Large Scale Central

Chuff Question

I thought I’d start this new post on a current topic I’ve been searching answers to for few weeks now.

I’m looking to add chuff to my LGB Forney and am at a total loss as to what to do. I’ve removed all the LGB electronics and replaced with Tony Walsham’s RC gear and a Phoenix P8 sound card. I’ve somehow lost the pc/reed switch assembly that originally was installed in the engine in between the drive wheels. I’ve assumed this was the chuff sensor. I could be wrong.

I’ve searched hard and long and am finding tons of information about reed switches, magnets, and hall sensors and the like. What I’m not finding is practical application with step by step instructions how to build any of this for my application. I’m not an electrician and I don’t understand schematics, but I can look at an example i.e photo or sketch and can pretty much figure things out…with time. I’m not the fastest eggliner in the bunch.

Is there a practical guide or log of someone building and installing something like this in an engine? I’d like to understand a bit more about how all of this works and how it all gets hooked up.

If you have a suggestion I am most appreciative.

Thanks,

Richard

Hello Richard.

If you have the Phoenix software and programming hardware, you can set the P8 for (adjustable) voltage controlled chuff.

Otherwise use four tiny magnets on one drive wheel so they can trigger a reed switch at the correct position.

It is easier to add magnets to the Freight truck wheels and glue a reed sensor to the truck.

If using the LGB 65012 reed sensors for bell and whistle, the chuff reed can be attached/glued to this assembly.

On my first Forney I installed the Phoenix sound board, battery, and speaker plus program jack and volume control in the fuel bunker.

Thanks Tony and Dan…I am truly sorry for being a novice turd with all of this. I’ve just not been gifted with a clear understanding of electronics. But with the help of guys like you and others I’ve been able to get things to work…

OK>>>both of you mention tiny magnets on the wheels…what kind of magnets and where exactly are they placed on the wheels? Glued? Do they automatically adhere? This is how basic I need to get (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif). The reed sensor is glued but what is the P8 wiring soldered too? The ends of the reed sensor? To a point on the truck. I did clip wiring off the rear truck of the Forney when I was disassembling everything.

Tony - what I’ve not been understanding is if I go with voltage regulated chuff where do I solder or connect the P8 wiring? Do I need another component from you for this additional wiring. I’ve got the triggers wired to the

Dan - I don’t think I need the bell and whistle switch that you suggested. I already have the bell, whistle, etc attached to a component that Tony included in the RC package. These are triggered with buttons on the TX which work just fine. So if I mount a reed switch to the freight truck with magnets on the wheels where do I connect the P8 chuff wiring? Also, where did you mount the program and volume jack? In the back of the fuel bunker or in the floor? What worked best for you/

You guys are great!! I really appreciate all of this!!

Richard

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=1

1/8th to 3/16 flat discs.

A drop of CA will prevent sliding off the wheel at high RPM!(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif) Or in my case being bumped …

If you use the P8 voltage regulated chuff, the program needs to be set set to read the motor voltage instead of what a reed switch timer is sending.

The only connection to the P8 is then the Orange and Grey wires from the P8. Which way round they go when connecting to the motor voltage, determines what the number of toots at start up and stopping are. Although that can also be determined in programming.

The Green wires from the P8 are the battery power supply. In this case polarity does not matter.

If you are a stickler, you mount the magnets so that they match the ends of the strokes of the pistons, otherwise you just evenly space them.

But I thought you could use 2 magnets and tell the Phoenix to do 2 chuffs or 4 chuffs per revolution.

Greg

Magnets will not adhere to the wheels as the wheels are usually brass or castings.

Be careful to not place the magnets close to the outer rim as they will hit the guard rails.

The reason for installing reed sensors for bell and whistle is to have the engine always blow the whistle for crossings or tunnel entry. Bell for approaching the station.

Just place magnets on the track to activate these features.

I appreciate all the advice…believe it or not I’m starting get a better idea of how this all works. The issue with the LGB Forney is the drive wheels are pretty much encased with very little clearance for a magnet. The motor block takes up all the space. So I may have to play with the trucks under the oil bunker as Dan suggests. That is unless there is another option. I could possibly fit a 1/16" magnet on the drive wheel…but not sure where the reed switch would be mounted because of the motor block. I’ll have time to play with stuff this weekend

Again, thanks!!

Richard