Can someone email me a copy/scan of the Climax schematic. Buddy of mine bought a couple, but no brochure with them. First run, I am sure. Want to convert them to battery power.
Man. I’ve NEVER used a schematic on one of those. If I had it, I threw it away.
Follow the two wires from each truck to the centre flicker board, remove them. Those go to throttle motor outputs.
Remove bottom truck covers, remove pickups.
If on-board, follow head and backup light wires to board, remove them, if retaining LED’s, connect with a 500-1K ohm resistor to lighting outputs of throttle. If no lighting outputs on throttle, connect switched battery power into spots on flicker board you removed track wires from.
Dave
Thanks Dave, you are always helpful.
I don’t think anyone ever made a schematic for it. I know that a couple of people spent a LOT of time reverse engineering the stuff in the K-27, it was not pretty.
I’m not familiar with the chuff circuits, are you wanting to use them, or just auto-chuff?
Greg
The original version of the Climax had two pairs of contacts wired IN SERIES in the two cylinders.
The likelihood of closing both at the same time was … well, nil.
Now, you could run an extra wire from one side to the other and solve that, but then because of the quartering you’d get “chuff chuff miss miss chuff chuff miss miss”
You could then crank one side to make the pistons 180 degrees apart, and get “Chuff miss chufff miss” which was at least regular, and the half prototypical rate common at the time.
That’s why most folks used auto chuff on that model, I think.
Matthew (OV)
Sorry, I sort of assumed that this was the new version… not a good assumption.
Jerry, new or old?
Greg
" First run, I am sure. "
One wag tested the chuff circuitry, and some where around warp factor two, the rods would stretch just enough to get both contacts closed at once, you’d get one chuff, and the unit would self destruct.
Even re-wired, they don’t ever work right.
90 degree gearbox and rods…chuff-chuff-blank-blank-chuff-chuff-blank-blank-chuff-chuff-blank-blank-chuff-chuff-blank-blank-chuff-chuff-blank-blank-chuff-chuff-blank-blank-chuff-chuff-blank-blank-chuff-chuff-blank-blank-chuff-chuff-blank-blank-well, you get the picture.
I put two magnets imbedded in the outer u-joint ring just aft of the center gearbox, with a reed switch horizontal on the ashpan above it, offset a bit from centre, and shimmed out a tad.
Never had a problem.