Also try some 303 on the bar it will help. Later RJD
Hi everyone
Your comments have been helpful.
Sorry for the delay but we have been moving along with a new part. I say ‘we’ as I was not alone with the development efforts. Fred Mills and Stan Ames collaborated with me. Some snail mail delivery used up some time too as the sample moved back and forth between us.
A new part has been made in 1/8’’ black acrylic. UV safe as per the list of requirements. The manufacturing process is by laser cutting. The least expensive way for a production method of this part.
The part has the same length and width as the original. The holes for the point rails are made to receive the original brass sleeves.
The end holes are circular and the ends are thicker than the original 1/32’’ tab.
One end of the throw bar has the circular hole in the same location as the original part. The other end has a repositioned circular hole for those who use a Bachman manual turnout switch stand. The hole is in proper placement with the reach of the standoff.
The round hole at either end provides a better linkage point between the standoff rod of the switch device and the throw bar - no unnecessary movement or free play as was the case with the large rectangular hole.
The product is on a ‘card’ of 10 pieces similar to a pack of paper matches. This not only for the retailer’s display but also for the modeler’s convenience of using and storing the product until needed over and over again until 10 turnouts have been repaired. Just break one off the card when a repair is needed. Place the card back in a convenient location for next time.
The pack of 10 pieces is part number GLX-ATB-10 and retails for $9.99 in addition to a flat shipping & handling fee of $10.00 (these days, Canadian currency is maybe 20% below par with the USD).
My website is www.glxscalemodels.com.
I have a few available at the moment and can have more produced in a short time as demand calls for more.
More pictures are in my profile and album. Sorry, I am learning how to swiftly use this forum site. Posting pictures is still tricky…
Regards,
Gilbert
Nice to see replacements available.
Meanwhile, to fix mine, I did not want to remove the turnout from the adjoining tracks (soldered jumper wires), so figured I would “lift it” a bit, remove the two screws from under the throw bar, turn the bar 180 degrees and reassemble it. Mine had broken at the “rectangular window of engagement.”
Easier said than done. Even when elevated ~6", it is difficult to get a screwdriver on the small heads (upside down) and turn them without stripping out the heads.
Plan B:
Make a new “tab” with a hole and CA it to the existing stub. I used a strip of thick copper, trimmed to size, well sanded (for lots of tooth), drilled a hole in it for the motor engagement, cleaned everything well with alcohol, and CA’ed it in place right onto what was left of the old tab. This actually raises the hole a bit for better engagement of the motor. Then I covered the strip with CA to reduce oxidation over time.
Seems to work fine.
Sold, 2 sets of 10 ordered… will check them out
Greg
Greg, I await your expert review. I should have a few in my spares bins, just in case.
Just reading his description, you can tell he researched the requirements well.
I’ll report back when I get them.
Regards, Greg