Large Scale Central

Building a Track Powered Crossing

Track and Trestles
#1

Most of you have seen my crossings for livesteam and battery. Ray (Dunakin) needs a crossing for his RR where a siding crosses the mainline. I want as few gaps as possible in the rails so it will be reliable for the power thru the rails and integrity in the crossing itself won’t be lost. First I made a template.

I glued up the ties and will get them stained.

I milled gaps in the rail that will go on the mainline. I could of used a grinder as well, but the milling machine makes it easier.

That is it for now till the stain dries.

#2

OK, Rodney. A step by step crossing. Looking good.

#3

hmmm, this could get interesting… looking forward to the progress, Rodney… :slight_smile:

#4

I got the ties stained and had to add some ties to it. I spiked all the rail that will have power.

(http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/4782/dscf1373ey.jpg)

Here is a closer look at the rails with gaps.

(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2522/dscf1374p.jpg)

Using a wheelset making sure that the backside of them will not touch the other rails on the inside. (sorry for the fuzzyness)

(http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7955/dscf1376yv.jpg)

(http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/5073/dscf1375x.jpg)

Next I’ll be spiking down the guard rails with plastic rails.

#5

Guess I’ll have to check this from home. Photos are coming up with the red Xs on my browser at work.

Thought I should mention, just in case others are having the same trouble.

David Meashey

#6

Dave, that must be, because the pics are stored on image shack.
for more than half a year i only can see that frozen frog of theirs, instead of pics.

#7

Korm and Dave
I’ve never had a problem using Imageshack. Been using it for over 4 years now. If need be I
will open a photobucket account.

Rodney

#8

I used plastic some plastic rail for the guard rail. He there are all spiked down

(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/330/dscf1377f.jpg)

(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9073/dscf1378y.jpg)

Using 1/8" X 1/8" pieces of styrene strips for the flangways. I clamp them in place. Using .020 X .250 strips, put a bend in it to form the outside rail form for the JB Weld.

(http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/2212/dscf1380t.jpg)

(http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/2405/dscf1382x.jpg)

I had to take up the flangeway and pour in the JB weld. Replaced it and spread it around to make sure every place had enough. Don’t worry of how it looks like. it will be filed to final shape. Here is the first frog filled with JB weld.

(http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6494/dscf1383h.jpg)

#9

JB Weld is an insulator? I never knew that. I couldn’t figure out where you were going with the styrene until the JB went in.

Looking great Rodney.

#10

Looks great Rodney!
Any Idea on the lifespan of JB weld before it starts to break down? I would assume it will last awhile but just curious.

Terry

#11

This is really looking great, Rodney! Thanks again for your assistance.

#12

I’m really liking this thread Rodney. You are doing baby steps to show how you scratch build. It is really helpful for people like me who have never scratchbuilt any track before and am a little intimidated to do it. This thread gives me confidence to give it a try.

#13

Didn’t get anything done on it this weekend but will finish it up when I get back in town.

Thanks for the comments

Terry
My dad fixed a John Deere block with JB weld over 40 years ago and it is still holding up.
I have a 5 hp racing Briggs that I fixed 8 years ago and is still solid as a rock.
That good enough for me.

Jake
You need to just jump right into it. It may take a couple of tries to get the hang of it.

Rodney

#14
Rodney Edington said:
Terry My dad fixed a John Deere block with JB weld over 40 years ago and it is still holding up. I have a 5 hp racing Briggs that I fixed 8 years ago and is still solid as a rock. That good enough for me.
Wow! I guess the stuff does hold up well.
#15
Rodney Edington said:
My dad fixed a John Deere block with JB weld over 40 years ago and it is still holding up. I have a 5 hp racing Briggs that I fixed 8 years ago and is still solid as a rock. That good enough for me.
;)
#16

Better check the JB weld you are using. A friend of mine just used it and it conducted electricity. There’s a number of different versions, so can’t tell you which one he used, but it conducted electricity.

Greg

#17

Huumm…It is marked in 2 parts hardner and STEEL??

#18

From the JBWeld website (www.JBWeld.com) in the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) -

Q: Will J-B Weld conduct electricity?

A: No. J-B Weld is not considered to be a conductor. It is an insulator.

#19

…and Ric, you’ve never been lied to before…:slight_smile:

…and my diesel pickup gets 45 mpg…(sitting in the driveway :)…)

Bob C.

#20
Bob Cope said:
...and Ric, you've never been lied to before......:)

…and my diesel pickup gets 45 mpg…(sitting in the driveway :)…)

Bob C.


The list of stuff I don’t know is endless and people prove me wrong every day, but I have played with quite a bit of different types of epoxy. Some are slow drying, some are fast drying, some are flexible and some are ceramic. Some can be released with the proper application of heat, some can’t. You can burnish it so it looks like what ever metal you need it to. You can paint it and stain it, but you’ve got to cover it to keep it from deteriorating in sun light or other u/v light.

My personal favorites are from W.E.S.T. Systems of Bay City, Michigan - http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

Yes, we do sell it and ship worldwide (sorry, I couldn’t help myself)