Thanks Dave. What is the notch in the fence beyond the blade for?
I’d also be interested in a detail shot of there the fence attaches to the rail. I might be able to fabricate something similar in the shop at work. I might have a chunk of 1/2x1/2 1/8 wall square tubing in my scrap bin at work. Best I have here at home is 2x2 which is a bit large!
If Jon remembers, I told him one of the reasons I sold the saw to him was because I hated the fence set up. I think I ended up clamping a straight edge to the fence to make it stronger, but Dave’s solution looks much better.
I think it’s a perfect saw for styrene just a little underpowered for wood.
That said, I really, really, really used the heck out of it until I upgraded to the Byrnes saw a few years back.
Mine is an older version, and the safety blade guard is small and pivots, when the fence is way close to the blade… it interferes with the blade guard, so added the clearance.
The big screw from fence to bracket, allows me to square the fence to the blade, and lock down tight.
I remember 
I think it came with a few other caveats too, but I insisted you take my money.
It’s exactly the same as mine, except the safety was removed before I got it, so I won’t have that issue. Just need to keep my fingers out of the blade.
While others are moving quickly, I am in tortoise mode. I spent some of yesterday playing with the MicroMark saw and looking to see if I had any aluminum laying around that I could make a better fence from. I found a piece of 1/8" wall x 3/4" square tube that looks promising. I’ll take it to work Monday where I have a drill press and a good cut–off saw. Going to try and use the attachment screw from the original, so I need to come up with something small enough that the screw will work. Probably some 1/8" wall angle. I will mechanically fasten it to the fence, but also use some high-tech adhesive to prevent it from pivoting around a single attachment point.
The saw will work fine as-is for the cross cuts I need, so I might begin cutting some of that today, but need to take a break to watch the Bills/Jets game. Go Bills 
The reason to set up for good rip cutting is the battens for the siding. They are going to be a real challenge as 1" x 2" in Fn3 is just a sliver of wood. I could use styrene, but I want to leave the wood unpainted and weather it similar to the prototype photo. It would be tough to get a consistent look across both materials without paint. That also rules out those aluminum strips I salvaged at work even though at a real 1/8" x about 1/32" they would be almost ideal.
If decided not to get hung up on battens and start building the structure. While falling asleep last night I realized some errors in my drawings, so that needs working out too.
Always fun!
You think your battens are small, I’ve got even smaller battens at 1/29… I’m figuring I’ll be using precut styrene strips. .030 x .060. Hopefully I’ll have enough or I’ll be blowing my whole budget on strips. Unless I can figure out a way to safety cut them on my table saw ( I used a scrap piece of wood over some 1/8 stock yesterday to hold it all down. Seemed to work okay but not sure how .030 stock will do).
As it turns out, the battens will not be a problem thanks to my scrap bin. First I grabbed some pretty small sticks that I had in lumber storage and ripped them to scale 2" thick. They came out all right, but still a little big to my eye. I did not measure them but the thin side was cut to 2.5mm (2" in Fn3). They are shown sitting on top of the deck frame which is made from 6x6 (7.5mm)…
Then I spied, in a mess on my garage work bench, some redwood veneer. At the beginning of COVID lock down I milled up some old signs to build a coal trestle. Rather than try and remove the paint and gold leaf, I cut as thin a strip as I could off the painted edge. Glad I’m a hoarder because they are still laying around…
This looks like the perfect thickness for the battens - maybe scale 3/4". My luck continued as the stock fence on the MicroMark saw handled this thin material with ease ripping it at 3mm or about 2.5 scale inches wide. I set the fence using scrap of 3mm PVC board and a small square…
And the result…
I used only about a third of the strip, so if I need to mill more it’s no problem.
And while I was at the saw I also cut the 6x6 timber to length for the deck frame and some 2x10 to length for the deck floor. This thing is going to be TINY…
That’s probably it for today.
Jon,
What I have done in the past is make a thicker batten and place them between the boards instead of on top of them. A thicker more weather resistant small piece of wood. Unless you really look hard you can’t tell the difference. Also on heavier base stock like 7/16 house siding I have sawn groves in the wood and set the batten strip down in with glue, again works well and can’t tell the difference.
But, I am glad to see that you are getting that saw up and running .
Looks like you are getting the job done. I need a good mini hobby saw.
That will be plan B when they fall off 
Jon:
Do you remember the cliffhanger build by Dennis Rayon that had board/batten siding? He made it by running the boards through the saw twice so that the board and the batten were actually formed on one strip and weren’t separate.
Sadly, the pictures need to be resurrected in that thread.
What I recall is that he first cut the boards to be twice as thick as he needed. Then he undercut the batten on one side, and overcut the board on the other side. Then you overlap one strip on the next and you get board/batten.
Might be nice to get Dennis to resurrect that topic if we can…
Actually, he used a router table, not a table saw. And Jon, for your amusement, you commented on how cool that process was and that you had just gotten a router table 
That is a great technique. If I was milling the lumber for this project it would be possible, although if I’m understanding what you mean it might require a dado blade. Or maybe he did it on a router. I do have an ancient and underutilized router table with a nice assortment of bits.
One of my goals with this build was to use as much as I could of the ‘store bought’ scale lumber from a collection I purchased a few years ago. I suppose if I had 6x8s or similar I could use that and mill it down.
I have not cut the siding yet, so I’ll take a look at both of these ideas and see if they will work for me.
Now that I look at the thread, I actually asked Dennis for detail on how it was done. Unfortunately I didn’t take any notes. But reading Dennis’ response I think I can figure out how he did it.
Funny that I don’t see any broken pictures in that thread - just none at all.
I was thinking about using a dato blade in my table saw to make battens as well but I don’t think that 1/8" styrene stock would be thick enough. Might try anyway. Or if the dato setup could even get close to the required spacing.
Dennis used a router table. Easier to set up smaller cuts than a dado and probably a little safer too.
I used Cedar fence boards and a dado blade on the table saw when i built the dry kiln building at the sawmill last spring, worked very well.
Began construction last night, but when I went to take pictures my battery was dead. Got a few this evening, but only one actually saved to my phone. Yes, it’s time for a new one.
So here is the completed deck. There is one more 6x6 running down the center, my picture of the back was one that didn’t make it. Since I won’t be able to access this floor once the walls go up, I needed to weather it now. I started by just beating up the floor, mostly with my fingernails and a few tools. Then I rubbed it in crushed coal which is very authentic since the prototype was right next to the coaling dock.
So here is where we are as of today…
Walls are next.
Again, there is no frame other than the deck, that is the reason why the floor is set in from the 6x6. Walls will attach directly to the floor.
I like your weathering technique, Jon.
