I am slowing progressing my fleet of coaches. Inspired by the narrow-gauge Rio Grande cars, this one is nearly ready for painting. Scales out around 43 feet in length.
Nice job.
Very nice. I like the enclosed vestibules.
This is a business car that I started this weekend. It is a freelance car for my railroad, with three separate furnished compartments and a side entry door each side for ‘special’ guests to access the rear compartments. It scales out around 47 feet.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/tim_brien/_forumfiles/2zax.JPG)
Another coach in progress. Body modified to correct 13 window length. Body ends extended approximately 0.5 inches each end. Roof overhang extended and end profile modified. End platform extended to match extended roof overhang.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/tim_brien/_forumfiles/2zaz.JPG)
That’s a good looking car; nice work.
Are you still using the same method for cutting the sides? Do you have any shots of it unpainted?
I don’t recall your method for extending the roof - maybe I missed that post?
Tim this is getting to be quite a nice fleet. 
Dave,
I have around a fifteen or more coaches in the process of building. All are extended bodies, with features common to the Rio Grande. They are not exact models of the Rio Grande but reflect the prototype. I purchased numerous undec Bachmann coach, combine and baggage bodies, as I knew that I wanted to make a unique fleet of cars.
Bruce,
Basically, I have two methods of cutting the coach sides. First is to cut with a Dremel with thin cutoff disc. Other method is to use a hacksaw. In both cases, I cut close to the cutoff line (usually a separation line in the moulding between the moulded timber planks). A file is used to reduce the plastic until the plank separation line is met. Unfortunately, the moulded plank lines are not perpendicular to the base line of the car and so when pieces are aligned on a baseplate, generally a tapered gap exists. The pieces must then be carefully trimmed to sit evenly on a baseplate and leave no gap between the two sides. A 0.060" styrene piece is then glued on the back of the join as reinforcement.
For extending/modifying the roof end section, then I also have two methods. I feel that the basic roof moulding does not extend far enough over the end platform. My first method is to remove the moulded end of car sections at each inside end of the roof moulding (using either a Dremel or side cutting pliers) and then extending the roof the required amount at each end. This does of cause require additional roof mouldings to use as spares. A styrene trim is then cut to fit inside the roof moulding at each end to fill the inside roof cavity above the end platform. Using this method, the stock moulded roof retaining spigots cannot be used and must be removed. I then glue the roof moulding to the car body.
The secod method requires numerous (thirty or forty) 0.030" strips of styrene to be glued to the exterior of each end of the car roof moulding, stacking them up like pancakes until the top of the roof is reached. Allow about 24 hours for the glue to dry and then using a file, the added styrene is shaped to the required profile and sanded smooth. A spray primer, then an aerosol spray putty is then applied in several thick coats and given plenty of time to dry (about 24 hours). The putty is then sanded smooth and reprimed and finish coated.
Joining roof sections requires the roof moulding pieces to join smoothly across the moulding, as any gap is generally visible under the finish coats, even though the gap is filled with plastic putty. When satisfied that the cut lines are correct, a reinforcing styrene 0.060" piece is glued to one half of the join so that half the piece extends from the moulding. When dry the two roof pieces are then glued together, with the previously applied reinforcing piece/s supporting the join. When dry, sand and finish coat.
The Bachmann coach body and roof mouldings have several problems as regards mixing and matching. Firstly, baggage and combine body pieces should not be intermixed with coach body sides as the plank scribing on the coach body is deeper than on the baggage and combine. Secondly, the thickness of the moulding is not consistent throughout the body/roof moulding. Thus when joining pieces, one needs to measure the thickness of the pieces to be joined and suitable thickness ‘filler’ pieces inserted behind the thinner body section, so that when joined together, the exterior surface remains flat. Same problem with the roof moulding, so that filler insert styrene pieces must be inserted as reinforcing to support the join and achieve a flat surface on the exterior of the roof. Any variation in final thickness requires a lot of work afterwards to clean up the join.
If possible, avoid the earlier released Bachmann kits (mid-1990’s) as the styrene used (ABS?) is not as solvent glue friendly as the recently released body kits. The later kits are easy to work with a quality styrene solvent glue (I only use Revell Professional in the syringe type needle dispenser container).
