I plan to use hand-thrown switches on most of my layout, but there’s a couple spots where that would be inconvenient. I’d like a simple, cheap and reliable way to operate them from a few feet away. One idea I’m toying with is using a cable mechanism (like on a 10-speed bike). Or maybe a pushrod.
Has anyone tried these? Any advice?
Ray Dunakin said:
I plan to use hand-thrown switches on most of my layout, but there's a couple spots where that would be inconvenient. I'd like a simple, cheap and reliable way to operate them from a few feet away. One idea I'm toying with is using a cable mechanism (like on a 10-speed bike). Or maybe a pushrod.Has anyone tried these? Any advice?
Haven’t tried it, but if it works on a bike it will work on the layout. BTW if I remember correctly the bike shops get both the wire cable and the sleeve in bulk. The trick will be to keep both ends in a position to discourage dirt and water from getting into the sleeve, that would mean the end bushings in the sleeve pointing slightly downwards.
Use only graphite powder for lubricant!
In engineering, we have a typical response to upper management’s often “impossible” requests:
We can make it cheap, fast (rapidly developed), and high quality,
Pick 2 of the 3…
Cheap and fast: Go to Pep Boys or a lawnmower repair shop, get an old-style manual choke cable and knob.
(If using outside, be sure to soak in grease and spray lube on every so often) The friction in the cable will hold the switch in the position you want most times.
Relatively cheap and fast: The bicycle cable, and have to make sure there is a “detent” spring somewhere to hold the turnout in place.
Fast and high quality: Air driven from Ez-air, use a cheap air tank for air supply. They have pneumatic toggle switches, all parts are weatherproof.
I’d go the last route. I have gone one step further on my layout, use electric solenoids to throw the switches, and DCC accessory controllers to run the solenoids. Look in the track section on my site: www.elmassian.com
Regards, Greg
Greg,
There are times when the KISS method will work better than the alternatives. This is one of them. 
I agree, for just 2 turnouts, a cable will be fine. First read about the idea in MR in the 60’s when many cars still had manual chokes.
Regards, Greg
Yes Ray…it works.
The least expensive way is to go to an auto parts shop and buy “Choke cables”
They come in varying lengths, and are less expensive than “Yuppy” bike shops. They are also much less expensive than an air system, for short runs.
I use several in locations that require them. I also make “Bell cranks” using flat corner brackets, with extra small holes drilled to accomodate the cable wire, in order to redirect the action 90 degrees.
Think about buying some plastic tubing to slip over the choke cables, to be filled with light oil in order to keep them lubricated out in the real world where they will rust and seize up. (Just seal the ends of the tubes after threading the rods through them with small clamps or drip system hose clamps.Like Greg, I remember the choke cable from the old MR articles of the 60’s. It’s cheap and quick.
But my preference is for LGB turnouts switched by the Aristo remote switch controller operated from my TE. It’s quick and top quality…but pricy…but a lot cheaper if you already have the TE and use LGB turnouts. It will also let you signal the turnout if that’s needed.
Warren
Someplace there’s a fellow who makes exactly what you’re talking about. Looks like a bike shifter cable at one end, and has a miniature interlocking tower lever on the other end … I can’t find the link, but it’s out there someplace.
Another method (same principle as a choke cable) if the distance isn’t too long is to use model airplane lead in wire inserted inside close fitting plastic tubing. I’ve used this method in the past on turnouts 2 or 3 feet away.
Insert the wire into the tubing with the wire sticking out both ends.
Secure the tubing down between the turnout and where the ground throw will go.
Bend the end that will be connected to the turnout to form a “Z” shape for a spring. Secure to turnout.
Cut and secure the other end to the ground throw and after adjusting the throw secure it down.
The tubing with the throw wire can even be secured curved somewhat but the clearance between tubing and wire must be minimal to keep the wire in bounds so it will throw properly. I’ve even had them in “S” shaped curves although the curves need to be gradual.
An advantage is that the cross section can be small enough to fit between the ties of an intervening track.
Those are VERY cool! SS wire, teflon jacket, no corrosion, no lubrication, keeps tension on switch. What more could you ask for. Do they ever look good!
Ray, you gotta get a couple of them! Of course I’ll come over and test them out for you!
Regards, Greg
I have three turnouts out of reach and choke/throttle cables work great. However, buy the better grade, they resist moisture better, the tubing is better wound and the calbe lides easier.