear Mr Walsham - if you are there in person I will be sure to make time to go see you. I can easily be recognised by the bright yellow beak on my stuffed vulture that accompanies me most everywhere I go. He looks out of my backpack, or over my shoulder, as the whim takes him…
As for the B-D, I have two of those excellent little locos, but with LGB sound in them. Unless I come up lucky on the lottery I am distinctly averse to spending $1000 on a teeny loco like that.
See you there!
Iechyd dda!
tac
Dick said:Now that's going to be a very impressive layout...the yards at Emporia would be over 400 feet long by themselves, and the trackage from Kansas City to Emporia almost 3.5 real miles.
Tony, Terry , Warren and Tim...I am planning on modeling the Emporia yards and route from Emporia to Topeka, Kansas City and a couple of the short lines from Emporia to Americus , Olpe and Madison.
You must have a hell of a big backyard. 
But then, I guess, so do most Americans…[sigh]
Best wishes and welcome to the forum.
tac & ig
Dick said:
Tony, Terry , Warren and TimThanks for the info, Since my father and uncle worked on the Santa Fe RR from 1939 to 1960 out of Emporia, Ks since Emporia at that time was a middle division exchange point, I am planning on modeling the Emporia yards and route from Emporia to Topeka, Kansas City and a couple of the short lines from Emporia to Americus , Olpe and Madison. The era will be from the early to late 1950’s when the Santa Fe was still using steam and early diesel loco’s, such as Pacific, Mikado and Northern steam power and ALCO RS-3, ALCO PA’S, EMD GP9’S, F-3’S and ALCO S-4 switchers diesel power. The Santa Fe also used a smaller steam loco than the Pacific on their short line runs, but I need to research this a little more as I don’t know what class steam loco these were, however their is one on display in one of our local parks and I will take a picture of it and post it on this site, maybe someone can identify this loco and class.
Since I am planning on modeling an American RR in the 1950’s I belive I would be best served sticking to Aristocraft and USA trains equipment .
Again thanks so much for the advice and help. This is a great sight, the best I have found so far.
WOW!
That is one ambitious project, but should be fun!
Tim, Terry, Tony and Warren
I am sorry about getting carried away with my layout plans for my large scale project, as I modeled this same exact plan in N scale, but it was so small and couldn’t be very well detailed. I have never actually seen a large scale RR model so I guess I have no concept as to how large they really are, I guess I had better change my planning a little as I only have about 40 ft by about 90 ft. of space to work with. Oh well back to the drawing board !
Thanks for bringing back down to earth, but I am not discouraged about a large scale layout, I just have to change things a bit.
You can still come up with something that resembles what you want in a compressed format. BUT I suggest you start small and work your way up. Unless you own the bank you will suffer sticker shock when you go to purchase the track. You will here many of us talking about owning a lot of stuff…but understand those of us that do have been in large scale for many years. It’s taken me 17 years to get what I have. There is another factor that many new large scalers forget until they get their layouts started…you are modeling in a real life environment and will have to contend with all the 1:1 railroad maintenance problems. A certain amount of it can be fun but it’s easy to become overwhelmed and discouraged.
I would suggest that you start with a layout in the 12’x30’ range. Add in a 2 or 3 small industries. Get a GP9 and an S4 for starters with a dozen or so cars and take it from there. From that point you will be able to see what you really want to do and how much work you are willing to do. My recommendation for track…if you can afford it…is Aristo stainless. Set youR minimum diameter for 10’. Then be prepared for hours and hours of FUN…!!