Is this being done in your neck of the woods?
No, I’ve not seen that. But then again, our camper travel range has been pretty local for the last four or five years.
Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with an axe.
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There actually was a nice square line to follow. My oscillating saw drifts a bit. I also wasn’t expecting the cabinet wall to be laminated thee layers thick…
Saved by the trim…
Escutcheon’s are all the rage these days!
Had a friend who was a chippie (carpenter) who had a T-shirt that said:
- MEASURE TWICE
- CUT ONCE
- POUND TO FIT
I’ve cussed more than once during the MIK though it was more Measure Twice cuss three times 
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Today, battery #2 arrived and I began the process of establishing baselines for the shunt/monitor. I’ve established full charge rest voltage. Now the reefer is running and every LED light in the place plus the fan is on. Converter is off, so it’s all on the battery. I don’t know what to expect, but since it’s really only the reefer and fan drawing any significant power, it will probably still be blazing in the morning.
Jon I was only refeering to the payments , add on are a different catagory. When I had the truck, (Peterbilt) I had a line item for accessories, (Chrome and Stainless) which added up faster than I expected!LOL
Nearly 16 hours later, the single 100Ah battery is still delivering power. I ended up shutting off all but the refrigerator and the exterior clearance lamps (I have a shorting plug for the pigtail). In a bit, I’ll go out and power up every 12V item I can find, except the pump. I need this battery dead!
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As expected, the battery shut down just after I posted. Then I started hooking up the shunt. Checking the manual once more I realized I was supposed to drain the battery with the shunt attached. Oh well, starting over as soon as both batteries reach full charge and the parallel cables show up.
There are several spots where I need to pass wires through cabinet walls or shelves. I picked up some 1.5" desk grommets and a hole saw, so 4 of them got installed along with the final (I thought) cable management for the TV. Of course when I looked at the pictures I realized I forgot one wire. There’s always tomorrow to do that again too…
This bundle leads to the cabinet where an amp and DVD player will live and contains a HDMI, stereo Audio and two power cords…
And apparently, I forgot to post this shot of the fully completed set of Rick Marty Special Edition Stabilizer Blocks…
If everything went as planned and no issues then it would be nothing to show or report , well… done. See Ont o next … done!
We had the saying “ putty and paint make the job what it ain’t “
This should be the last of the major work. Dual LFP batteries with a Shunt monitor and circuit breaker disconnect. I currently have every possible DC load powered up and all chargers powered down for a full discharge baseline test. Seems with everything I’m drawing just under 11 amps which is the rating of the refrigerator.
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A couple of minor things and I’m almost done. First, I was really bothered by how crooked everything looked on Battery #1 (above), so I loosened up the bolts and got everything square. My OCD is now satisfied.
My full discharge test was a little funky. I had “charging Disabled” on the solar charge controller, but the solar was still feeding power to the batteries! I had to physically disconnect the PV wire to allow the batteries to discharge fully.
Next, I needed a way to power a small 400 watt inverter for my CPAP. In the old camper I ran a wire from the battery to an Anderson plug in a cabinet near the bed. This camper has DC already routed near the bed for USB chargers, so I just mounted an old-school 12V lighter plug just above the USB. Hook up was a simple matter of putting the wires into a pair of existing WAGO connectors 
Not the best photo, but you get the idea. The small inverter fits on the shelf above and the wardrobe door will even open over it!
One more Arvy Too project: Find a route for the battery monitor data cable, run it and mount the monitor display inside the camper.
Rather than drill a new hole through the floor, I decided to use the existing penetration for the water heater gas line. It was pretty simple, just break away the spray foam and fish the cable through…
That got me inside the pass through storage and allowed me to just follow the route of an existing cable to get to the wardrobe area.
Then cut the hole. A little cleaner than the last one. Good thing too because there is less than .25" of trim on the display…
Next, plug the cable in and shove the monitor in the hole. Done!
For those on PC’s, sorry about the Portrait format. It just seemed to work better for the space!
Jon said: Penetration and has been reported to the moderator!
A few more odds and ends today.
There is under-bed storage that has gas shocks to hold it open except our aftermarket mattress is too heavy for them, so I made a simple prop to help hold it up…
The AC is not ducted and blows straight down. A plastic vent deflector held on with 3M DualLock re-directs the air to the rear or the bed area (it’s reversable). The wire hanging down is the temperature sensor that I moved to get a more accurate reading as suggested on the Surveyor forum…
Can you get stronger struts?