I was only nay saying so Devon would get mad, and work to prove me wrong. So I am more then happy to be proven wrong.
I knew David had a positive motivator tucked in there somewhere.
So I got the temporary lift bridge in.
I will have to trim the insides of these hinges or move the out ward. The cars pass through just fine but I hit the steam cylinders of my forney.
This latch is to keep the cars on the track when the bridge is up.
In addition to the lift bridge I got one of the three switches i needed done. The other two I decided to make into one big double switch with a right and left combined end to end. It is almost done. This will be my first fully scratch built switch and so far its coming out well. I used the switchcrafter points and frogs from the switches I got from bob and then made the rest myself. It will be done soon.
Pete Lassen said:
awesome!!! Cant wait for a chance to come look at your handiwork in person. All the nay sayers get ready for some crow sammiches as Devon is seving them up nice and hot to yāall. D
Devon, within 5 minutes of the golden spike being hammered in place a video should be posted with a date stamp, just to rub it in some more! lol all in fun right?
Your welcome to swing in anytime youāre (hey Joe I got it right) coming through on I-90 0r US-95. Iāll have a loco charged and ready.
Devon Sinsley said:
Pete Lassen said:
awesome!!! Cant wait for a chance to come look at your handiwork in person. All the nay sayers get ready for some crow sammiches as Devon is seving them up nice and hot to yāall. D
Devon, within 5 minutes of the golden spike being hammered in place a video should be posted with a date stamp, just to rub it in some more! lol all in fun right?
Your welcome to swing in anytime youāre (hey Joe I got it right) coming through on I-90 0r US-95. Iāll have a loco charged and ready.
1st youāre wasnāt write 2nd won be oakie doakie
Dang it.
Devon,
See, Iām not the only one looking out for you! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
John,
ā1st youāre wasnāt writeā Come on John, you can do better. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
Joe Zullo said:
Devon,
See, Iām not the only one looking out for you! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
John,
ā1st youāre wasnāt writeā Come on John, you can do better. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
I did with wonā¦ as in second won was oakie doakie (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
I did it just for you!
Devon- Looks great! Would a piano hinge solve your bridge clearance problem (smaller ābarrelā)? If you remove the white pvc from under the track and mount the track directly to the bridge material, the hinge could run the full width of the bridge. Maybe, mount the hinge to the front of facial board, rather than on top?
Just a thought.
Layout looks great! Keep up the good work. Looking forward to more pics and progress.
-Kevin.
dieseldude . said:
Devon- Looks great! Would a piano hinge solve your bridge clearance problem (smaller ābarrelā)? If you remove the white pvc from under the track and mount the track directly to the bridge material, the hinge could run the full width of the bridge. Maybe, mount the hinge to the front of facial board, rather than on top? Just a thought. Layout looks great! Keep up the good work. Looking forward to more pics and progress. -Kevin.
I thought about that Kevin and havenāt ruled it out. There was a method to the madness but since it didnāt quite work out as intended I might have to rethink it and go back to the piano hinge. The idea was use the 2X8 as the main support and make that permanent and then when I do the real bridge I was just going to attach it to the 2X8. The PVC was there to represent what would be the bridge deck. That would keep everything aligned when it came time for the real bridge.
It has to pivot at or very near the top of the rail in order for the two sides to clear one another. I could use a piano hinge where the barrel is just under the rail with enough gap to clear but not cause an issue. I think I can do all of that without ditching the PVC. A piano hinge may very well work as is, considering it canāt be any taller than the ties. If I place the piano hinge on the PVC between ties (one on the fixed side and one half on the lifting side) then I think it might work and look and perform much better.
John Caughey said:
Joe Zullo said:
Devon,
See, Iām not the only one looking out for you! (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
John,
ā1st youāre wasnāt writeā Come on John, you can do better. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)
I did with wonā¦ as in second won was oakie doakie (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-laughing.gif)
I did it just for you!
Thanks John. Itās good to have friends I think .(http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-undecided.gif)
There are offset hinges that basically move the track apart before lifting.
You need to use those and then the hinge can be below the rails enough not to hit anything.
I think thereās several threads on this, Iād google āoffset hingeā
http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/24808-bridge-hinges.html
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
There are offset hinges that basically move the track apart before lifting.
You need to use those and then the hinge can be below the rails enough not to hit anything.
I think thereās several threads on this, Iād google āoffset hingeā
http://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/24808-bridge-hinges.html
Greg
Thanks Greg. I was looking at them and was thinking they wouldnāt work because I was trying to mount them under the 2X8. But on top of the 2X8 and under the track never crossed my mind. I even have some in the garage. This was basically my original plan but couldnāt figure on how to make it work. Thatās what I get for trying to reinvent the wheel.
After looking at your link that is totally different than what I am thinking. I am thinking offset cabinet hinges which I think will work.
Or if i could find this
Regarding your high tech car stop. Something hinged to flop over the rail, is more positive than a pivot to stop doo hickey. {Spell check questioned ādooā have they never heard of dogs?}(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-innocent.gif)
In my olden daze I remember reading about a guy using nylon filament as an axle check. A thin spring steel wire might be secure enough against the wind and still allow for automatic over ride with a tug ā¦ (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)If itās always in position, youāll have fewer worries during operationsā¦
John
There are also āknife hingesā where you can put them on the edges of the boards:
Hereās another exampleā¦ as the pages states, the key is having the hinge point above the rail, so the rails separate (horizontally) before swinging up (vertically). By making a platform so that the hinges are far enough from the track itself, you solve the problem:
or make it like in this scetch.
(note position of rail-gap and hinge on the left of the pic.)
Or, slope the tail track slightly away from the Wye.
easy way, use a shove car, no locos allowed on or within 1 car length of the bridge.
Well it was only a month or so ago I was complaining about the rain and cold. Now itās so damn hot I only get a couple hours in the morning and a couple in the evening. I donāt do 100 well. But I. Making progress. Pics tomorrow
Here is my first truly custom built switch. I rebuilt two of the ones I got from Bob using the original pieces and new ties. But this one is all mine. I needed a right and a left in very close proximity so I decided why not one unit. I have it installed already that picture will come tomorrow. This is just a teaser.
When I am escaping the heat I have been playing with my fish tank. I have had freshwater aquariums for over 20 years. I have dabbled with salt water off and on with poor results due to cutting corners and not having the best equipment. Well I have wanted a reef tank and we bought this 29 gallon and made sure we bought all the equipment we would need to make it work. I have an empty 100 gallon that I want to make into a reef so this my trail run before setting that one up. This tank is about 6 months old now and it i very healthy and growing. We added three new pieces of coral today.
Whereās the train? You planning on using that switch in the tank? Are the fish BLET?