my latest project.
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my latest project.
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Alan,
Looks great! The proportions look prototypical too although I haven’t compared it to a prototype photo. Nice modeling!
What’s the scale? 1:32 or 1:29?
Nice looking build Alan, Hello nice to meet you , and although a pic is worth a cup of coffee if you’ve got $10.00 to go with it, can you enlighten us as to how you did and what you used
The boxcab is a model I designed along the lines of the CNJ #1000 in 1/29th scale. The model was drawn in cad and laser cut. The material is 2mm sheet styrene. The radiators and stacks were hand crafted, molded and discast. All of the rivets and nuts and bolts were hand applied in holes drilled by the laser. Everything else was hand fashioned. The power trucks are Aristocraft for their center cab switcher. Couplers and pockets are Kadee #779.
Thank you for the response. I noticed the screens and a few other details and always enjoy knowing how others accomplish things I’ll need to do.
Alan.
That is a really fine model.
Ralph
That looks great Alan. Im more of steam guy but I have always liked the look of those boxcabs.
Almost as many rivits went into your box cab as the one Bruce constructed…one day we should introduce the two of you…I think he has a short cut for riviting…
Shawn
So am I. check out my camelback. http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=11857
alan
Alan Friedland said:
Shawn So am I. check out my camelback. http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=11857alan
Very nice. Do you do your own laser cutting?
The rivets look awesome, but I can’t imagine doing those by hand! Well done.
Bruce Chandler said:
Very nice. Do you do your own laser cutting?The rivets look awesome, but I can’t imagine doing those by hand! Well done.
1 make a tool to handle the rivets. I ground a pair of tweezers till the points were very narrow. You want to hold as little of the rivet stem as possible.
2 tape a business card to your workbench and added a tape loop to it. You don’t want them moving around and you do not want to try and cut the rivets off the sprues against a hard surface, they will shoot off if you do.
3 Add; good light, a good radio station and a comfortable chair.
4 push the rivet sprue to the tape loop and cut the rivets off the sprue. I cut off only as many as I felt like dealing with at the time (6 – 20). I use a #18 chisel blade. It will cut about 5 or 6 at one time. The tape loop holds the rivets enough to keep them in place.
5 brushed liquid cement onto 4 – 6 rivet holes at a time and place the rivets. Once in place a second brush with the cement. Repeat.
6 after the cement has dried I used the #18 to slice off any of the rivet tails on the inside of the model. I don’t want to poke any back through due to handling.
7 plan on doing small sections at one time. Take your time. You will be surprised at how fast you will get it done.
On the boxcab I lost no rivets and used about 30sprues X 20 rivets or about 600 rivets. Took about 2 hours total. The result was well worth the effort.
alan
Okay, its Friday and I’m denser than usual. What are the rivets made from? Are they flush to the skin of the holes? Great looking box cab.
Ric
the rivets are Grant line #156. plastic.
alan
Alan, Great job on the boxcab… Looks wonderful…
Shawn said:Alan Friedland said:
Shawn So am I. check out my camelback. http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=11857alan
I dont know how i missed that one. Very nice
I missed it as well. Amazing stuff. Check out the web site and look what you can get: http://www.thegalline.com/galatlanticprojectpage1.html Neat…
Bruce
take another look
alan
I liked the flatcars, but can’t seem to find them again.
Getting there. added the 3rd radiator to the roof. air brushed the roof flat and the body semi gloss black. Pardon the error. Put the roof on backwards when I took the pic. Couple of more details to add such as a lift bar , polling pockets and flag sockets. Am now searching for the lettering and that guy in the window. prefer dry transfers. alan
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