Large Scale Central

Body mount Kadee coupler to Piko Tank Car

I want to body mount Kadee type 1 coupler to a Piko Texaco Tank car but can’t figure out which one to use. I’m guessing that I’ll need to use something like the #820 1 Scale Straight Centerset Shank Couplers with Body Mount Gearboxes and some shims. I use the #1929 Type “E” Coupler Height Gauge. I’ve not been successful searching various forums or the Kadee site for this particular conversion.

I’m hoping that someone has done this previously and can share their experience. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

c

…but then, I’m going by the picture of a Piko tank car, which resembles a NG tank car. I don’t have one in my hands, so I could be wrong .If you have the Kadee coupler gauge, and it fits under the end beam, then the choice is yours, take your pick: Kadee 820’s or the 1906 E type; they both use the same draft gear box; yes you will likely need shims, but that is easy. Just use styrene shim stock, of various thicknesses, to get the correct height for the coupler pad. “Easy Peasy”…drill the proper size holes, using the centre and end holes, after you build up the pad. I use a pin vice.

Fred Mills

Fred,

Thanks. I should have mentioned that I currently don’t have any Piko rolling stock and have not yet purchased this car. I’m hoping to purchase the car and the couplers from the same seller to reduce shipping charges.

Thanks again.

Mark,

Kadee recommends the 831’s or the new AAR 909’s which they are moving towards. Never done any of the Piko cars myself but good luck with the purchase and if you decide on what you want please post “Pictures” of the “Newly” purchased Piko Texaco tank car with kadee couplers.

Rooster:

Where do you see that Kadee makes that recommendation for body mounting on Piko tank cars?

The Coupler Conversion List shows #1909 or #1931 for their Type 1 couplers for Piko cars. Those are for truck mounting and not for body mounting which is what I want to do.

The famous “inquiring minds want to know” quote comes to mind.

Thanks.

Mr.Russell; The person stated he wanted the Kadee #1 gauge couplers…not the larger “G” scale ones. He also stated that he has the #1 gauge coupler gauge already.

Mark …I did not see where they recommend body mounting I only see what they recommend for their couplers with this PDF https://www.kadee.com/documents/g1list.pdf

However Fredrick Mills,Padre,Friar,Father Fred (no nicknames intended) seems to have you covered. So I will bow out and good luck “IF” you decide to purchase that Piko car and body mount kadees. Once again …please post “PICTURES” if you decide to make the purchase!

Fred Mills. said:

Mr.Russell; The person stated he wanted the Kadee #1 gauge couplers…not the larger “G” scale ones. He also stated that he has the #1 gauge coupler gauge already.

I know!

Kadee 831’s are “G” truck-mount couplers, not body-mount.

Michael Kirrene said:

Kadee 831’s are “G” truck-mount couplers, not body-mount.

I know …Padre Mills has him covered so let it go

But…I can’t let it go. I want to rub it in. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-foot-in-mouth.gif)

I bought a pair of the warbird PIKO hoppers as shown on page 95 of the 2020 PIKO catalog and added Kadee body mounted Gauge 1 couplers to them.

As Fred suggested the anvil end of the Kadee gauge was used to get the height needed to mount the couplers. Luckily the height was exactly that of the bottom of the frame and the detail in the center of each end of the cars.

The trucks were removed and dissembled. All but 1/4 inch of the draw bars used for the redundant hook and loop couplers were removed. The trucks were reassembled and set aside to make mounting the coupler boxes to the frame easier.

These particular cars had a drop in the bottom of the frame near the bolster. But the frame and the bottom of the detail in the center of the cars were a 1 inch flat space on which the coupler could be fastened.

The protruding screw pocket at the back of the coupler gear boxes were sanded flush with the back of the gear box. This would minimized the amount the couplers would protrude from the cars.

I assembled all the couplers and glued the top of them to the frame. Using the hole in the center of the gear boxes as a guide I drilled a 3/32nd hole in the frame. Then fastened the coupler by threaded a half inch 4-40 bolt through the frame.

With the couplers in place I fastened the trucks back on the car with the 1/4 inch the drawbar nubs facing the center of the car. They couplers worked very well on the 8 foot diameter curves and PIKO switches on my switching puzzle layout.

I just did my convention hopper car with truck mount s and they fit and work great ! I like the ease of use on these. No need to cut shim or mutilate the original work of the csr

Thanks Pete, but I like the look of body mounted trucks so I’m forced to mutilate. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)Also, I kind of enjoy it (the mutilation part).

Ok, in that case I will send you all my cars that need to be converted,

Pete:

You’re on and no charge! Just realize that I have good days and bad days, too bad I can’t predict when I’ll have one of the other.

p.s. shipping is extra. (https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)(https://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-money-mouth.gif)

What ever happened to; Pics or it didn’t happen?

John:

At least for me it hasn’t happened yet as I have not received the car and coupler. Patience, patience Grasshopper!

Remember those vultures -

Nsaney's Psychobabble: Vultures: Patience my ass - I'm gonna kill ...

I’m tired of being a patient!

Using the word “Mutilate” is NOT a fair way of describing, PROPERLY body mounting Kadee couplers on rolling stock. Properly mounting them on the body, can enhance the prototypical appearance of the rolling stock.

Only collectors should have any problem with body mounting couplers. In their minds, and the Collector Market; only “Original, or Pristine” appearance is acceptable. Running and enjoying the equipment, indoors or out doesn’t add to their value, in that part of the hobby. More thought is towards its market value when they die. Will anyone care, after they pass away…I leave that to the individual…

Fred Mills