Large Scale Central

Basic Air Tools for G Scale Railroad Projects

General Discussion
#41

David Maynard said:

Cliff Jennings said:

Echoing what David M said, HF air hose might be a lot cheaper than copper. For example, $50 for a “premium” 1/2" 100’ coil. Copper, at 1/2" nom, 10x 10’ long would be at least twice that (in type “L”).

I don’t know though what the codes might say about “permanently” installing hose for this sort of service.

Cliff, I don’t worry about codes, because my installs aren’t permanent. In a home shop setting, I am not sure codes would apply unless the install is suggested to be permanent. My hose through the attic system only lasted about 10 years or so. My new work area has extension cords running under the floor. The floor, the walls, the power, all of it is of a temporary nature. If/when it comes time to sell the house, all of that will be removed before the first appraisal.

Building codes have no bearing on our home shop “cobble ins” whether its electrical, plumbing, or even carpentry until there is a problem or accident and your home owners insurance investigator arrives. Then all of a sudden building code violations figure very prominently in the situation.

I have always felt that if I’m doing it myself it is best to do it to code.

A retired Mechanical Contractor myself I agree completely with Michael Glavin’s post above. One further thing I would recommend and have done is use 3/4 inch pipe for any runs over 25-30 feet and then reduce, it’s that old problem of volume (cfm storage)

Rick

#42

David was only looking at a 3 gallon compressor from his original post. However you can inflate Jeep tires or use the tire pressure to bump up the CFM’s if necessary.

This post has been edited by:Rooster for proper punctuation

#43

Rooster,

He also in a later post agreed he had not fully worked through all the options available. While we have drifted significantly it is relevant to the use of hobby air tools. Many people (me included) don’t consider the option of a shop compressor piped to the hobby room. I was going to do as he was thinking and have two compressors. Well maybe this conversation drifting to the region it has will give him another consideration. Besides we pretty well hashed his original query. Thread drift at this point to a broader topic is acceptable.

As always if the information is of no use then we have the choice to not read it. I personally am gaining a great deal of knowledge from the thread. And if we can help the OP and have the added bonus of helping other then bonus.

I have never understood why people get butt hurt over thread drift. If the OP got his answer and the conversation goes elsewhere why would anyone care. Its not like your obligated to read it.

#44

I picked up the 10 gallon, 2.5 hp from Harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/10-gal-25-hp-125-psi-oil-lube-air-compressor-62441.html

this runs this the purple spray gun.

Very happy with the compressor.

I using this gun to paint my horse trailer. The pin nailer works flawlessly with this compressor. I plan to use it with a framing nailer in the near future.

#45

Devon Sinsley said:

Rooster,

He also in a later post agreed he had not fully worked through all the options available. While we have drifted significantly it is relevant to the use of hobby air tools. Many people (me included) don’t consider the option of a shop compressor piped to the hobby room. I was going to do as he was thinking and have two compressors. Well maybe this conversation drifting to the region it has will give him another consideration. Besides we pretty well hashed his original query. Thread drift at this point to a broader topic is acceptable.

As always if the information is of no use then we have the choice to not read it. I personally am gaining a great deal of knowledge from the thread. And if we can help the OP and have the added bonus of helping other then bonus.

I have never understood why people get butt hurt over thread drift. If the OP got his answer and the conversation goes elsewhere why would anyone care. Its not like your obligated to read it.

Just sayin’.

#46

When I built my shop, I used a commercial grade of air line (I think it is brake line) and “push on” fittings. They are hidden in the walls of the shed now, but work fine. I put a drain at the lowest point of the line so water can be blown out easily. I’ve got taps on the air line at my workbench, on the outside of the shed, and at the place where my air switches connect to a 3/4 pvc pipe.

#47

Not Butthurt Devon only trying to help.

Hope David (the original poster) purchases a cheap compressor and GOOD air tools. Had I purchased a better compressor and hard piped it perhaps I wouldn’t have to build on the 10’ rule. However I haven’t built anything model wise in year so perhaps I just better read the forums and learn from the experts that post on every thread.

