I’m waiting to see how you do the main rods !
Bruce,
What style mainrods do you have/want?
Barry - BBT
I haven’t really figured out how to do the main rods at all. The prototype is tapered and has an edge.
Right now, I’m thinking of just going with the same brass as I used on the side rods. It wouldn’t have the taper, or the ridge, but I’m at a loss.
I usually recoment bullhead rail for these applications, come in a range of heitghts. I use code 200 and 180.
One supplier is http://www.cliffbarker.me.uk/
Still not tapered though, but it does seem like you could taper it ‘from the outdside’ as it appears the groove is the same width all the way?
Perhaps careful use of a belt sander? (I know, ‘careful’ and ‘belt sander’ should not be used in the same sentence)
I agree–it looks like maybe you could take a piece of rail and taper one side. The groove is the same width but the flanges(or whatever you’d call the “not-grooved” part is narrower on the top.
Easy for me to say–I couldn’t do it!
Some channel stock tapered to one end?
Jon.
Here it is with a straight rod.
Once it’s painted black, it may not be such a big deal.
Looks good to me. I’ve thought of adding a thin piece on top and bottom, just a bit wider. Could taper it first.
In all humility, knowing I could not do better myself, I think that rod does not look beefy enough
I personally like the way it looks left flat. I would not worry about it. Couldnt you take a dremel and shave that notch in there?
Jerry,
Leave well enough alone! Besides, you won’t notice it from a galloping horse.
It sucks…just send me the model as you will never be happy with it!
:lol:
Seriously though…I remember (and still on going) doing stuff on my real home and wanting to be 100% correct historically wise. I used to get so disgusted but moved on … I don’t see those issues I was so hung up on a few years later.
Now… I believe you stated to me when making a model of my home …“Don’t study the prototype so much” or something like that. Ken Burnt also stated in that same thread “if you don’t tell us where your mistakes are made we will never know”??
Editing to go back on the thread and find your own words of encouragement!
http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=11625&p=5
Think about that!
If that doesn’t help just drink alcohol heavily.
mike omalley said:I gotta agree. Good enough for us kitbashing schmos but its not up to Bruce Chandler standards. The rod on my Forney is beefier than that.
In all humility, knowing I could not do better myself, I think that rod does not look beefy enough
-Brian
To my eye, unpainted, it looks a bit anorexic. Whether or not it’s worth trying to correct that would depend on how much trouble the fix would be.
BTW, I saw your article in the new issue of GR. Nice work. Those magnets must be pretty powerful for their size.
How “tall” is the rod? I do have some bullhead rail code 200 here, if it mathces I could easily put in an envelope and send your way Bruce?
If it doesn’t fit it could reside in your parts-box until you found a use for it 
I did order a few yards from Cliff Barker while I was at it. By the way he now also does code 250 for gauge 3 (2.5" gauge) that we can use as well.
Rune, It’s 3/16"… I guess the bull head would look a bit thicker, but the real problem would be attaching it. I really don’t want to build my own ends.
They do have some 1/4" rectangular tubing that might work. Or, I might be able to come up with some other idea.
Bruce Chandler said:I understand
Rune, It's 3/16"... I guess the bull head would look a bit thicker, but the real problem would be attaching it. I really don't want to build my own ends.
Anyway, my offer still stands if you should want to see how it looks, I will have to see if I have some code 180, I am not actually certain, I did order the code 200, but I got a sample of the 180 as well, but it may not be long enough.
All the best
Hehe. Thanks for the offer. I’ve got a few things under consideration. One, of course, is just painting the dang thing as is.
Bruce Chandler said:
Hehe. Thanks for the offer. I’ve got a few things under consideration. One, of course, is just painting the dang thing as is.
I was going to suggest that. Once it’s painted it won’t stick out at all, especially if you go with the all black common carrier era paint scheme and forget the silver rod ends and white tires. You could always suggest the recess by using an off shade of black to paint a stripe down the center of the rod. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/EBT-Fall-09_05-1200.jpg]
(http://lsc.cvsry.com/EBT-Fall-09_05-720.jpg)
[/url] Click to Enlarge
Bruce Chandler said:I went back through from page 1 and whatever you decide I personally won't know either way. I just think it's cool you have built such a hellish model and were all ready to see it finalized! Only thing I can add is that your not really modeling the EBT #12 as it will be a J&B loco so anything can go? Right?? Forgot to add....the rod is brass and if you want a recess in the center so badly why not heat the rod an stamp a recess down the middle. Doesn't have to be deep just enough to create a shadow line down the rod.
Hehe. Thanks for the offer. I've got a few things under consideration. One, of course, is just painting the dang thing as is. ;)
You have till the weekend to finish it!!