Naah, Bill I don’t think you did. But if I go camping in the mountains I prefer gasoline or diesel power myself as you can always carry a spare 5 gallons easily. Now if I’m cruising the town looking for hens or just wanna wet my beak then I personally prefer the AA class.
John had my brother in law ride with me 150 miles to Tucson from my side of Phoenix and back , about 5.5 hours driving once in the truck, he said it was crazy to think I could still do another 5.5 hours driving that same day. It’s all in what you are used to. 
Several of the large service plazas we stopped in like Love’s or Flying J had EV charging lanes that were wide and long, but I never saw them in use.
When I was younger, I could easily do 10-12 hours in the car when needed. When my oldest was 5, we did Buffalo to Ft. Lauderdale straight through with a 4 hour sleep stop. I’m no longer in a hurry, so I try and do 4-5 hours drive time plus stops.
Just came across a caravaner’s delight to visit Springfield USA.
I guess by the end of the trip you’d be able to say you’ve really broken-in your Motor Homer Home. 
I suppose it’s OK to revive this thread now that camping season is on the horizon. This spring’s RV project is to update the solar charge controller to better charge the lithium batteries I added last year.
Step one is to add a disconnect for the solar panels and the charger -to-battery line. These are required by code in land based installations, but somehow the RV industry gets away without them. That meant that every time I disconnected the PVA leads at the battery they were still hot!
The upgraded charge controller is lots bigger…
It needs a lot of air space, so I needed to extend the wires to a spot where it would fit. The cut-off switch addition was a perfect way to extend the wires…
So I could locate the controller in the large cabinet in the bathroom…
Testing will need to wait until I remove the winter cover from the panels and re-install the batteries. Probably mid April.
Nice and tidy. I’m starting to dig everything out from their boxes and come up with an order of operations. First up will be to add the EMS to the shore power. I’ll probably be removing the auto transfer switch for the onboard generator prep, since we wont be installing one onboard, and I can use the spot for the ATS.
Hughes Power Watchdog:
And the ATS in the passthrough storage are.
I’m stealing that line for a customer at my garage. He’s a good guy and great customer who knows nothing about cars but always wants to know the procedure.
Jon,
As BD said …nice neat/clean install!
I’m with Rooster. No idea what you guys are up to, or if it will work, but at least it’s tidy.
Cliff, honestly I know exactly what they are doing now that I have pictures!
@rmccown-admin - Is that Power Watchdog one of those devices that will keep the current flowing even if the voltage drops due to overload in the campground? Those are very cool, but is it fair ? 
@Cliff_Jennings - It’s really simple stuff. Solar panels see sun and make power, but at a voltage that isn’t good for charging storage batteries. The Solar Conrtoller changes that voltage to properly manage the charging of whatever battery type you select. The stock (little) one uses PWM to convert the voltage, but it’s not efficient and doesn’t work hardly at all when there is not full sun on the panels. The Maximum Power Point Transfer (MPPT) controllers will pull power from the panels even on cloudy days. Google MPPT for the specifics, but basically it finds the voltage where the maximum amperage will transfer to the batteries while maintaining the correct voltage output for charging.
Not flowing, but it will prevent under-voltage, which will screw up your AC or other 120v motor-driven appliances in a hurry. It saved our bacon on our month long trip last year, the campground voltage dropped during heavy use, and it shut it down. It also makes sure the pedestal is wired correctly. This newer model is supposed to have more whiz-bang features too, like remote monitoring.
Last RV was 30 amp, and we used the plug-in kind (which we are now selling). The new rig is 50 amp and I’m hard-wiring it in.
EDIT: This one: https://hughesautoformers.com/product/pwd30-epo/
Ah, auto shut-off. That’s cool. I have read, but not researched, that there are even pricier ones that will actually boost the voltage to the coach by pulling more current at the low voltage pedestal then reducing that current buy increasing the voltage to the coach. That’s the one I think is unfair because it puts an even higher load on the park system reducing the voltage even further to the rest of the camp.
Is the link to the one you are selling? If so, PM me your asking - or PM correct lingk and asking. I might be interested.
The only 110 appliances we have is the TV, Microwave and converter. I started using a basic surge only model with the new camper. Never used one in 15 years with the old camper. Lucky I never had problems due to bad power.
Yea, those always seemed like a bad idea. “Lets draw more current than you should just to keep 115v.”
PM sent.
Like Jon, my rig wasn’t set up with a solar disconnect from the factory, just directly wired to the panel on the roof.
Easy enough to add a disconnect switch (there will be more to the left of it as I flesh out the rest of the solar)
Next up, is replacing the cheap (and failure-prone) 12v power disconnect to the fuse panel. The one that is in here is a known issue.
I will be replacing it with this Blue Sea switch. Blue Sea products are bulletproof, they look cool, and switch with a satisfying ‘clunk’
Nothing like a real solid clunk to know it did what you told it to do!
Remove the generator-prep transfer switch, and wired in (temporarily) the Power Watchdog. This will get moved a bit when the rest of the battery/solar work gets done, but it’s in place and working.
Transfer switch. We wont be adding an onboard generator, so this can go.
Watchdog in place. Need some protective loom, but that’ll come with the rest of the work.
App for the watchdog showing both legs and their state. Pretty neat.
Harbor Freight Preditor 5KW dual fuel is on sale April 11-14. I’m definitely considering it. It’s only 30A, but that’s good enough for me. I might sell my open frame 5KW and get it. The open frame is too loud and heavy to travel with. I’m still not sure I want to charge my lithium batteries with the converter. I’d probably disconnect that with the battery switch and use my 115V charger.
If I ever get an inverter I might want a transfer switch. If you want to sell it, PM me before listing it.
Getting some more bits in today. Have two out of the three solar controllers in place, and the Cerbo. I will replace the existing non-Victron solar controller after lunch today.
This box contains the two 65ah lead-acid batteries. They will be replaced with two 400ah LiFePo4 batteries.
The two white bits of foam board are templates for the two Multiplus inverter/chargers. They will go about here, but centered vertically on the wall. I need to get some 1/2" marine plywood for a backer board first.
These are two junction boxes to split the single 50a 120v in and out into two circuits, one for each Multiplus. They will mount to the floor below the two Multipluses. They are 6x6" boxes, but I think I’m going to get two 6x8 or even 6x10, since the 50a wire is a bitch to bend and that small space inside the box would be difficult to work with.
