I’m getting ready to start working on the indoor staging for my layout (outdoor portion to start next spring). My goals are to be able to stage a couple of trains of reasonable length, escape an engine from an incoming move, and have a loop for continuous running to test things during the off season. Below is a first crack at it, but I don’t really know what I’m doing, and could use the experience of the seasoned modelers.
I should add that I’ve settled on 4’ minimum radius (8’ diameter), and #6 minimum switch. Track will be SVRR code 250 brass.
Eric,
Before progressing to the outdoor layout, I built a suspended under house layout - see track sketch below. My trains now emanate from that layout to outdoors.
See vignette (article) about method of construction “Underhouse suspended layout”
-Ted
Seems like you have a lot of the key elements covered, a reverse loop, a passing track and some sidings to stuff things into when you want to change order of cars, or pull a misbehaving car.
You mention #6 as a minimum. They are quite long. I’m not sure they will fit where you have drawn a few; especially by the shelves. I think the next step would be to try and draw this to scale with track planning software or a track template.
Well, its a reverse loop and a Wye. No issue if you are battery power. If you are track power, you need to know how to wire those animals.
The staging tracks look to be rather inaccessible. That would make it difficult to “stage” a different train on them.
The previous was the stated observations of a rank amateur in the area of operations and staging yards, and do not reflect the opinions of this station, nor its affiliates.
Eric Reuter said:
My goals are to be able to stage a couple of trains of reasonable length, escape an engine from an incoming move, and have a loop for continuous running to test things during the off season.
Eric,
What’s a reasonable length?
Bruce Chandler said:
What’s a reasonable length?
Whatever I can fit, essentially. The basement is pretty cramped. It’s been suggested elsewhere that I get rid of those stub ends and curve them back into the loop. If I can find another place for the stuff that’s stored on the shelving there, I’ll likely do that to get a little more length.
Jon Radder said:
You mention #6 as a minimum. They are quite long. I’m not sure they will fit where you have drawn a few; especially by the shelves. I think the next step would be to try and draw this to scale with track planning software or a track template.
I’m concerned about that. I ordered some switches so I can lay them out on the floor and see what it looks like. So if I’m designing to a minimum 4’ radius, how short of a switch can I get away with? I’m using body-mounted couplers, and will likely have some passenger cars.
Battery power only. I should have mentioned that.
Yea, I second Jon’s comment, I think your drawing shows switches “sharper” than #6… #4 should be more in keeping with the curve diameter you have… the Aristo “wide radius” switches are about a #4 frog and work well matching 10 and 8 foot diameter curves.
Greg
David Maynard said:
The staging tracks look to be rather inaccessible. That would make it difficult to “stage” a different train on them.
I see what you mean. The wye is right in the way. Maybe I push the north end of the loop to the north, and move the engine and caboose tracks to the inside of the loop? That way, everything is accessible from the middle.
A 8’ diameter circle should allow you to run most everything.
Have you considered the LGB 16000 series switches or the Aristocraft wide radius? They are code 332 but they mirror the 8’ foot diameter curve track and they are approx 19" long which means you can fit them in tight spots. I don’t know the frog number.
I like the plan for the WYE you will have fun turning trains there.
The most important thing to remember in your design is to build in access to all areas.
Eric Reuter said:
Bruce Chandler said:
What’s a reasonable length?
Whatever I can fit, essentially. The basement is pretty cramped. It’s been suggested elsewhere that I get rid of those stub ends and curve them back into the loop. If I can find another place for the stuff that’s stored on the shelving there, I’ll likely do that to get a little more length.
If you’re going to get into operations, you might want to decide an appropriate train length. I happen to run 5 car trains, but Andy runs much longer ones, such as 14 or 18. (I’ll remember more after this coming weekend!)
In some cases, train lengths are governed by the length of a passing siding; that’s how I came up with my trains of 5 cars, but others might like to limit them to small trains to minimize the puzzle nature that switching can sometimes bring. Or, you might like long trains, but always drop off or pick up longer lengths of cars. Lots of options, but it’s your personal tastes that make the rules. Or, maybe it’s your inventory of rolling stock, or the number of industries on your layout. I need about 40 cars to operate my layout the way I want to (2 Trains, cars stay at each industry for at least a “day”.)
I ended up making one end (a loop) my staging tracks. I start one train there (Train#2), already made up, and use the other track as a destination track for Train #1. Since it’s a loop, I can enter or exit going different directions, but it is basically just a long siding.
For accessibility, leave the inside of the loop open then build a duck-under, lift out, or folding section so you can get inside. This is the folding bridge on my indoor loop…
I found when I expanded my basement track that building the benches first I was able to fool around with actual track and settle on an alignment I liked.
A lot of the space you have is taken up with using switches in a ladder.
It will save space if you used 3 or 5 way switches, but of course don’t use the LGB one!
Train li used to have some interesting ones at a very good price, but all I see now are $500 ones…
I was lucky enough to buy the original 5 way:
They had the 3 way version of this on their site until recently.
Greg
Good idea. I enquired about 3-way switches from Sunset Valley. They are available in either 60" or 90" radius, and in brass, they are in the $250 range. Very reasonable. I think I’ll use at least one and probably two.
Tooting my own horn for an ad, I’m selling one of Rodney’s 3-way switches
https://www.largescalecentral.com/forums/topic/25454/code-250-switches
Here’s another concept, incorporating your comments. I’ve crossed the stairs, which I was hoping to avoid, but gained a lot of flexibility. I’ve incorporated 3-way switches, #4 switches of approximately real radii, and opened up the circulation area in the center so more of the yard is reachable.
Hi Eric,
I like this new design, offers you a lot more variety and operational possibilities.
on a side note; in 1966, I lived on the Navy base and walked (through the snow) to the high school. I have fond memories from starting at 3rd base and winning it all for Kittery! I see Traip Academy is still there…
I agree with John. This design could definitely be used as an operating indoor layout should you choose to do so. If you incorpoarte some car storage tracks beneth the staging yard you could use the staging tracks as industries during the winter when the outdoor is shut down.