Large Scale Central

Blackening wheels? Paint or Pen?

In another thread, regular contributor Doug Arnold responded to saving money by painting his own wheels black vs. factory coloring.
“If you want to see high prices try to get the black wheels. I just paint mine.”
San Val’s web site shows use of a black marking pen.
Question: Does the pen technique last? How compared to painting?

I have had good luck with Rustoleum’s brown sprayed on wheel faces after light (labor intensive) 400 grit wet/dry sanding. Most often the wheels are Bachmann’s or from Aristo. However, eventually there is rust – which may or may not look authentic depending on whether the silver plating shows through.

Wendell

Wendell, I take all my wheels to work and powder coat them

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b385/speedfreak1996/Kitbashes/IM002617.jpg)

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b385/speedfreak1996/Kitbashes/EX000011.jpg)

I also powder coat my drive rods as well I tape off the flanges and tire areas to retain electrical conductivity and put silicon plugs in the screw holes and wheel to axle mating areas as well just another option

I painted the wheels on my Annie. No sanding.
I used flat black Rustoleum, applied with a brush.
It’s been several years and there’s been no chipping or flaking so far.
Ralph

I’ve found Badger’s “ModelFlex” paint to be very good when it comes to sticking to wheels. It does flake off if you derail excessively and rub the tire against the inside of the railhead, but it’s simple enough to repaint as well. I’ve used a black marker to color the white paint on tires in the past with mixed results. Sometimes it works, sometimes it seems to flake off with the paint. I haven’t tried scuffing the surface first, though. That might help a bit.

Later,

K

I have always primed and painted rolling stock wheels with a good primer and black paint. Usually Krylon. Rustoleum works well too.

Done both, only used the marker on BB freight car wheels to keep the bearings clear, rest get painted with a brush, usually black or rust or a dusting of rust over black. Lately just rust only. As I add more BB wheels I will have to try dry brushing some rust over those wheels.

For many years I have used Floquil model railroad paint , rust color , and rail brown , on the Bachmann steel wheels which I have the most of . I used rust over the Bachmann black wheel because the RRds can not PAINT the wheels on the real railroads , the color is rust covered with dirt and whatever .
And the Floquil paint was applied with a Q-TIP , and it has remained on the wheels for many years , for me here it has .

For freight car wheels (I was originally thinking loco wheels due to Shawn’s photos), I just use a mixture of black and brown acrylic craft paint–the cheap 99-cent stuff from Michael’s, etc. Blend it to a grimy, rusty color, and don’t worry if it’s not entirely even. Then I get a fairly stiff 1/4" or 3/8" brush, turn the car over and give the axles a twirl with my finger while I hold the brush to the outside of the wheel. My dad recently converted to metal wheels, and I painted his entire fleet (30 cars, give or take) in around an hour. I’ve been using that paint on my wheels for 15 or so years, and it’s proven very robust. I use the ModelFlex on the locomotive wheels because it’s a gloss black and generally matches the finish on the original loco much better than the craft acrylics.

Later,

K

Depends on the wheel’s alloy.
Steel, I actually rust them with acid. Plated or stainless gets painted rust.
The wheels on Accucraft cars are made up of different alloys on each run of production.
Some set in the acid for an hour and never corrode. Others are fine in 10 minutes.
Sierra Valley and Gary Raymond wheel sets are constant and rust up beautifully.

On all of my locos I just use a flat black paint, then a flat clear to sort of help seal it a bit. I don’t worry about any paint on the flanges; I just use ‘OOPS!’ and a couple of q-tips to remove the paint from the flanges. Very easy, and very speedy.