Add to the tool list a belt/disc sander. I bought one when I got tasked with making the awards for our professional groups annual birdhouse competition. I have been using it for the layout ever since and honestly don’t know why I didn’t get one earlier. Its a small one but boy has it been useful.
I’ve got one but it’s small. My thickness sander has coarse and fine sanders. You are absolutely right. It is my most used set of tools for getting things “just right “.
Ahaaa, I’ve never found that masonite makes for a very durable outside material.
But if you do use it… the shinny side, is at least more moisture resistant then the rough side…
How do you plan on waterproofing the roof? What covering material?
I’m going off mainline here and contemplating trying a different approach, but I am open to suggestions.
Early on I did purchase a very thick cutting board made from bamboo, that I think “herself” will get. I’m reading they are making road bridges out of the stuff though.
Masonite with tightbond 3 smeared on all the edges, then cedar shingles attached with tightbond 3 then mixing up a paintable diluted tightbond 3 and painting the roof so that any drips run under the shingles.
So in the railway I have a gorilla type foamy glued building, a plastic imitation corrugated roof building attached with silicone, an imitation Taylor Tin roof made with, I believe, aluminium, a shingled roof that is more silicon than shingles and a shingled roof that I used liquid nails to attach shingles I have stayed away from slats as my sub-roof and used marine ply on one and mostly thin cedar board on the rest.
your english is so upside-down, that we need pics to understand. 
I hate it when the German / Paraguayans speak better English than I do. 
I’ll try to get some photos.
…and by my calculations Korm. It’s 02:30 in Paraguay. What are you doing up!?
well, meanwhile it is 03:20. between the two posts i was in the store, preparing the cash registers fror the next day.
and now i think, a nap is in order. or maybe refiling a litte on my eyeteeth?
Fitting windows and doors.
Summer rain today. Hopefully I can paint tomorrow.
BTW 3D windows: whos had success and what plastic did you use?
I have only ever printed them with resin. And for that and to keep it simple I would use Siraya Tech Fast. I have used the Gray and the Navy Gray with decent results. Its plenty durable for something like a door or window and prints nice.
I’m curious how a window printed with PLA will hold up outdoors and if paint would help prolong their life against sun exposure.
Todd,
There’s a young guy at our Bonsai club who has printed a number of PLA bonsai pots with surprisingly good results. He has recommended to spray the plastic with a clear UV coating used for cars. We’ve got an inexpensive can at our local Supercheap Auto store.
We haven’t tested it yet because we’re still building the RR and we are getting excessive heat from the sandy loam. We hit 41.2 degrees this week. Birdsville to our north hit 49.4 (121 Fahrenheit).
I was thinking PETG as I need to finish an enclosure to try HIPS ASA & ABS.
What temperatures do resins slump at?
A clear coat is a good idea. I clear coat all my paint jobs with a satin or flat finish. I didn’t think about going right over the plastic without painting it first.
I sure hope the printed windows hold up. I was just cutting holes and test fitting them and they look great.
Great progress on your Mik build, Bill. I’ve printed windows and doors with PLA and then painted the color of choice and sprayed with a clear UV protectant. Now the windows and doors have not been outside, but I have other items, primarily for my bee hives, that I have printed and finished the same way and they have been outside for years with no issues. The only problem I’ve encountered are prints that have little support for extended lengths sagging due to heat. I doubt you’ll have that issue with the scale we are dealing with.
I guess I better get on to partially dismantling my printer and finishing off my enclsure to do ABS and ASA.
Spent the weekend looking for local polystyrene and PVC BOARD for the challenge. The PVC board I found a the local Bunnings Hardware looked nothing like PVC pipe, was floppy, 3mm, and the smooth glossy texture of a kitchen cutting board. I’m thinking that unless I find a sign guy who does HIPS, it will be a Melbourne side trip on our way to ride trains in Tassie.
After receiving sage advice, changed plans started working on some salvaged cedar floorboards from dismantled school. This of course would have gone much faster with a band saw and a pin nailer…
Cut to length
Varnish removed
Sliced to thickness
Taped together and run through the thickness sander
Re-taped to place on the disc sander
Glued together and excess glue removed.
No biscuit joiner harmed in this process
It’s still amazing how aromatic cedar is after 50-80 years. Shingles this time with tightbond III. NEXT TIME it will be E-6000 (Does anybody know if it the same as shoe goo or B-6000?)
Bill,
I have to say its been entertaining watching your build. So many things we take for granted here in the states are proving to be a mythical unicorn for you. PVC lumber. In less than 45 minutes I can be at no less than 10 stores that sell various widths of 3/4 +/- PVC lumber with a smooth side and a wood grain texture side. No road trip necessary.
I am beginning to think its easier to scratch build in G scale on Mars than it is in Australia
All that aside and with the hemisphere challenges noted its looking great.
Looking good so far Bill.
Foamed PVC Board in 3mm is very floppy and none of it is rigid like PVC pipe. That’s probably the same stuff you would find being used in a sign shop. The thicker it is the more rigid it becomes. A 25mm 4x8 sheet will not flex much at all.
Polystyrene is more like the PVC pipe, but not exactly. Usually bright white and rigid. Thin sheets are very flexible.