I’m trying to make a boiler jacket for my little Ruby. I have a good drawing of what I’ll need, thanks to Vance Bass, but I want to use brass stock that’s thick enough to be durable and drillable for handrails and other items. Any tips on how to form brass into a tube? I don’t have a slip roller, so I was planning to roll it around a PVC pipe. Maybe make the sheet a little oversized and screw one side into the PVC.
My usual method is to take a broom handle—or whatever appropriate size round object -----cut it down to a length with at least a couple of inch overhang over the longitudinal length of the wrapper .
Get a piece of hard rubber sheet , lay it flat on a flat bench . This hardness is important—you should barely be able to deform it with your thumbnail . So is the flatness . Put a hard glass sheet under if necessary .
Make sure the surface above and below the rubber is absolutely clean .
Make sure that your roller (name change for broom handle) is very , very smooth and clean . If you can’t get a really smooth broom handle , get some dowel from a DIY store----and smooth it down .
Right . Ever watch anyone roll out a pastry lid ? You knew that was coming didn’t you ?
OK , you cut the brass to as near as you can in length . Use maths to work out the circumference . Cut yer brass–or thin steel , or ally --to about 7-10% over this . That might sound a lot , but until you are good at this , you will be glad you did .
Place the brass centrally on the rubber . Starting in the centre , with light pressure , roll outwards in both directions . This will initially form the brass into a flat “U” . Persevere , and you will eventually get it wrapped . If you need a taper boiler , increase pressure at one end . Drill necessary holes and trim to circumference as required . I still use this method occasionally in preference to rollers , just to keep my hand in
Oh , the dowel should be as large as possible commensurate with the job . Said the actress to the bishop
Mike M
That would work–thank you. I found someone in England who claims to have ruby boiler jackets ready made, with insulation, and so I may just do that
Mike Morgan said:
My usual method is to take a broom handle---or whatever appropriate size round object -----cut it down to a length with at least a couple of inch overhang over the longitudinal length of the wrapper . Get a piece of hard rubber sheet , lay it flat on a flat bench . This hardness is important---you should barely be able to deform it with your thumbnail . So is the flatness . Put a hard glass sheet under if necessary . Make sure the surface above and below the rubber is absolutely clean . Make sure that your roller (name change for broom handle) is very , very smooth and clean . If you can't get a really smooth broom handle , get some dowel from a DIY store----and smooth it down . Right . Ever watch anyone roll out a pastry lid ? You knew that was coming didn't you ? OK , you cut the brass to as near as you can in length . Use maths to work out the circumference . Cut yer brass--or thin steel , or ally --to about 7-10% over this . That might sound a lot , but until you are good at this , you will be glad you did . Place the brass centrally on the rubber . Starting in the centre , with light pressure , roll outwards in both directions . This will initially form the brass into a flat "U" . Persevere , and you will eventually get it wrapped . If you need a taper boiler , increase pressure at one end . Drill necessary holes and trim to circumference as required . I still use this method occasionally in preference to rollers , just to keep my hand in Oh , the dowel should be as large as possible commensurate with the job . Said the actress to the bishopMike M
Neat trick Mike. Any special thickness for the hard rubber? Should it be hard like conveyor belting or more like a Vibram shoe sole?
I rolled some brass strips for fender around a pill bottle and let it spring back. I don’t have the width to worry about on that job, but this is one I’ll file away in my cortex for future reference.
David ,
Conveyor belting rubber is ideal . But failing that , thin cork as on the back of table mats works too.
I sometimes just use an upside down mat for small stuff . It’s all down to the pressure you apply , but generally the higher pressure needed obtains greater accuracy .
I think I may have been a bit brief in my explanation . The importance of cleanliness and smoothness is so that pitting does not occur----little bits of grit cause large dings , a pig to remove ; wobbly dowel produces a wobbly tube .
The same technique can be used to form the curved roof edges of vehicles , the tumlehome on a carriage , and so forth . Or fifth if you get good at it . You just roll the bit you want .
Any questions on the usual 3 dollar note , non returnable .
Mike M
That’s a very handy bit of info, Mike! I’ll have to remember that.
How about a sheet metal roller? I’d guess that Harbor Freight has a small table top model. Some models even have a set of groves in the rollers at one end so you can roll round stock.
Jon.