Large Scale Central

Building grab irons/rails

Modeling
#1

I’m (slowly) restoring some of my fathers old Bachmann, USA Trains, AristroCraft freight cars. These have been left outside in the elements for years. I’m now storing them in an outdoor storage bin. A lot of the plastic grab rails (irons) have been weakened by the sun and are breaking off.

I’d like to replace these by building my own grab rails (I know I can get quality ones from Ozark, but I’d prefer to try and make them myself - I’m a “10 foot looks good enough” type of modeler).

I’ve seen some suggestions burried within other posts such as:

http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/12675/another-ventilated-boxcar/view/post_id/119325

and

http://largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/17324/d-rgw-6000-series-flat-car/view/post_id/199060

My question is what type of metal rod/wire should I use. The latter topic mentioned using 16 AWG wire, but I’m afraid that it is too soft and once I go to reach and pick up the freight car, I’ll bend the wire and the grab irons will not be straight enough.

Any suggestions on the size and type of metal rod I should look at using?

(I measured two different cars I had and it seems that the sizes are as follows: 0.062 OD for the USAT and 0.072 for the Bachmann)

Thanks,

Matt

#2

I prefer brass rod - typically 1 mm or .040" - you can use a #60 drill bit for the holes.

The brass rod holds up very well to handling.

In 1:20 scale, it would measure .81" - which might be a tad narrow for the real thing, but I like the way it looks.

You WILL want to use a jig of some sort, and Bob has a very nice one in his post.

#3

Matt,

I don’t believe I have ever seen a prototype narrow gauge piece of rolling stock (not fresh out of rebuild) with perfectly straight grabs and handrails. I prefer the ‘beat up’ look of narrow gauge equipment.

The wire, has been somewhat work hardened by gripping one end in my bench vice and the other in my cordless drill (6-8 feet long). I then run the drill slowly while pulling hard on the drill. This has the double effect of both hardening the copper and straightening the wire (for the most part). I can not take credit for this being my idea, I read it either here on LCS or on MLS.

I found the copper wire idea appealing to me because A) copper wire can be purchased at any home center, B) all my local hobby shops have closed and C) Michaels / Hobby Lobby almost NEVER have any brass wire/rod that is usable for what I am doing. That leaves mail order and I don’t wish to spend more on the shipping that the item.

From my FWIW dept.

Bob C.

#4

didn’t see that tip before Bob, but I will hold onto it.

#5

When I built my covered hoppers I used wire that is used as supports for insulation since I had a box of it sitting around. It is thick though. This wire is very strong and hard to cut. I had to use a bolt cutter then bent it in a vise. A better wire for grab handles might be the type used for a drop ceiling. I do like the copper wire idea.
For the stirrup steps I have used electric conduit staples.
I’m also a 5-10 foot kind of guy so I usually don’t get too bogged down with the fine details.

#6

Thanks Bob. I’m going to give the wire tip a try. I’ve got wire laying around so I can try that out soon (vs. ordering or checking the supply of the LHS).

Sounds like it is a personal preference and one just goes with what works for themselves.

I wasn’t sure if the copper wire would be better off or brass rod or something else.

Todd, That’s a good idea also (assuming I had some laying around :-)).

#7

For grab irons, I use 1/16th inch aluminum rod, available at most hobby shops, and some hardware stores.

For steps, I use 1/16th by 1/32 inch brass strap.

I used a jig, but it was only a couple of nails pounded into a board to get the 90 degree turns. I built the plastic jig shown on this (?) board.

But I scaled it down a bit, as I use the jig for everything from 1:29 to 1:32.

#8

Another supply for brass “rod” might be a welding supply. You can purchase 36" lengths of brass in 1/16 and 3/32 and possibly 1/8. I think you have to purchase it by the pound.

Welding supplies also carry aluminum rod in the same sizes. The downside of aluminum is it comes in different hardness grades, and for what we would be using it for, be sure to get the softer hardness or it will crack if you try to bend it too tight.

Bob C.

#9

Thanks guys! I used 14 AWG copper wire (from indoor wire I had left over - just had to strip the insulation off). I also used Todd’s idea of electric conduit staples (again that I had left over). After a quick rattle can paint job of flat black, I now have a nice supply of extra parts (stirrup steps and grab handles) for 6+ freight cars. As my supply runs low, I’ll do another quick project and re-stock my supply.

#10

I got a spool of .035" MIG welding wire. It’s a good prototype diameter (around 3/4"), and is plenty stiff to stand up to handling. I also have more on one spool than I’ll ever use in a lifetime of bending grab irons. I have also been using brass wire, as it’s easier to bend the loops at the end for inserting NBW pins to hold them in place.

Later,

K