Have you cut any of the coaches to eliminate the clerestory? I want to backdate a Bachman kit hopefully without having to replace the whole top.
David,
I have not done a simple arched roof, removing the clerestory section. It should not present a problem, however, you would need to screw the roof to the body before removing the clerestory section to retain the shape/spacing. I would then laminate a couple of arched sections across the underside of the roof moulding so that when the centre section is replaced, the arched sections retain the shape. Probably better to glue in the arched sections before removing the clerestory section. This way the integrity of the roof is kept secure.
It would be possible to replace just the removed section of the roof, but a better option would be to reskin the existing roof after removing the clerestory section. I would use several layers (4 - 5) of 0.020" - 0.030" styrene sheet, as using just one or two pieces of 0.060" sheet would be too difficult to get a smooth contour.
The compound curving at the ends, could present a problem. At present I am doing a test 'duckbill' endroof section to do an earlier car than the 'bullnose' fairing cars as represented by the Bachmann roof moulding. For the compounding curves, I may use strips about 3/8" wide as the roof curves both laterally and longitudinally at each end.Experimenting with roof profile. Here is a test duckbill roofline. Made from 0.030" and 0.060" styrene sheet.
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/tim_brien/_forumfiles/2zazxx.JPG)
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/tim_brien/_forumfiles/2zazxy.JPG)
Tim, you are truly an artist with styrene, that stuff looks great
Thanks Tim for the tip about adding the spars before cutting off the clerestory. The compound curves can go as well.
THX
P.S. Looks real good!!!
Yes, that’s very nice work. I’ve never heard of aerosol spray putty - where do you get that? What type of plastic putty do you use? I’ve been using the green stuff from Squadron, but it always seems to have dried up when I really need it.
Bruce,
I normally use Squadron Green Putty for any filling, although, like most putties it does shrink some time after drying which leaves a slight impression of the filled area under the paint. I find that if the join is filled and then left a few weeks to allow shrinkage, then the join may be filled again and is less noticable.
The aerosol spray putty is sold for automotive repairs. It must be applied over a primed surface and must be primed after sanding. It is basically an undercoat/primer that has filler added. It must be sprayed in several (many) coats and given at least 24 hours to dry before any work may commence. It is not intended to fill deep depressions, but a relatively thick coat may be applied with several layers. Remember that it takes a long time to dry and the temptation is always there to start sanding because the surface looks dry. It is however, only a skin forming. Twenty four hours is usually sufficient, although the filled area may still be 'soft' afterwards until fully dried. Thus care must be taken not to bump or hit the repaired area on a sharp object (such as the corner of a bench), for a few days. I have used it for some years and find it more convenient than using the Squadron putty.
Bob,
I find the secret of using styrene is to use several thin layers and laminate a curved surface, rather than trying to use a thick piece to carry out the job. I roughly preform the curved part, using my fingers to roll it and then clamp to the surface, allowing overhang for cleaning up. Time must then be taken after building up the part to shape it with a ‘second-cut’ file and then finish with sandpaper (I use the automotive grade black sandpaper, traditionally called wet ‘n’ dry, as it is normally used with water when sanding car painted finishes. It is available in numerous grades, but is more expensive than the normal 'glass’paper used for timber working).
Thanks. I’ll have to keep that in mind for any future project. Time for a trip to the auto store.
For filling holes or fairing surfaces, I prefer to use automotive body putty (3M is a good choice). Mixes with a colored paste catalyst and is sandable and paintable in about 1 hour. Any time that I have resorted to Squadron I have been disappointed.
Rather than an auto store, look for an automotive paint store… You’ll find some really helpful stuff there. Geoff
I have something called ‘Mr. Fixit’ spot and glazing putting, it’s quite ‘thin’ and dries very quickly. Would that be similar Geoff?
I prefer spot glazing putty myself. Randy I believe what Geoff is referring to is commonly called Bondo (manufacturer’s name)
Yes, I’m talking about Bondo, works just fine but I prefer 3M. Comes in a quart can with a little tube of catalyst. It’s what the pros use, what can I say. Mix up a golf ball size on an old piece of plastic… spread it thin or thick, cures fasts (won’t hold up your work) and sands to a feather edge.