What is F Scale? Basically standard gauge 1:20.3 equipment, 70.6 mm between the rails. For more info check here - http://www.cumberlandmodelengineering.com/ So years ago, I bought an LGB Fish Belly flat for this purpose. Today I dug into it, tore it down and got to the frame.
and split it in half on my band saw -
Now we got two pieces
and the next part is putting it back together after cleaning off the rough edge left by the saw
So you are taking a different, simpler approach than Bob started when we all picked these up in York. I just moved mine the other day. It’s in the way so I guess it’s time to start dissecting. I’ll wait 'till you get a few steps ahead 
Oh - and I need a belt for my band saw.
Ric -
Did you happen to save the photos Bob posted back in his April '06 thread when we first started talking about this ? Unfortunately, Bob deleted the pictures. I don’t remember him cutting the center beam, but the text suggests he did.
Kind of looks like when the cut a chest open for heart surgery!
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20004.jpg)
-Brian
Brian Donovan said:
Kind of looks like when the cut a chest open for heart surgery!(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20004.jpg)
-Brian
Must be a male comparison as I see no extra structural support for heavy mammory tissue. Thinkin’ boobs again!!! Ric, Been all over that site since it was posted in another thread…quite informative Thank you sir! 
That looks like an old Shopsmith bandsaw Ric, eh?
Not a Shopsmith, a 12 inch Craftsman.
So the next step was to layout on my building pad the dimensions of the standard gauge frame. That is what the two parallel lines of masking tape represent.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20007.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20008.jpg)
The width is 9 ft 11 inches and basically adding an inch and 9/16’s between the frames.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20009.jpg)
or 2 ft 9 inches in 1:20.3
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20010.jpg)
I used some tabs in the end of the car to create binding spots and give the plastic strapping something to grab.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20011.jpg)
Got those straps glued in place at each end and I’ve got a structural shape.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20012.jpg)
Next is to start building up the old bolster pockets.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091021%20013.jpg)
This is going to slow way down in “quick progress” as I fill in each cross frame member and sister together all connections of the frame.
So, this car will be about 39 scale feet long, then?
That is what is looking like. I’ve got plans for a 40 ft PRR flat car I’m working from and maybe thoughts of extending it to 40 feet or maybe even 53 feet. Tis an unknown thought at this time. Right now, I’m just working on getting the 2 halves put back together.
Things have really progressed today concerning the connection of the cross braces on the flat car frame. A rainy day can provide unexpected free time that is perfect for working on a modeling project. All of a sudden this evening I realized I better get some pictures of the “sistering of the cross braces” or it would be done. Here you can see how 3 of the 4 cross braces are spliced together. Nothing new here just using the process shown to us by Bob or Bart a number of years ago.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20001.jpg)
A closer view shows spacer plastic sandwiched between two thinner pieces.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20003.jpg)
First I used a piece of thin plastic for one side. This matches the ends of the original cross braces and fills completely from one main beam to the other. Yes, I use that ultra thin plastic recommended by Bart, called “For Sale” signs from the big box store. Takes glue well and you can cut it with a scissors. It is glued and clamped into place.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20004.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20005.jpg)
Once that kicks, just a few minutes, I let gravity be my friend and stand the frame up on end. Next to be glued in place is the spacer plastic. This like the other two pieces of the sandwich is pre-cut. The spacer plastic is the same thickness as the beams that are being “sistered” together. The spacer plastic is fitted into place for the final time after glue is applied.
So glue is applied across the original cross beam and the spacer plastic of the sister piece.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20008.jpg)
And the other thin sheet of plastic is applied.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20009.jpg)
Clamps are applied to this to allow a good bit of drying time.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20010.jpg)
Next part of the project is to continue filling in the area where the original bolsters existed in the molded plastic and prepare for the new location of the bolsters for the standard gauge wheel set.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20012.jpg)
I’ve been using this glue from Tap Plastic.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091022%20013.jpg)
I did make a change of putting the glue solvent into a smaller, old glue jar. Notice the big lid provided with the product. Lots of the product was vaporizing out with nasty smells and fumes. The smaller opening lets far less out in the atmosphere, protects the purity of the supply and may help save a brain cell or two.
Very interesting project, Ric! I’m learning a thing or two here.
Lots of good ideas here, especially the wood block to stabilize the glue bottle 
From what I remember of how Bob approached this, your method seems lots simpler. Looking good.
Thank you, but from memory I was following what I thought Bob did. Did he try to make it standard guage or 1:20.3 narrow gauge? I can’t remember.
Ric, Like the mods so far good info for future use. Glad you’re posting pics as you go. I would like to have a photographer like you do when I’m trying to build and take pics to show the process. I do learn a good bit watching other people build. Lot of tips and tricks that they don’t think of to mention show up in the photos. Not only the block to hold the glue, but the colored tape to mark the glue and applicator.
And the always have plenty of clear space to work on your project
Nice.
I think a 53" flat would be pretty impressive.
Plenty of room for an interesting load.
Ralph
Ric Golding said:He was doing Standard I think. I wish his pictures weren't broken. I could almost swear he made two cuts. In any case, I remember his framing rebuild as being much more complicated. Yours is logical, sturdy and looks fairly simple.
Thank you, but from memory I was following what I thought Bob did. Did he try to make it standard guage or 1:20.3 narrow gauge? I can't remember.
Yesterday, I got far enough along to post a couple of pictures of the project flat car next to a Bachmann 1:20.3 flat car.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091023%20001.jpg)
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091023%20002.jpg)
Not having the standard gauge track or trucks, yet, I thought I could mount it back on the original trucks that, I guess, now are classified narrow gauge trucks.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091023%20003.jpg)
Yeap, they wouldn’t fit without taking one axle out of each truck. Got the saw out and cut away more plastic.
(http://www.lscdata.com/users/rgolding/091023%20004.jpg)
Out of time for more work and pictures as Grandson Luke and I had to run to the hobby shop for assorted thin plastic sheets, do some light rail watching at the Metro Link station and do some running at the HO layout I operate on most Friday nights.
Great job!
I’m doing one in 1:20.3 for a “special load”.
Where did you get that layout pad? (Or set-up whatever-- the green thing with lines on it.)
