So it looks like the Aristo CRE55465 is a decent power supply; I am finally going beyond the simple transformer that came with my 4’ circle, and putting my tracks outside.
Any suggestions for a throttle to match?
If I run about 15’ of wire from the transformer to track outside, any suggestions for what gauge wire I should aim for?
Thanks for any input.
The bigger the wire, the less resistance there is, and the more 'Trons that reach your locomotive and such.
I use 12 gauge wire as leaders to the track off a 10 gauge bus, with leaders every 6 joints or so…
OTOH, I am slowly making the switch to battery power, too.
As for throttle, I use Aristo’s Train Engineer. Works like a champ, and can be used for battery power, too, when you get there. 
If you are going to remain track power I agree with Steve. The Aristo Train Engineer is the way to go. If you choose to go battery then RCS or AirWire are the best way for that.
Yes to all of the above with one minor deviation…
I think the 10G bus with feeders every 6 joints is just a bit of overkill, especially with the current cost of wire. I’m running a track power layout on stainless steel track. The power is fed from indoors to 3 locations on roughly 200 feet of point-to-point track (no circle connection). The wire is the 12Ga Stranded Malibu type from HoDePo and I use mostly the stock Aristocraft joiners except at switch locations where I use Split-Jaw clamps. I’ve had no power issues to speak of.
All of that said, lately I run live steam and battery power although I’ll probably crank up the track power for a snow plow extra run if we ever get any plowable snow.
Jon
I ran 600+ feet of track in two loops with just two power feeds. Any more is a waste of wire. Make good track joint connections and you’ll need nothing more. OTOH…I’m with Warren and a few others. AM doing away with track power completely and going battery RC.
Andre’
I like overkill.
Why use a match, when a flamethrower works just as well?
Steve, you and John do seem to get along quite well!!
Well ya know Warren, when times get tough and Steve needs some scratch for a new loco he can always dig up that 10 Ga. and sell it for scrap at probably 10 times what he paid for it. And the new loco will still run fine 
Thanks guys- it sounds like I’ll be buying some 12 guage wire and a train engineer system (probably Aristo’s CRE55470) in my future.
When it comes to my engines & rolling stock I have yet to stray from LGB, however I have not seen a great justification for going with LGB’s electric products.
It might have been smarter to start work in the warmth & extended daylight of the summer, but nonetheless I am happy to finally be moving out of the basement.
Chris, if you are running LGB, I would suggest that you make sure that on your CRE55470 that the switch marked linear/PW be in the linear position. LGB does not like PW.
I run SS and have feeders about every 20-30 feet, BUT I have all SS SJ clamps, AND all my wires are home run, AND all are 10 gauge. This is not overkill, I run trains with lots of locomotives and can use close to my 10 amp capacity.
I don’t believe Steve has overkill.
You need to look at all the variables… if you run just one loco, and DC track power, you will have minimal voltage drop, since you aren’t drawing a lot of amps. Also, when your speed drops because of your few feeders, it’s no big deal, you just turn the throttle up. So you CAN have just a couple of feeders.
On the other hand, if you run a system with constant track power, you notice more readily voltage drops, and drop in speed. Then run about 5 locos at a time on a railroad with 2 feeders, you will change your tune.
The point is that you need to know a bit more before you proclaim you are right and the other guy is wrong.
So, for some people Steve’s wiring is wrong/overkill. If I came over, it would be great!
Different strokes for different situations!
Regards, Greg
Chris Bosken said:
Thanks guys- it sounds like I'll be buying some 12 guage wire and a train engineer system (probably Aristo's CRE55470) in my future.When it comes to my engines & rolling stock I have yet to stray from LGB, however I have not seen a great justification for going with LGB’s electric products.
It might have been smarter to start work in the warmth & extended daylight of the summer, but nonetheless I am happy to finally be moving out of the basement.
Take a look at low voltage landscape llighting for the 12 gauge wire at the big box stores. Rated for outside and will serve your railroad purposes.
Greg -
I see your point. Every situation is different and what works for me may not work for anyone else. However I don’t think I proclaimed that Steve was wrong, rather that I thought it was a bit of overkill taking into consideration the cost of copper today. The rest was just some good natured ribbing - we’re good at that here.
What everyone seems to ignore is that the 332 track cross-section, if properly joined, is effectively a lot larger than 10ga. Granted that SS does not conduct as well as brass and copper is better still, but for track power good joints are as important as feeders. You obviously know that since you used SJ clamps at every joint. I’ve been lucky to get away with the Aristo screw joiners.
My approach was to build with no feeders at all, then to add them where I noticed voltage drop problems. This works for my situation but may not work for others where coming back later and adding feeders might be difficult.
Have a great day -
Jon
…heck almighty…you can get away with simple 14, 12, or 10 gauge “Lomex” house wire if you want to save a bit…I used to use it out of doors when I used track power. Occasionally I dig up a bit of what was left underground from years ago, and after 20 years the “Plastic” or nylon, or whatever it is, insulation is still in first class shape.
That house wire may not be stranded, but who cares, unless you are moving it about a lot. It also usually has a bare ground wire, but don’t let that worry you…!!!
In the big picture, using the average pike as an example; you will probably never need over 14 gauge wire, unless you have a run of over 50 feet, and are drawing over 15 amps.
BTW…“Transformer” is an overused term.
Unless you are running on AC (Alternating current); the “Power Pack” you should be using is more than just a “Transformer”.
If you don’t understand these basics. It would be very wise to do a bit of BASIC RESEARCH, into HOW TO WIRE YOUR MODEL RAILROAD.
Start right off with a good reference book put out by one of the Model Railroad Publishers…Klambake puts out several.
Don’t give me that stuff about those books being for only the small scales.
THE BASICS OF ELECTRICITY ARE ALL THE SAME, no mater what the scale.
One evening of reading one of those reference books will help you for a lifetime.
Fred, you want me to approach this intelligently, following the directions? That takes all the fun out of it!
madwolf