I’m detailing my Bachmann Bug Mauler tender shell for my battery loco and want to attach an Ozark Miniatures cast water filler hatch to the plastic shell. What should I use? I have another tender with the same hatch and I think I may have used CA. It’s still stuck on, but I’ve heard that water will debond CA, so I’m thinking of using something else. Bear in mind we’re “gluing” metal to Bachmann plastic, which doesn’t seem to handle having anything glued to it. Or so I’ve heard.
Marine Goop will likely do the job. I’ve been using it extensively since my supply of Welder dried up and it seems to work in every combo I’ve tried it on. Can be a bit stringy in application but it sure sticks.
or any “Goop” for that matter…
Water might debond CA long term but that is a new one on me. CA glues require moisture from the air to cure. Acetone is a known debonder for CA but it usually only works before the CA has fully cured. I usually keep it around in case I get some on me.
Gary Buchanan said:
Water might debond CA long term but that is a new one on me. CA glues require moisture from the air to cure.
I think way back when “CA” was first introduced, it was “water soluble”.
I’ve never had any problems with it outdoors. Maybe over the years the formulation was improved.
Just saw a commercial on TV for Super Glue as I was reading this. The women repairs a blender carafe, then runs it through the dishwasher
Goop, on the other hand, has given me problems outdoors. I had several build plastic buildings fall apart in less than a year.
Others seem to swear by it. I remember reading a post that the various “flavors” of Goop all have the same formulation
Ralph
Richard Smith said:
since my supply of Welder dried up
I get my Weld-On from eBay.
Here is a search for #16. You can see the price varies, a lot.
You can also find the other formulations of Weld-On on eBay.
Ralph
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_sop=15&_nkw=weld-on+16+acrylic+cement&_frs=1
Welder is quite a bit different than Weld-On. Welder is/was a contact cement and held up VERY well outdoors. Very useful for the Precision Products sheets, as it did not deform the plastic at all.
Though it does look like some decent deals on Weld-On -which I also use a lot; so thanks for that tip.
Hmm…just found this: http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Homax-730657-Pro-Welder-Adhesive-1-Ounce-Pack-of-2-041072006576.html
Haven’t tried them…used to be available locally.
Thanks Bruce.
Wasn’t aware of the Pro Welder.
Just ordered some.
Ralph
Thanks, gang. I have some Welder–and Weld-On–in my tool tray. The tube is still pliable so I’m assuming it’ll still work. I also have AC (the 3-M kind from the local art supply store), but because the surface of the tender is kinda bumpy (I need some more Dremel bits to smooth stuff out), I think I’m gonna go with something form filling like Welder.
While I’m at it, I’m considering adding some hungry boards to the coal load and must research my various “Narrow Gauge Pictorials” (Locomotives of the D&GRW, C&S, etc) to see what them there tenders all look like.
At this point, some of you may be thinking,“This guy is such a (insert appropriate phrase). First he’s building his outdoor switching layout, then he’s installing a battery in his tender, then building a house, gas station, etc. Does he ever finish anything?”
Yes. Eventually. But today it’s tender-bashing day, so let me at that tender shell. BTW, I bought some Rustoleum black automotive primer to not only lay down a base coat, but maybe to use it instead of Grimy Black to paint my locos and stuff. It looks kinda old and grimy, but because it comes out of the nozzle like outa a firehose, I’m not sure what it’ll look like. All’s I know is my airbrush can lay down a beautiful coat of paint if I’m ambitious enough to fire it up. And clean it. 
Joe,
For a very good primer (black, grey, rusty red) with a good nozzle on the spray can try Bondo primer. A bit more pricey than some ($6.95 locally) it goes on quite smoothly and dries quickly. I’ve used it on wood, metal, acrylic, styrene and other plastics.
While it has been quite compatible with the paints I’m using many paints are being reformulated because of environmental restrictions so as with any unfamiliar product be sure and test it in an unseen area or scrap part if you’re overpainting an existing paint.
Also I found it was the sun’s heat not moisture that broke down CA cement outdoors. At least that was my experience.
Richard, thanks for the paint tip, even if I just spent ??? $6 bucks for Rustoleum. But I’ll look for Bondo, which my not be available at our local ACE hardware store. Yer probably asking why I would shop there and pay more, what with Wally World and all. Well, ACE is right on Main Street in our cute little town. I can walk there in about 10 minutes, it’s open seven days a week and has a lot of stuff, which I can check out before I buy. Plus I like to support local businesses.
On the glue front, I went with the Welder, applying it to the part and to the tender shell, waiting a few minutes, then sticking the parts together. Looks OK. BTW, that Ozark Miniatures part is a brass casting and pretty tough. My Dremel had a good workout cutting of the little lug that serves as a hinge pin for the hatch cover.
Lawn and Garden Goop…Official Adhesive of the Bartwerks…it supposedly has a UV inhibitor in it, and I’ve not had it pail outside…Craftes Goop has failed outside…I can only imagine Marine Goop would be UV inhibiteed as well…
Joe, try looking for Bondo products at you local NAPA (or other auto parts) store.
Yeah, Steve, I searched the internets and came up with Reilley’s or O’Reilleys or something like that (hope it’s not that gabby guy off Fox News). Anyways, there are several stores near me so I’ll pick up a can of Bondo brand t’morrow and maybe use the Rustoleum for graffiti. 
Drill a hole and put a screw in it, then you don’t have to worry about what sticks to what.
Rick Marty said:
Drill a hole and put a screw in it, then you don’t have to worry about what sticks to what.
I tried that with sticky notes but the wife got quite angry over the holes in the refrigerator.
Rick, I’m with Richard on this. No holes. BTW, that brass casting is one tough mutha! Actually, the deed is done and the hatch looks stuck on real good. Right now I am trying to decide what else to do to the tender (see my “Are you hungry (for some tender boards” post).
Thanks all. Over and out.
Well to each his own.
When did Ozark start using brass for their castings?
Well, Rick, now you’re gonna make me put my metallurgical hat on. Honest, I don’t know what the material is. But it is brass-colored and very hard, even facing my Dremel’s cutoff wheel. Only thing I can figure is that it may not be Ozark…
Wait, news flash! I just looked in my parts box. It’s a Trackside Details part. Alles klar, herr kommisar?
(http://freightsheds.largescalecentral.com/users/joerusz915/Shell1.jpg)
