Since Aristo doesn’t exist, anyone know of replacements for the throwbar of an Aristo wide turn switch? Or am I going to have to make my own? I had a spare switch and needed it to replace a tight radius switch. After installing it I then realized that both of the thin ends had broken off so I have nothing to connect a switch machine to.
Should I make it out of styrene?
What does it look like? Perhaps one can be 3D printed at your local library for cheap. I made several drawbars to connect Hartland’s small gons together. Actually if you send me the measurements, I can probably draw you the piece in an hour or so. I’ll send the file (it’ll be a .stl file, which you probably can’t open without Cura or some other 3D Cad program). Find someone with a 3D printer and go for it.
They don’t need to be fancy. If you are running track power they need to be non-conducting. A strip of 3mm PVC with a hole drilled in the end would do it. Or as you say, make from styrene. Don’t worry about duplicating the exact shape. That thin strip has always been teh weak part.
I would not use styrene outdoors, it will decompose easily in the sun.
Maybe some delrin? I think the black stuff has UV resistance.
(by the way, Aristo admitted no UV protection in the throwbar plastic)
Greg
Thanks Dick for the offer. If I can find someone or a local library that has a 3D printer, I’ll get back with you.
@greg: thanks, I’m aware. I had checked out your site first before posting.
I went ahead with using styrene anyway. The switch doesn’t get switched a lot and isn’t in direct sun for very long. I might be able to get away with what I made. If not, then it’s to plan B.
Hey Matt, Check out this thread dealing mostly with a switch machine. On page 6 near the top Dave Taylor posted a few pictures of what he has done to get around this problem. Hopefully it will be of some use.
X
http://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/23285/switch-machine-project/view/page/6
Matt, hit it with some black paint, that will help.
Still styrene is pretty soft. If you make the ends as thin as the stock ones, I think you will have problems.
Maybe some fiberglas sheet, build it up with a couple of layers for the thick part.
Greg
Thanks guys. Greg I made it a bit thicker, and you are correct, i still might a problem. If I do, then live and learn
Most 3D printers use PLA plastic filament, which is hard and pretty robust. “Conventional Wisdom” (equal parts fiction and speculation, IMHO) is that it has no UV inhibitors in it and will not hold up in the sun. I’ve got a strip of it screwed to a south facing wood fence in my yard to test that wisdom. But a shot of spray paint will make it last a long time.
Go online to “Tinkercad.com” and you can design your drawbar in about 20 minutes or less.
Yours is a perfect application of this technology for model railroaders: constructing parts for out of production equipment. Next you’ll be printing gears!
If PLA doesn’t hold up, some printers will print with ABS (the stuff Legos are made of). It is supposed to have UV inhibitors in it, but I’ve not done the research yet.
The photo below is the start of a small train station. The foundation AND wall are printed (in many parts) on a 3D printer.
Sometime you have to do with what we have laying around. We have repaired quite a few of them. We just drill one small hole on just inside of the rails and bend some alum. wire. We make a loop on each end of the throw bar. It will last a long time and keep our R.R. running.
Here is photo of one that is about 10yrs old or more. I left one side on this one with out a loop and just made it a 90 deg. bend. I use the bend end with my finger to get the rock out after using the blower to clean off the tracks. The early SW. run from Aristo I have, the loops broke off very easy or the sun would played heck with them and just brake off.
Whats nice about using a LGB SW Motor is It has a little bit longer throw than a Aristo SW Motor. So to get a easy throw and let the motor start to move before the throw if to make a little larger loop out of the Alum. wire. This give it a better movement with less voltage for a long distance to get power to the LGB Motor.
I have use reg.cheap Phone cable up to over 50 ft. and able to throw the SW. for another location with the haft-wave down to about 6v. I couldn’t do that with the reg. Aristo SW throw bar. due to just no room for any movement to let the Motor to start. Just my two cents worth idea.
Why not use some Nylon strips from someplace like McMaster-Carr? Seems pretty inexpensive and a better bet than styrene. Comes in black, too.
You can get a 3" x 12" x 1/8" section for just under $6. If you make each throwbar 3" long x 1/4" wide that would be enough for more than 40 of them.
A most useful post Noel. I guess many of us either have had or will get throw issues.
Helluva idea Noel, can I have your permission to put it on my web site?
Greg
Greg Elmassian said:
Helluva idea Noel, can I have your permission to put it on my web site?
Greg
You know… Greg… you never have to ask… just do it.
Thanks Noel:
http://www.elmassian.com/trains/track-aamp-switches/aristo-track
about half way down.
Greg
There may be some “Improved” replacement throw bars, available “Soon”…keep watching the OVGRS web pages for announcements …
I had one of my AristoCraft throw bars loose its loop while getting ready for open house last Wed. I figured that the loop on the other side is still good, so I’ll just move the motor to the other side of the turnout.
But Noel has a great idea, and if my wires aren’t long enough to reach the other side of the turnout, that will do the trick. I may do it anyway just to avoid hassling with the wires.
But if stronger replacement bars become available, I would be up for at least one, and maybe three.
I’ve replaced all my broken throwbars with a brass strip.
That’s what we do here, Steve; but not everyone is free of Track Power, and requires an insulated throw bar.
Anyone that has an Aristo switch, will sooner or later need replacement throw bars, unless they are indoors, and away from UV damage.
Some throw bars have been known to crack at the screw holes where the screws to the point rails go through. Very early Aristo switches were the worst, with those extra springs that rusted out.
Tell me if I’m wrong, but I think the throw bars are the same on all Aristo switches, or can use the same throw bars. (#6’s, Wide Radius, and 2 foot radius)
I have read that they did change over the years, but all will accept the latest offering.
Fred Mills
Gee, I am lucky that mine are still in good shape. I guess the coat of spray paint, and being in the shade of my railroad’s almost scale trees has helped extend the life of my throw-bars.
Fred, please let us know if/when a replacement comes available. I would like to have spares in my parts box, just in case.