Large Scale Central

Changing wheels and couplers on Accucraft / AMS equipment

Modeling Rolling stock
#1

I’ve owned 5 Accucraft 1:20.3 AMS cars for about 3 or 4 years. Most of that time, they have been shelf queens. I’ve always suspected the flange of the wheels or the couplers. Well, the time has come to create something I can use. I’m converting them or selling the hulks. I originally bought a Gondola, it had problems and I tried to resolve then with all the latest solutions. Loosened up the trucks, put in a little piece of angle to hold the truck side frames away from dragging on the sides of the wheels. Cut a couple circles out of the springs on the trucks to loosen them up. Remove the centering springs on the couplers. All well intended and tried ideas, but this car and the 4 flat cars always seem to get bad-ordered in an “OPs Session” for uncoupling, not uncoupling or derailing. Time to resolve this. The resolution on the couplers are Kadees. It is a simple replacement with 835’s. A little super glue or epoxy on the centering springs and they even work in the coupler pockets. I do think part of the uncoupling problems and maybe even the derailing problems have to do with the chains on the disconnect bars. Those chain links are large and harsh. Close observation shows those chain links hanging up on a curve or through a turnout. This becomes a non item with the Kadees, so it is self-resolving. But if you stay with the Accucraft couplers, pay attention to those chains. I picked up some USA metal wheels from RLD Hobbies. The resolution for the refit is to take 3/32 off each end of the axle and drill the brass bearings on the side frames out to a 3/16 hole. Here are some pictures to illustrate how I did this. This is the difference between a USA and an Accucraft wheel. The Accucraft is on the left.

I ground of 3/32’s of each end of the USA wheel.

Here is the USA wheel profile 3/32’s shorter.

I cleaned up the edges first on the grinding wheel and finally with emery cloth.

The bearing on the right is drilled out, the one on the left is yet to be done.

The wheel set on the left is USA, the one on the right is Accucraft.

Here is a close up of the Accucraft wheel set.

Here’s a close up of the USA wheel set. Because of the shadows you can’t see much, but then that’s the point.

They track a lot better, don’t derail and act more like the 1:20.3 Bachmanns. I think problem resolved. Yes, I know, my track work could be better. You really didn’t have to tell me, but thanks.

#2

Ric,
I was having prollems with my Accu’s also.
I remedied the whole thing by changing out the couplers to KD 789 knuckles only. (Center shank–no offset.) They are a direct fit into the Accu’s coupler box. Although I had to ream the mounting hole in the coupler a little. I used the KD springs instead of the Accu springs.
I removed the chain and the air hoses.
I left the stock wheels in. But I lubed up the bolster and the trucks.
They now run all day long without any prollems at all.

#3

What scale equipment are you running them with, Ric. They look out -of-place with any other smaller scale equipment.
As you know; I had about 40 pieces of 1:20.3 equipment, but was planning on using it in a seperate NG operation. It sure looked bad mixed in with the 1:22.5 stuff.
I sold it off as it was much too delicate for practicle use out of doors in a REAL operation.

#4

Fred,

I run it with my geared Bachmann 1:20.3 engines. Remember, I work in that exacting scale of 1:21.4 ( half way between 1:20.3 and 1:22.5).

John,

I tried that for awhile and compared to the Bachmann 1:20.3 equipment it wasn’t as good. As I said, decided to try something because they became shelf queens and nothing else.

I like the larger size of 1:20.3, but live in the world of compromise.

#5

Cleared Cookies, per Bob’s suggestion. Pictures posted and problem is resolved. Thanks again Bob.

#6

Cleared the cookies???

(http://fattychow.files.wordpress.com/2008/03/cookie-monster-diet.jpg)

#7

Whenever your computer is acting sick, always have it toss its cookies

#8

Hey Ric -

Disregard the email I sent. I hadn’t read your full post before firing off a note. Looks like you have the solution worked out.

#9

Cookies???

#10

chocolate chip???

#11

(http://images.funagain.com/cover/medium/17047.jpg)

#12

Interesting fix. I’m expecting my AMS flat car (1:20.me photo contest prize) any day now, so it will be interesting to see how it performs compared to the B’mann flats. More to the point, it will be interesting to see if they’ve got the new tread profile that’s on the passenger cars. Those wheels seem to do rather well, at so much as I’ve run them.

Any thoughts to drilling out the journal boxes to accommodate ball bearings?

Later,

K

#13

Kevin wrote - “Any thoughts to drilling out the journal boxes to accommodate ball bearings?”

Yes, I just don’t have access to the ball bearings. It was interesting in the process of the 5 cars (1 gondola and 4 flats) to note the difference of the bearing material. The flat’s bearings drilled easily with the residue turning to a very fine powder, immediately. The gondola bearing’s brass were tougher and peeled off in long strings of brass, but ended up snagging and spinning out better than 50% of that car’s bearings.

Next problem to attack with these cars is the air hoses hanging too low. Modified one last night by shorting the hose up about a 1/4 inch. This should be high enough to keep them out of the turnout frogs.

#14

Nice job Ric!

Phil’s Narrow Gauge (link) offers a service to put ball bearings in the Accucraft trucks. I’ve read several reviews reporting excellent results using his Accucraft Freight, Caboose, Tender and J&S Passenger Trucks Service (link). He also offers Sierra Valley wheelsets as an option.

Phil is an LSC advertiser and his prices are very reasonable.

Happy RRing,

Jerry

#15

Thanks Jerry. I think my fix will resolve the “Shelf Queens” for my needs. Future purchases will probably be mostly Bachmann 1:20.3 that come without the problems.

#16

If they keep de-railing, I’m still gonna bad-order them… hehehe

Doug had to drag a combine that he wants to bad-order, too…

:slight_smile:

#17

(http://www.i2k.com/~dpierce/LSI/mhe_51.jpg)

#18

lmaoooooooo, Bruce, you gots it… I’ll reduce them down and make them all G-Scale…

#19

Just make sure you don’t forget the first R in Order. But then again, maybe the combine needs a Bad Odor sign :smiley:

#20

Now, Jon, that all depends on how long it’s been sitting out at Cat Dump…