Well, I am not convinced. It looks like a box to me. Until I see something railroady…
I still contend there is more railroad stuff in my 9 page rebuttal thread, then in your 20 page build thread. Wow, 20 darn pages already…I have a lot of catching up to do.
Oh now your just being picky. That’s Railroady as hell.
If by rim joist you mean the end cap board thingy on the end of the joists well I am butting the siding up to them and then the trim board will be attached to them as well.
I don’t know all the technical terms but I do think I know what your talking about. I didn’t really think about it
I just like having a solid nailing surface for my sheeting, and trim boards. Now when you nail up your trim you are going to have to try and hit the joists.
Its a box. Once its further along it may become railroady, but right now its a box.
Today I just sat on my butt. I blame it on the rain. Butt in reality, I just chose to be lazy today. So you done did more then I done railroad wise, if, in fact, that box is railroad related.
Well hitting the joists is easy peasy I am doing it now and it can see them. So it’s a none issue. But I wish I had at least on the angled part Beacuase I will have to land the cut ends of the PVC boards on something and they may not hit a joist. So as a fix I will be adding blocks between the joists at least on the angled portion. I could add them all the way around if need be
Devon Sinsley said:
LOOK RAILROADY STUFF!!!
Here is the framing for the yard cabinet. I have already got some of the siding on it.
Devon Sinsley said:
Randy Lehrian Jr. said:
Really dig the look of the triple batten Devon. The place is looking good. Having seen what happens to my code 250 aluminum in the hot summer sun, I’ll encourage you to use lots of expansion joints. I just use rail joiners. I would recommend every 10 to 15 feet. on the 10 foot side if the section is dead straight. Ive witnessed one borderline nasty sun kink, and one other so so. I have to add two expansion joints in to cure that soon. Good luck, and have fun laying that track!
Randy, how much of a joint are you leaving?
Hey Devon, with joints around 10 to 15 feet apart I’ll see an 1/8 to 3/16 gap at 60 degrees. They will be tight shut at full temp. We have many days over 90 here and my entire railroad is in full sun for 8 hours a day. I’m looking forward to more trees around the railroad at our new residence. I full float also. Just track laying in crusher fines, no hold downs.
Just start putting it down, It will tell you within a few days where you screwed up and you can fix it without too much fuss. Just take off the clamps, file 3/16 of the rail ends and put a rial joiner back in. Boom, done, and back to running trains.
Devon,
I don’t see any access points from the top or sides, do you plan any? At some point your going to be crawling in to lay track or fix a derailment. How about a slope in the roof, with your climate you’re going to want to shed water. Think about ventilation also. With the size of your box I’d opt for plywood with rolled asphalt roofing. Looks like you’re going to be buying some knee pads
Dan,
This is a cabinet for storage. Access doors along the opposite side from the picture. The top will be flat PVC (going back to the original plan) and serves as the yard with 7 tracks. It’s 60 inches wide and accessible from both sides leaving a max reach of 30 inches. It’s 30 inches tall to the top. There will be an enclosed engine house on top as well covering two of the tracks.
Progress was made on the cabinet. I got it sheeted.
And then after taking suggestion on doing the top I added some strips of plywood to give the thing a crown. Its three layers in the center, then two, then one, then 0. It gives it a rise of 1" in the center. I sure hope this works. They are 10" on center. I am hoping that the 1/2 PT ply (yes David it is the thinner stuff but I am hoping it will flex) will bend over it. If not I will have to lay it with a seam down the center.
once the PT ply is down I will use the rubber roofing/pond liner materiel as one sheet with no seams over the whole thing. Now on the edges I will apply 1X2 PVC blocks with gaps and then a 1X2 solid PVC piece creating a gutter to hold the ballast. I will use window screen material to screen the gaps to keep the ballast in but let he water drain. The whole thing if goes as planned will slop in three directions. The idea then will be to fill it with ballast (1 1/2" deep at the edges and 1/2" deep at the center) and then the track will free float on that. I think this plan should work won’t it.
Now under the bench Iwas going to build fancy shelves and what not but I decided to leave it the way it is. I plan on building car trays anyway and this leaves free space to place buildings and whatever.
I got a present from UPS. 50 sections of track. Whoot whoot!!!
Huzzah! Railroady stuff. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)
This should start to appease the RR gods, maybe even the King will start to think it looks Railroady
Devon, if you are layering the thin stuff, put some construction adhesive between the layers. You should be fine, because its not thin and unsupported, its laminated.
Edit to say that it looks like a plywood sheathed box to me. Now maybe if you added some scale siding, scale winders, a door, maybe a balcony, some painted on signs, a few scale automobiles parked out front, some scale figures…
David Maynard said:
Devon, if you are layering the thin stuff, put some construction adhesive between the layers. You should be fine, because its not thin and unsupported, its laminated.
Edit to say that it looks like a plywood sheathed box to me. Now maybe if you added some scale siding, scale winders, a door, maybe a balcony, some painted on signs, a few scale automobiles parked out front, some scale figures…
When you are saying thin, how thin are you talking. The stuff I am looking at as thin is 15/32 or basically 1/2". I wouldn’t call that thin. But I think we might have an altered plan thanks to Dennis. In the other thread I think he has a plan that will solve all my problems. Either with the same ply and rubber or using some old corrugated plastic roof panels I have. We will see. I like his plan.
And the plywood sheathed box now has piles of track on it.
Half inch should be fine. Thinner then that and it will sag and warp over time.
Your coffin looks heavy …
I am a big boy
You sure about that?
Oh, you mean large. ok
David Maynard said:
You sure about that?
Oh, you mean large. ok
Yes large
Devon, when my boss put me downtown I lost a lot of weight. Walking for work all day will do that to you. Now that I am driving again, my pants are getting smaller again. Its that darn dryer.
