Large Scale Central

Building a New Bridge

Cutting one side one my new bridge
10foot long and 2 track wide 42" tall
In the middle, the engineering dept calculated all the factors, length, possible weight of two heavy
Engines with loaded cars, the weight of the bridge and weight of the track, all was calculated and the wind factor of 80 mph was added to the numbers.
All the above sounds impressive, the truth is this is what I drew up one nite in my recliner and sent to plasma cutter files.
Loaded a sheet of 11 gauge 4’ x 10’ steel on plasma, plotted drawing, pushed the button, and away it goes. I love CNC equipment.
More to Follow

Placing a 1" strap on the top edge of the bridge side, this makes it appear to be larger beams
spot welded in here and sanded down in picture Below

Dennis,

That’s an outstanding bridge!
How much will it weigh as completed, and how will it be moved and supported in the garden railway? Do you have a picture as to where it will be located?

Thank you,
-Ted

WOW! (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-cool.gif)

That is one impressive structure. Did you design it on your own or is it based on a real bridge somewhere?

Ted Doskaris said:

Dennis,

That’s an outstanding bridge!
How much will it weigh as completed, and how will it be moved and supported in the garden railway? Do you have a picture as to where it will be located?

Thank you,
-Ted

Thanks Ted

Weight? don’t know , will weigh before I get ready to set, I will carry to RR with tractor and loader. Don’t have picture of where it will set, Yet, thanks for the reminder, I usually think about pictures after the job is done, and I say,CRAP, wished I would have taken pictures.

Tod Thanks for the compliments

My design, drawn in sketchup

Dennis

Below are a few pictures of how the 1" strap was applied to the top of the side, all in one piece.

The strap is welded along the edge, at the joints, i use a cutoff wheel to cut about 1/2 way through and bent at the joint.

Using visegrip clamp to hold tight and in place then welded.

I was asked on FB if i only welded the short welds or came back and welded all the way through.

No way to weld all the way, waste of weld and time, and then the heat would twist the frame like a piece of spaghetti .

Welding all the way can be done without twisting but requires lots of time and skill on how to prevent the twisting.

I will not get into how to prevent the twisting, quite complicated.

The unwelded crack at the joint gets body puddy to prevent moisture from entering and dripping rust down the sides.

The inside is sealed with silicone caulking to prevent moisture entering on the inside. The caulking will not be seen, and in covers with paint very good.

 

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/36445417466_7bbc535d23_b.jpg)

I want to know is that a hovering welder…(http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-surprised.gif)

Looks like it. Anti-gravity can be very useful.

I own a antigravity making business, we float everything, LOL LOL i designed a double folding arm that holds the welder on the end

and a plasma cutter behind it. It it 17ft long then the welder, now that requires a lot counter balance weight to hold that up.

we have two of these back to back, with a 12" pipe between them, that has a 2000lb 16ft long jib crane, mounted in the floor and welded to 3 heavy roof trusses it swings 360 degrees serving 2 welding stations. So the welder support arms will move in 180 degree arc, making it quite handy

Dennis