Large Scale Central

Camping Trailers (Moved from TrainOps 2024)

Probably could Sean but wouldn’t it be cheaper to just drill numerous large holes in the mattress to reduce the weight?

Probably could, but we only go in there when packing up or setting up, so not worth the investment. I have plenty of stuff to spend cash on.

Just a quick update. The cargo capacity issue has been resolved. A few weeks ago the regional sales rep put me in touch with the Sales Manager at our dealer. I finally learned the real story of what was going on and why it took so long. A new axle showed up two weeks ago, but it was the same as we have :frowning: The dealer insisted Forrest River “hot ship” the correct one and it arrived Monday. They got me in yesterday and did the swap while I waited. It took less than 3 hours…

They don’t have a “lot bar” for the Hensley, so they left it connected while they did the work. I may end up having one made for future service.

Bottom line is that I am extremely happy with Forrest River / Surveyor for stepping up and resolving the problem without a fight and with all the people at my dealer, Longview RV in Windsor, CT for everything they did to get it taken care of.

Now I’m loading up for out 4000+ mile September trip.

EDIT PS: What they did was to remove the 4400# axle and replace it with a 5200# axle adding 800 pounds of capacity.

So now you can have a 8 kegger weekend instead of a 4. Remember no keg stands as your getting too old for that these days!

Glad to hear that you have that problem resolved. It is always a wonderful surprise when a company steps up and takes care of things.

Yea, service work was always a hassel when we were pulling with our ProPride (Hensley), They never seemed to know just how to handle things.

Making a lot bar would be fairy simple. I have a 2" tube extension that could have a ball receiver welded on one end. The other could pin to the Hensley ‘stinger’.

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Ok, don’t know much about travel trailers , but as a truck driver for over 48 years my opinion only and no aspersions on anyone here, but, a lot of people that have them , shouldn’t! They just don’t understand all the complexities.
Anyway my question is What is a “Lot Bar” my guess is a hitch for them to move it with a forklift, but like I said I just don’t know.

Yes. The Hensley does not have a ball hitch. A square ‘stinger’ tube runs from the 2" receiver on the tow vehicle to the Hensley head, which attacheds to the trailer via the ball.

A lot bar fits into the Hensley head and allows a 2" ball to connect. Not safe for towing, but fine for moving a unit around a lot or a campground using whatever they use as a tow motor.

Researching this on the Hensley site I realized that their bar also includes a device to stop the bottom of the hitch from rotating.

Is the whole thing to make the trailer more stable, less prone to swaying and things like that. Kind of looks like it is a kind of 5wheel conversion for a towable trailer

I’m not a physics expert, so I’ll refer you to the many write-ups of how Hensley’s designs work. Either on the Hensley website, or any of the many independent reviews.

The two-part head is articulated. Theoretically it projects the pivot point to the rear axle of the tow vehicle. It only accepts steering input from the front. Input from the rear is fully stopped, not just resisted like most sway reduction systems.

It’s not physically possible for the trailer to sway. It feels like a straight truck when towing.

One last ‘upgrade’ before we hit the road on Wednesday. Trailer doors used to have frosted windows, but the new ones have clear windows with another opportunity for the dealer to sell an optional shade. I decided I could save a few dollars and make my own. Before…

Started out with an old sign printed on .040 styrene that was cut to fit…

Coated both sides with matte black vinyl and added some small Velcro squares to hold it on…

Packing starts now!

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Clever man to successfully fit a manicure sign into such a tight window space. Hopefully you didn’t damage a nail in the process. :innocent:

  • Apologies Jon, I was also just imagining you not painting both sides and waking up to find a queue of ladies your door, at the KOA campground, waiting for your “shop” to open.
  • Yes, I’ve been told, I’m easily amused…

Clever design.
Using a dry-erase pen to show his rates, the velcro attachment will make it easy for Jon to adjust them.
:grin:

Jon,
Just returned from 4 days at Crater Lake Campground.

We used a window film on the bunk windows, it obscures the view but still lets the light in.

Have a great time on your trip.

I have some of the one-way mirror vinyl which was my first thought. Works great in the day, but when dark outside and light inside, it is pretty transparent.

I love the design of your window film :smiley:

Every RV we’ve ever had, the window shade on the door has been a pain to access. I’m pondering using some of that electrically controlled opaque sheeting I’ve been seeing. Then it’s just another button on the control board.

Right. You need to open the door, then close the screen to access the glass on the door. The sheeting sounds interesting. You would need to figure out a flexible wire route -OR- if it could be battery powered, then a switch where it could be accessed from the screen slide. Is it pricey? The window is around 2 sq. foot.

It’s not too pricey, but it’s not real cheap either.

The adventures have begun. Night one at a hilltop farm near Utica, NY…

Last and the next three nights moochdocking at my Brother’s house…


Then a few nights in a NPS campground and a stop in Carlyle to visit Jan and Ric Golding before making the long trek to Denver to visit my son and his family.

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Looks like those jack block did the trick :sunglasses: