What can a guy use for an inexpensive motor block for 1:20.3 2’ gauge loco. Can an old lionel loco be converted to regular two rail DC?
Devon, check Northwest Shortline NWSL.com. They have motor blocks and they used to have “the flea” for powering rail vehicles in O scale. I am not sure if the still have the O gauge flea, I know they stopped making the G gauge flea. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-frown.gif)
I seem to be chasing you on different threads David.
Thanks for your help.
LOL, I can hard to catch sometimes.
How about Battery power O. I see it exists but is cheap tou trains. Now all I want is the block. If they work then I can see this as a option. I could then use old O wheel set because no track power.
A clock work loco is looking better all the time. What about instead of a wind up clock works what about battery clock works.
Dang it this has to be possible without spending a orutne.
Battery clock motors have no real torque to speak of. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-yell.gif)
*Please bring back the spell checker for Devon’s sake! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)
Yes Joe I need spell checker. Beyond fat fingers I am also just a horrible speller. Sadly I have come to rely heavily on spell checker. It is a terrible crutch but one I lean on.
David. They no longer have an O flea but they do have what they call the magic carpet drive for 2 rail O. It is perfect but ouch. $75 for motor, axel and wheels.
http://shop.osorail.com/product.sc?productId=2215&categoryId=214
This is only one axel. So another axel would have to be had then a truly ground up build. But a solution none the less and the scratch building part doesn’t bother me.
This is promising as well. http://www.ipengineering.co.uk/page57.html
26 euros for a complete chassis
Devon, did you miss the indoctrination page to our insanity;
Welcome to G $cale
???
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)
John,
Yes I know. But there is something fun in trying to do somehting as inexpensively as possible. This Micro needs to be simple and inexpensive. I think I can do it. I found the motor block solution I think, for whatever 26 euros is plus shipping. Thats if I can’t cobble a new bright down to 32mm.
Although I am mad at shawn because pressing in the back of my mind is a little clock works swamp loger that I think could give me an idea for a little saddle tank.
Just so you know though my next build I think I have decided to take out all the stops. I wont purposely spend a bunch but i think I am going to cut no corners. We will see. Thats a ways away.
Have to finish #1 and start on 2 coaches 2 box cars and a caboose. Then there is this micro. I believe thats the priority list.
Oh and surveying and grading the Post falls Branch of the CR&N. Thats not money thats man power (mine).
If you don’t need much power, why not stretch a cheap/secondhand HO mech widthways. Some of them have flanges so big you could get away without changing the wheels. I’ve seen it done successfully from HO to S gauge, and from G to 2.5in. HO to O is a bit further proportionally but can’t see why it couldn’t be done with care.
And it give you a whole host of wheel diameters and spacings to play with.
J.
Devon… I’ve been “playing” around with some O gauge stuff and found that most all power trucks from Lionel, K-Line, Williams, MTH have vertical can motors that are DC operation. I’ve converted a number of locomotives to Battery power using the Crest REVOLUTION RCC system to control them… They work just great…
I remove all the roller pickups but you need to be careful to not run any power into the 2 rail track as the wheels are not isolated and will short out.
Stan when you say power trucks are you saying the motor block of a steamer, beacuse if you are then this would greatly simplify things. I can certainly make it battery power and really don’t even need RCC but if that happens I am good with it. Provided there is space for it. Really though for what I want a simple on off swith and constant speed would be fine.
What I am confused about though is how is the three rail AC converted to DC for the motor?
Devon… The AC power from the track is converted to DC through a Bridge Rectifier… Center rail on O gauge track is the “Hot” side with both outer rails being the “ground”. That’s why the axles are not isolated from the wheels. They stay in constant contact with the “ground”.
It’s quite simple when working.
I use a bridge rectifier to convert the AC track power to DC input on the REVOLUTION when powering from the track… Using onboard DC battery power, there is no need for a bridge rectifier as the current is already DC.
I’m off line for the evening but will be back later in the morning… email me if you’d like… [email protected]
Devon Sinsley said:
Stan when you say power trucks are you saying the motor block of a steamer, beacuse if you are then this would greatly simplify things. I can certainly make it battery power and really don’t even need RCC but if that happens I am good with it. Provided there is space for it. Really though for what I want a simple on off swith and constant speed would be fine.
What I am confused about though is how is the three rail AC converted to DC for the motor?
Its called a rectifier. Www.En.wikipedia.org/wiki/rectifier
OK since we are talking inexpensive solutions (read here that I am cheap) and I know I can pick up an old O gauge 3 rail basher and can run it on DC battery power tis begs the question can I go to good will or even walmart and pick up a cheap RC car and use its battery pack and RC control to give me forward/reverse and speed control? I mean this is going to be a light weight train and I wont be asking it to run for hours. If I can make it go for 15-30 minutes on a charge that would be really cool. I think most of the time it will be a slow chug one sped one direction but if I can have cheap control over it why not.
Hey bud, I found a cheapo power brick fer ya!
Make us an offer!
John
Thats dang cool John. I am stealing that photo. Note that the pilot and cylindars are opposite. That is just about the right size.
The king pin appears to be sprung, there are leaf springs between the wheels. That would make the body sprung!
Me? The top hat, why?
Devon… Here’s a 3 axle power truck from a Williams PA before I converted it to run with the REVOLUTION…
OK Stan is talking about this DC can motor; however I am trying to work with a small steamer and in an email he said that the older cheaper locos did not use the DC motor but an open frame motor. Not sure that what that is but maybe someone can enlighten me onto a steam application that I can wire as a battery DC block. Is there inexpensive Steam applications with this DC motor?