Large Scale Central

Basswood

Modeling
#1

I searched and discovered this site.
I plan to scratch build a few more cars this winter.
So I ordered some basswood strips.
I ordered everything in 36" lengths, in bundles of 10’s and 20’s.
I’ll let you know how the service was.

http://www.balsawoodinc.com/

#2

Prices look pretty good. Thanks for the link.

#3

Alex Kolyvanov is the owner of this company…I have dealt with him through his R/C business, AK Models. A true gentleman who cares a great deal about his customers and his products. I assume you will find the same high level of service I did.

FWIW, his Su-27 Flanker kit flys like a rocket on rails!

#4

I found that Poplar from Lowes is good as well. It comes in several lengths and widths, and it saws nicely.

Paul

#5

Speaking of sawing your own, does anyone have a recommendation for a high quality, very-thin kerf 10" table saw blade? I hate wasting so much wood when I cut.

#6

Check Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc. I bought one the other day 80 tooth Carbide and about half the width of the normal blade, I can take a picture of the finger I almost cut off with to give you an idea of how wide it is!

Paul

#7

Check Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc. I bought one the other day 80 tooth Carbide and about half the width of the normal blade, I can take a picture of the finger I almost cut off with to give you an idea of how wide it is!

Paul

#8

Bob, what I use (Not really a thin kerf blade at about 3/32") is the Freud Glue-line Rip blade. Lasts a long time between sharpenings and does an excellent job with no kerf marks if your saw fence is set up properly.

#9

If I sawed my own, it would look like spaghetti and I’d have no extremities left. :slight_smile: :slight_smile:
I’ll leave that to the pros.

#10

I use the ten-inch Forrest WoodWorker II thin-kerf (3/32) blade and am very happy with performance both ripping and cross-cutting. It consistently rates highest in all categories in tests by the woodworking magazines. At ~$95, not cheap, but worth the money, IMHO.

http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/product_28_WOODWORKER_II_Saw_Blade_3_32_THIN_KERF__Dampener_Stiffener_.html

I don’t use their stiffener plates and my blade consistently cuts a kerf .100 wide.
Steve

#11

One more thought. A well-adjusted bandsaw with proper blade will cut stripwood with much less kerf waste. Surface finish can be very good, but won’t be “glass smooth” like a good tablesaw blade makes. Very useful for simulating “rough cut” lumber.
Steve

#12
Steve Seitel said:
One more thought. A well-adjusted bandsaw with proper blade will cut stripwood with much less kerf waste. Surface finish can be very good, but won't be "glass smooth" like a good tablesaw blade makes. Very useful for simulating "rough cut" lumber. Steve
How much do you have to spend on a shrink to get a well adjusted band saw, though?
#13
Steve Seitel said:
One more thought. A well-adjusted bandsaw with proper blade will cut stripwood with much less kerf waste. Surface finish can be very good, but won't be "glass smooth" like a good tablesaw blade makes. Very useful for simulating "rough cut" lumber. Steve
A band saw will do most everything a table saw will do for model making and much safer. Thin kerf and will cut thin strips.

I buy a cedar 4x4 post to cut up for building models. Straight grain, no knots. One post last all year for about $40.

#14
Steve Featherkile said:
How much do you have to spend on a shrink to get a well adjusted band saw, though?
Ask your shrink this, "When is a knot not a knot?"
#15

I cant get either of my bandsaws adjusted to where the blade doesnt drift and ‘thin’ out the cut. drives me nutty.

#16

Wow, that’s a nice price. Considerably cheaper than Micro-Mark or Hobbylinc. I’ve been using my Microlux Mini-Table Saw from Micro Mark to cut the sheets to exact width. I’ve been very happy with the results. Here’s 40 pieces cut to 9.6" width:

(http://www.jbrr.com/Pics/RollingStock/Hopper/ETWNC/IMG_9667.JPG)

#17

Bruce,
I am seriously considering a Mikro Mark saw or a Proxxon.
I only want it for modeling, not carpentry.
I don’t have enough room for a big table saw.

#18

We’re “drifting” a little off topic, I suppose, but I’ve found the secret to “correcting” bandsaw blade drift is to accept that it’s always there and adjust the angle of the rip fence so I’m feeding in the work at the angle the blade wants. There’s a simple procedure for doing this, which (for me at least) works every time:

  1. Make or find a board with one straight edge. Any convenient size, but about 1 x 4 x 16 is good. The edge must be straight.
  2. Mark a line down the board about 1 inch in from the straight edge and parallel to that edge.
  3. Feed the board into the blade freehand (no fence), adjusting the angle until the blade cuts straight down the line.
  4. Stop the saw and without moving the board, mark along the straight edge onto the table top with a pencil.
  5. Set the fence angle to the pencil line.

That’s it. As a test, finish feeding the board through the saw against the fence. The cut should stay right on the line, and you should be able to cut very thin strips of constant thickness.

If you already knew that, my apologies.
Steve

#19
Bob McCown said:
I cant get either of my bandsaws adjusted to where the blade doesnt drift and 'thin' out the cut. drives me nutty.
Using a bandsaw is not like using a table saw in that you have to follow the line freehand (more or less). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OY3oKtssZk&noredirect=1
#20

David’s video demonstrates the method perfectly! Thanks, David.
Steve