Large Scale Central

Bridge Guard Rails (special attn. Bob McCown...)

Track and Trestles
#1

I’ve seen the photos of the bridges in your thread to which you added guard rails. You may be able to solve a geometry problem for me …


Here you see the “high bridge” on the Slate Creek. When the temporary bridge is replaced with the real one, it’ll have wooden ties and hand spiked rail … and I want to add guard rails. However, as you can see, there’s a curve at each end of the bridge, give or take a few inches.

While guard rails are pretty easy to lay out on straight track, how do you make the part where they come together to a point work on a curve, and make it look like it’s supposed to?

Matthew (OV)

ps. As my photos never work out, if the above won’t autolink/insert, see:

#2

Bend the curves first, then pick a spot on a tie and bend the inside edges to that. Mark the over lay twice… cut once to make sure you are on correct side of line. I usually make 2 make marks/lines and cut between them. I’m less likely to miss mark when I’m laying out than I am to pick the correct side when I get in a know it all phase of mind and grab my saw, your mileage may vary.

The bend does not need to be exact, guard rails kept the wheels on the ties, not on the rails. Easier to re-rail than pluck out of a gorge.

Happy Rails,

John

#3

Matthew

You can always put the guard rails on the outside which was common for NG bridges in snow country

Stan

#4

Huh!?! No foolin’. That makes my life soooo much easier.

Terry

#5

I’ve never seen that before! Looks like they’ve never been tested before though, as even the older ties look good! I worry a bit about the orientation of those joint bolts on the guard rail…not sure if they would shear off or create havoc!

Regarding the curved inner guard rail…I wouldnt worry too much about the geometry. You can use multiple rails if needed. Also, the rails don’t need to come to a point. They need only to be bent inward enough to catch a wayward wheel.

#6

Many of the ones I have seen don’t even come all the together, into a point. They just curve inward.

#7

Once again, overthinking it! Thanks guys.

Matthew (OV)

#8

The RGS used outside guard rails most often.

#9

Most times, on bridges, the railroads use inside guard rails and timbers on the outside. But I have also seen bridges without the outside timbers. Also they tend to use a lighter pound rail for the inside guard rails.

I purchased some code 250 aluminum rail to do the guard rails on my trestle and bridges. But since I am using Aristocraft track, I haven’t quite worked out how to attach the guard rails to the plastic ties.

#10

Just predrill with the correct sized drill and use spikes to mount the rail to the ties. the spikes are available from Railcraft/Micro Engineering. The holes you drill should be sized so that the spikes are a tight fit.

If you are taking the trouble to build a great model of a trestle, finish it off with proper bridge ties of the correct length, and hand lay the rail.

So many pictures of bridges and trestles appear in the magazines, where the builder has spent hours building the bridge, only to ruin the image by not using proper bridge ties. Just laying regular track on a great model bridge, always seems to stand out and ruin the image.

#11

Fred, yes I probably should hand lay the track on my trestle and 2 bridges, but I would rather play trains.

Thanks

#12

This reminds me I really need to finish off my long trestle. I’ve held off because I havent purchased the code 215 rail to use as the guard rails.

Its been a busy summer and little time for railroading :frowning: but I should get at least some small projects done!!

#13

Guard rails were usually smaller than the running rails because old used rail was used most often for guard rails and was quite often of a smaller size. It is quite acceptable to use the same sized rail for both the running rails and the guard rails. Just don’t make the guard rails bigger than the running rails.

Also note that the guard rails should not be shiny on top as wheels don’t run on them to keep them shined like they do on the running rails. Many people forget this and have shiny guard rails which you shouldn’t have unless one wheel set is slightly out of gauge.

#14

I’m trying to make my bridges look better. I should have made solid decks w/ ballast. I decided to try and get the look of ties close together w/ guardrails. I just started this project and have a ways to go. Bruce from Switchcrafters is helping me get the look I want.
(http://www.largescalecentral.com/public/album_photo/87/c6/01/1c3c2_c981.jpg?c=45fc)

#15

Joe I see you are using tie plates, very classy. BTW the guard rails were usually just spiked to the ties without tie plates. That should save you a little money, just like it did for the 1:1 guys.

#16

I need guardrails too.