#48

Rooster,

Well I am glad we are all trying to help. And like you I am glad people did so I could read the thread and learn from the experts. I now can avoid a serious air tool mistake.

I also hope the OP read all the valuable information here and makes an informed decision based on all the information provided, even the stuff he didn’t know to ask about.

#49

An expert? Not me. I never want to be one of those. You know, X is an unknown factor, and spurt is a drip under pressure, so an Expert is an unknown drip under pressure. Nope, I really don’t wanna be one of them. (http://largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-tongue-out.gif)

#50

I’ve been looking at the HF 10 gal compressor. I like the smaller footprint of the upright compressors (like the 21 gal). I need to go and look at them and try to visualize them in my garage space.

I took a look at driers. Some of these cost as much as or more than some of the the small compressors. I was originally thinking to insert this before the split to garage and basement lines. Someone else suggested locating it at the terminal point in the basement shop. So do some of you have several of these driers? Or a drier at each terminal point? What kind of damage does the water do to nail guns? Sounds like it messes up paint jobs. Will water shorten the life of various tools?

I saw the post about expanding the discussion beyond just G scale. I was hoping to be somewhat general. I’m still need to learn about how to select the correct gauge. Seems 23 gauge pin nailer works for a lot of hobby stuff and is a given. Stapler sounds like a must. I’d be interested in what some use on larger railroad structures.

I’m still trying to catch up on the flood of great posts.

Here’s my ‘current’ garage compressor. Can’t seem to find a manual for it online. Heck, can’t even find a model number. Definitely not Porter Cable or Craftsman. (http://www.largescalecentral.com/externals/tinymce/plugins/emoticons/img/smiley-wink.gif)

#51

OK, before you spend a bunch of money on a full system dryer let me clarify what I was suggesting. When trying to find what I was talking about to refer you too, I have the wrong name. What I use is a moisture trap similar to this one. I use this at my bench right before my regulator. They are connected together as one unit in a manifold. My idea is to use the one trap and then have two regulators, one for air brushing and one for air tools. There is this offering from Passche which combines the trap and the regulator in one unit (basically what I use now). If your only going to have one connection at your hobby bench then this would be what I would use.

I don’t know that a person needs a full system dryer for normal air tools, keep them oiled. Water is the enemy of a paint job. I only have one for airbrushing so at the point of use is all I think I need. In my model car days the trap made the difference in my paint jobs. Even though the trap never has water in it I think it does its job. I used to get water droplets occasional in my paint until I got one. Never since. Cheap insurance.

As for your compressor whats wrong with it? Space? For the hobby application that one would be more than sufficient I would think. Run a line tot he hobby room and set up a manifold at the bench and our in business.

#52

Let me see if I can muddy the waters a bit further. First, a dryer and a water separator, are for most purposes the same item. They both serve the function of removing condensable moisture from the air line. The difference is in the finished air output. A desiccant dryer does a better job of removing the moisture, which is the desired result when spraying paint…regardless of whether it is a full size paint gut to spray your automobile, or an air brush to paint trains.

ALL air operated tools require DRY air to last a long time. Do be careful though, as some air tools, require LUBRICATION. Most can be lubricated with a drop of two of the recommended oil into the inlet connection of the tool, follow the tool’s instruction manual. That being said …

I would suggest a dryer/separator (your choice) at the output of the compressor in the common line, sized for an air flow of the largest tool you anticipate purchasing. Again this is a ONE TIME purchase that will last probably longer than the compressor so long as it is take care of. A dryer capable of handling 10scfm for a full size paint gun will certainly handle an air brush.

I have a separate pressure regulator (actually two inline) set up to be plugged into the air system where ever I need to have regulated air. Again this make it a ONE TIME purchase and moves where I need it. The reason for two is the first regulator will only go down to 10 psog consistently, it get flakey after that. The second regulator will take it down to 2 psig consistently, where I do most of my air brushing. There is a ‘T’ in between them to allow me to isolate the higher quality (dollar) regulator when I don’t need it.

FWIW

Bob C.

#53

I’ve found this Paasche Moisture Trap to meet my needs.

http://www.micromark.com/paasche-moisture-trap,9554.html