Just wondering how the transformation is going between battery and track power. I realize that track will win out as it’s the way engines come from the factory and battery power requires a transformation of the engine and much more adder expense that many may not want to encounter. I won’t go into the advantages and disadvantages of each here, but just wondering how many might consider battery power in the future. At a cost of around $300 per engine for Rail Pro and that’s after you purchased your $300 controller, only one needed for all your engines. Note here, I’m thinking DCC and track power are the same type of power requirement and somewhat go together. i just know that after going to Rail Pro battery power it’s taken all the fun out of electrical problems between engine and track, I really miss that.
I started as track power and frankly got tired of the cleaning, connections, etc. but tried the LocoLinc for individual engine and switch control. After just doing 1 install and 2 switches, I found their system a pain to not only carry around the giant 70’s era walkie talkie size and looking controller, but it was cumbersome to use and switch between engines and switches, etc. so pulled that out and going with battery and RailPro. Just getting started but so far happy. Not perfect, especially steam sounds, but working around that with the Phoenix cards I already have.
Understand the steam sound, I have two LGB Moguls and used the steam sound from Rail Pro, but would like it to be more to the narrow-gauge sound, well someday Rail Pro will offer that sound, I hope. I would also like a diesel sound for my LGB #50 switcher, I’m having to use a large diesel sound and modify it to work for now.
i think it depends of what one is expecting from a layout.
for me an automated roundy-round is cheap and simple achieved with trackpower and the LGB - epl system.
but for people, who are into operations and or timesavers, or run live steam on the same track, i imagine that remote control and batteries might come in handy.
I have been battery since day one. i use code 250 alum rail which would be a real PITA electrically.
i started with locolinc but soon found operational issues with two transmiters in a small space, and changed to Airwire . have always been a Phoenix sound guy, sorry to see them go.
one other benefit is i can run visiting power at other locations whether the DCC system is up or not.
AL P.
I’m entirely battery+rc for my locos. We recently converted a Bachmann C-19 and a bachmann Fn3 Forney to Revo and battery, and is was a walk in the park. Both locos have plug-n-play mother boards, so you just plug in the Revo (or Blunami, or whatever,) add the battery to the screw terminals, and the most complicated thing is to find a place for the charging jack.
Like Korm, I run track power because it lends itself to automatic operations with virtually no modifications to the trains, other than perhaps sticking a magnet under it, and is by far the cheapest way to go. I use three AristoCraft Train Engineers (wireless track power) and any TE can be switched to any of the 21 blocks of track. Each also has a “built in” reversing unit so I can use any TE for point-to-point operations, and do in three areas using just one of the TEs.
I do have an engine that can run from an on-board TE with an internal Li-Ion pack or track power and use this to initially clean the track running from it’s battery.
I have been very tempted to to convert my other engines to “simple” battery power and have even devised a method to retain the automatic operations. For this, I would just use a battery with no speed control. We run the trains for display, and they typically run at the same speed pretty much all the time so speed control is not a necessity.
I have a single battery locomotive that I use to keep something moving while raising steam.
Regards, David Meashey
I’ve been battery/RC since day one. I eventually standardized on the Revo and have that in most of my locomotives and railcars. But, in my RR rebuild, I’m building to also have DCC track power.
Mixed feelings on this. I invested heavily in nickel-plated brass track, which requires very little cleaning – only to get dust off.
But I’ve been frustrated on many fronts with my NCE DCC system. Worse, I learned the hard way that if you leave electronic stuff connected to the rails, they are subject to your entire layout, which becomes a nice huge antenna for picking up an electrostatic charge from passing storms.
Yes, DCC is a form of rail power. But conversion to it can be, with the sound decoder, just as expensive as other conversions.
I’ve put a lot of work into DCC-controlled switch machines, and won’t easily let that go. However, I may continue to use the rails as a DCC bus for them.
Loco-wise, Jon’s had me pining for Rail Pro for a couple years… And, I recently bought an amazing RP-enabled critter, and controller, from Bruce. So… gears are turning.
Do you physically unhook your DCC when not in use, due to storms?
I sure do now!
,.,.,.,.,.,.,.
Oh nooooooooo!
It’s not difficult to unplug it though, as long as I’m not geezing.
Are you concerned? About…?
I probably am more concerned that the house has metal roofing and the garden bed is steel. Just surprised that it was an issue.
In any event, I don’t have a bunker with a blue pipe, the waybill codes, or a US Marine to accompany me and carry something like this during heightened tensions surrounding events like ShedOps 2024.
Though we were invaded by a splinter group from the Sydney Australian Garden railway club recently.
Bill, I didn’t mean to alarm you…
I was suggesting that if you have lightning issues, just provide a way to disconnect any sensitive elex from the rails, that’s all.
I haven’t been that close to a lightning strike… yet.
It’s always interesting to see what others do and why. There is really no right, or wrong way, just what works for you. One thing I really like about battery power is, I can take my engines to anyone track, put my engine on the rails and just start running regardless of what their control system is. Biggest thing is you have to stay with your engine and be in control all the time, but that’s the way I run my trains wherever I run them.
Track power on my first layout. It was in my full basement and controlled by all LGB power and controls.
Outside layout (Over 20 years ago) was dead rail and I’ve been Batt/RC ever since.
First with Airwire, and now Railpro.
I started off with track power, and a home made PWM controller. Outdoor - soon lost interest in cleaning track every time someone asked to see a train run so I converted 1 loco to battery (RCS / Phoenix) and have never looked back.
I don’t have a big roster so costs are relatively low. A while back (pre Railpro) I decided I wanted DCC functionality and moved to Airwire and Martin Sant’s ‘cheap DCC’ for those who remember. With a DCC enabled loco extra cost are about $100 USD to convert each.
Cheers
N