Large Scale Central

Color laser printed decals

Modeling
#1

After a month or two in the weather, the decals I printed using a color laser are already showing signs of wear.
The decals were sprayed with clear acrylic after printing as well as after installation.

The decals printed using the clear (blue) waterslide paper have an entirely different problem than those printed on the white waterslide paper.
The “clear” decals have already faded severely. The red colors are the most affected. Black, doesn’t seem to have fade at all.

The “white” decals are not fading. However, the printing has crumbled off, mostly around the edges.

If they continue to degrade, I’ll have to replace the decals before the buildings have even been installed on the RR.
I will try using several coats of clearcoat next time. That may help the crumbling print problem with the “white” paper.
Any suggestions on how to fix the extreme UV fade problem with the “clear” paper?
Ralph

#2

Yikes! Don’t have one of those fancy, southern type laser do hickeys. My inkjet works just fine :stuck_out_tongue:

(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/altterrain/building%20projects/obriens1.jpg)

I’m guessing whatever inks are in your laser are not entirely UV resistant. though I thought laser inks were supposed to be superior to inkjets. I did have an initial problem with lettering coming off decal paper sometimes. After printing I would give the sheet an initial coat of Krylon Crystal Clear then a couple of coats of paint on clear acrylic (ModelMaster flat, semi, gloss, what ever). After that, a couple more coats of spray on clear coat. No problems since. -Brian

#3

You also may want to try one of those clear UV sprays as a top coat. these filter out the UV rays.

#4

I’ve not seen any clearcoats that are UV filters. What brand name should I look for?
I hope I can fix the problems. I wrote off ink jets years ago, and really don’t want to buy another just to do decals.
Ralph

#5

Dude…
:wink:

#6

the one I have used is U-POL #1 Clear. You can get it at some auto stores or autobody supply houses. A little expensive, but gives good protection. There are a couple of things to keep in mind when using it:

Temperature needs to be above 75 degrees. Any less than that and it does not spray well and will not settle flat on the surface.
note- it scares you the first time you use it as you see these “blobs” heading from the spray head to the model. It does flatten out once on the surface.

Allow to dry several days - 4 to 5 is best. Then put on your final topcoat of clear. It may feel dry to the touch before it completely sets, but you can easily leave a finger print in it. It is easily scuffed, so that is why another top coat of your favorite clear is good.

Depending on the surface and size of the decal, it sometimes may make more sense to spray the decal sheet before applying the decals. then a final clear coat on the whole model.

I would practice on something scrap to get a handle on how to spray it. I ruined a couple of things before I got the hang of it.

#7

Thanks, Steve.
I’ll hit the auto parts and see what I can find.
Ralph

#8

If you can’t find it local, there are a couple online body supply places that sell it. Last time I bought it, it was about $18.00 a can. It does go a long way if you only use it to keep UV away from something.