Large Scale Central

Border complete - Ready to start expansion

Track and Trestles
#21

Once again I underestimated how many sticks I would need. 4 more came home today making a total of 64 feet and I’m still 10 feet short of reconnecting to the main :o I’m not sure I’m happy with the shape o the main loop - but this is just a proof-of concept. Before I actually plant roadbed I need to pour pads for the switches, the crossing and bridge abutments. I plan on casting a connection point directly into the concrete to anchor the ladder roadbed. Once these fixed points are established it will be easier to form the roadbed between them. I’m also concerned that the curve back toward the main after crossing the bridge may be a bit too sharp. Since these are free flowing curves, how would you go about measuring the curvature? I thought of using a scale version of an engineering chain and plot the curve in degrees but I’m not sure that’s worth the effort. The latest pictures… Looking down grade from the street [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand07-1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Expand07-640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] The bridge over deep cut - When built this will be straight [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand08-1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Expand08-640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] The curve returning back to the main may be too tight [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand09-1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Expand09-640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] Looking toward the crossing and the bridge over Deep Cut [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand10-1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Expand10-640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color]

#22

Jon, It’s looking good, you’ve done a loy of work on it… Only way I know, to get a rough idea of the curve, would be to use a tape measure from a central point and use it like a drafting compass, to determine the radius of the curve… It is free flowing and you only want an idea, not the specific radius…

If your concerned about that radius only, then set that curve the way you want it across the “CUT”, then go back and connect the two tracks from there to where the crossing goes…

Just my 2 cents worth

#23

The proof of concept is now complete. In order to keep the curves wide and sweeping I ended up using a lot more real estate than I originally planned, but I checked with upper management and an easement was granted to use whatever I need. I’m also glad that I put the roadbed together as a test because it pointed out several problems with my original plan. First, the crossing needs to be made much closer to the North tail of the Wye than I planned. And, I discovered last night that my RH switch will have to be located closer to Deep Cut in order to avoid a conflict with an existing tree. Well this won’t work with wide curves :o The tree is just too close [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand11-1024.jpg]

(http://lsc.cvsry.com/Expand11-640.jpg)

[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] Locating the RH switch closer to the tree will do it - go around the other side [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand12-1024.jpg]

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[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] View West from the street with all components in place. I think this will work! [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand13-1024.jpg]

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[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] From the bridge over Deep Cut to the switch. This curve looks better now. [url=lsc.cvsry.com/Expand14-1024.jpg]

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[/url][color=blue]FF: Click to Enlarge - IE: Right Click Photo and select Open Link in New Window to Enlarge[/color] As I was editing this post, I noticed that I could add a industry siding parallel to the border stone by placing a switch where the roadbed starts to curve back toward the main. I’d rather use a #6 here since the diverging route would be the regular route of the train. I’ll have to see if I have an extra RH #6 in stock. So - The concept proof complete, I’ll disconnect and pick up all the Tuf Board. I have a non-railroad related project in the back yard that takes priority, so as soon as it’s done I’ll start on the pads for the switches and the bridges abutments. I plan on building the bridge abutment to fit the specs of the Garden Metal Models 24" bridge. I’ll probably use something quick made from wood to start, but it will be nice to be able to drop in a nice bridge when I can afford it.

#24

Jon,

Do you intend to secure the TuffBoard to the ground in some manner, and if so, how?

#25

What’s shown is only half of the roadbed. There will be another Tuf Board rail separated by 2x2 blocks every 10 inches or so. See Bruce Chandler’s build log for details. The roadbed is secured with 2x2 wood posts driven into the ground. In my case, much of the roadbed will be below the existing grade in order to connect with and cross the existing track at grade. I’ll still anchor these sections, but they will require some trenching. As I come up grade, close to the border and across the cut I’ll end up backfilling against the roadbed so it ends up mostly buried.

#26

That looks like a neat plan Jon. Lots of work, but should be fun.

While I was out doing some repairs today, I came across one of my switches that I had built on a PT 2 x 8. I know you’re thinking of using concrete, but perhaps the PT would be an easier substitute?

#27
Jon Radder said:
What's shown is only half of the roadbed. There will be another Tuf Board rail separated by 2x2 blocks every 10 inches or so. See Bruce Chandler's build log for details. The roadbed is secured with 2x2 wood posts driven into the ground. In my case, much of the roadbed will be below the existing grade in order to connect with and cross the existing track at grade. I'll still anchor these sections, but they will require some trenching. As I come up grade, close to the border and across the cut I'll end up backfilling against the roadbed so it ends up mostly buried.
'K, good. I am doing much the same thing, but using inch and a quarter PVC for the verticle supports. I was tossing in my mind whether it was necessary to tie down the at grade ladder.
#28

Steve - I can’t hurt to tie down the at-grade ladder and it should help keep it from moving with the surrounding top soil in the freeze-thaw cycle.

Bruce - I’m not dead set on concrete under the switches. I’ve done the three Wye witches that way and have had real good luck with them staying in place. I’m not sure I will be able to get the RH switch on a concrete pad because it’s so close to the tree I won’t be able to dig down very much. I’ll probably use PT or something other than concrete for at least that one.

#29

I use paving blocks under my switches. Works like a champ.

#30

Steve - Not a bad idea but I’m using all #6 switches for mainline tracks. The biggest patio block I can get is about 24" which is a tad short for a #6. I could cast my own, which might not be a bad idea as I could cast a connection for the ladder right into the pad.

#31

John,

What is your minimum radius? I made a radius guide for a five foot radius for John Neal out of one 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. I cut the template to the outside of the ties and drilled a one inch hole every foot. He is using pvc pipe and rebar for his roadbed. The holes allow him to mark the centerline of the curve with rebar without moving the plywood. His minimum is five foot. I was able to cut out five curves out of one sheet. I over lapped each piece 18" and four of the pieces made more than a complete circle. It wasn’t exact, but very close. I will be trying the same thing for my rr, but with ten foot radius. I used two carriage bolts and wing nuts to hold the sections together. It gives a very good idea what can and can not be done. I am using a roadbed method similar to Bruce. When it comes time for my templates, I will make them only as wide as the roadbed and clamp one side of the ladder to the template and the assemble the curve on it. Once complete, I will be able to move the sections to the rr. I am building an elevated line, so these same templates will assist with the frame work in certain areas. Hope this helps. I’ll give John a call to see if he can post some pictures.

#32

Hi Mario - Nice to meet you!

That’s a nice idea if your looking to use sectional track or keep to exact radius curves. One of the things I like about the ladder roadbed is that you can get very free-form looking curves with natural easements. The track ends up looking more realistic than a constant radius curve.

That said, I think your method might be helpful to me for a short (say 1/6 circle) test fixture.

My drop-dead minimum radius indoors is 4 foot. Outdoors I try and stay much broader, closer to 8 foot on the main and 5 foot for sidings. Since I have very few radius style curves it’s difficult to determine what the as-built radius actually is. When I realigned one of only two 1/4 circle radius curves outdoors, I think I was shooting for 10 foot radius.

Thanks !