Large Scale Central

Base material for buildings

Modeling
#1

I have several buildings in my layout and have had them just sitting on the ground. I just added these buildings to the layout last year. I don’t like the look of this, and this year would like to fine tune the look. What material can I use that will withstand the elements. The buildings are mostly Piko, some Pola, which may not need to be based, and some to be built from scratch.

The theme of the layout is more of a New England feel, as opposed to a Western or industrial look.

I did try a search, and did not achieve any ideas after looking thru some of the posts, not all of them.

Any suggestions or advice is most appreciated.

#2

Hi Shelley , I like to use cement board for the bases of some of my buildings. Its available at your local home improvement stores and it holds up to the elements .

#3

I use pvc trim board.


This was a rather large base but you get the idea. I paint it to whatever color I need.

Terry

#4

Mike,

thanks. That is what I was thinking would be the recommendation. Will the cement board allow for water to pass thru, or will it pool on top?

I will be off to local store soon.

Thanks again. :slight_smile:

#5

Terry,

What thickness is your board? I guess I could also use Azak (sp). I would assume the PVC board is cheap enough. I have used Azak for house related stuff, very hard to cut, and rather expensive.

#6

HI Shelley

I like to use cement patio pavers. They come in different sizes, 16x16, 8x16 and all by 2" thick.
I have used cement board which works well and I have also used a form of cement board called hardibacker. Both of these are designed to be used in wet locations such as a bathroom behind tiles. With the hardibacker I cut it in 12" strips, you can score it and snap it and I used it as a retaining wall behind the scenes where no one would see it. The first couple of years were fine but then they started turning brittle and cracking into pieces. I don’t know if this was a result of one side being in contact with dirt and the other open to freeze/ thaw winters and 100 degree summers. I have another piece 3’x5’ underneath a factory but this one rests on gravel and so far so good. Hardibacker I believe is resistant to water whereas cement board is water proof. The backer is easier to work with and a bit cheaper but be careful where it goes.
Of course painting the board will help it to last longer.
Water doesn’t pass through either material.

Happy RRing

#7

I use patio pavers as well. If the paver is larger then the building throw some small stone around the exposed paver. Its easy to move if you want to change the buildings location.

#8

We have tried Tile, but they keep breaking/cracking…

What we are using now, are the patio pavers, like the others are… We also use the large patio pavers for roads and/or walkways… Eventually, will use bag of concrete mix for the curve part of the raods…

Cement board still needs to be sealed up or painted to help it last longer…

#9

I like the cement board cuz it can be cut close to the base of your structure . I’ve had mine outside for a few years now , unpainted in our Chicago climate for years now and I haven’t noticed any deteriaton . If it was to crumble or whatever I would just make another base. Another advantage is its easy to make a hole in it to run lites to the structure from underneath. The paver blocks work good too but they are much heaver . For roads I like to dig a small trench where the road will go and then line it with a wire mesh. Use wire coathangers to make “j” shaped clips to to hold the wire mesh down to the ground. After your satisfied with the path of the road mix up some mortar mix (no stones) and trowel the mortar over the mesh about 1 inch thick. As it starts to set I use my garden hose on the mist setting to smooth away any trowel marks . Then take your trowel and trim the sides of the mortar so you have a nice clean edge. After it is all set up I go and paint the road with asphalt driveway sealer .

#10

I poured a cement base for my barn. I had used hardiboard for the foundation and foundation walls of my saw mill, based on the recommendation of an “experienced” modeler. Even though the foundation walls were painted, the walls flaked off in layers the first spring that building was outside. The foundation (base) is crumbling beneath the building, but since it cant be seen I am not too concerned. If I lift that heavy building, ok, when I lift that heavy building, cement board will be used to replace the foundation.

#11

I’ve been having good luck with cement board I put it on a very slight grade so any water will run off.

With the gold mill I poured cement. Now I have to figure out how to keep the building from blowing away!

#12

The PVC trim board is 5/8" thick. I just imbed it in the ground. I haven’t had it rot or crumble.

Terry

#13

I’ve started using the PVC board too, though it does have a tendency to warp when 2-3 pieces of it are glued together. That’s easily fixed with a couple of 1/2" aluminum angle braces screwed to the bottom.

I use it for station and freight building platforms.

(http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh58/rgseng/expansion/Hesperus/Goldings%20Transfer/GoldingTransfer04_zps790a23bf.jpg)

#14

I tried Backerboard, it lasted 1 year. So, like Ken, I now use PVC board with same stiffening underneath.
Works for me.

#15

Over the last few years I have seen, on many fora, some wonderful models created but sadly they did not seem last.

I decided, at the outset, that as this area is lush, suffers from high winds and until recently dogs also lived here, I would build my structures out of solid treated lumber. The advantage is wind does not move them and a quick repaint is needed from time to time.

Pavers are an ideal support for many structures I agree. Do not rot and are usually stable. Floods are not a feature here.

Solid structures also have other uses. Sometimes, when needing something to help give me a steady hand when getting up of the dirt, my elevator serves that purpose as does my barn and covered bridge.

#16

Hi Shelley,
In the sunny south where we can have heavy duty winds, lots of sun, and sometimes lots of humidity with our rains, people have tried all kinds of bases… One fellow swore over “tiles” and since they were in abundance, many tried them. I personally did and never had any trouble with breakage or cracking… Then I purchased a whole collection of buildings with “plexiglass” bases attached and they really seemed to hold up for long periods of time, and did not appear to need drainage. I love to have sides to add accessories and figures to my vignettes as well, so even tho my layout is gone, I still cut small pieces to surround my buildings… IF you need wiring, it can be drilled easily. AND they won’t blow away. Elaine
P.S. I would think the cement pavers would work too… I generally paint and enhance my bases, not sure how well that would do on them…

#17

These all sound like great ideas, and probably any on them would work for me. I wonder if I could use the “blue” or “pink” insulation? And if so, can it be painted?

#18

Shelly, it actually would need to be painted. But you can’t use a solvent based paint on it. I used Krylon latex spray paint on mine. But after a few years outside, the ants have found it and have burrowed tunnels through my foam

#19

When you talk about the insulation did you mean the cement board?

When I got mine it was a light nearly cement-like and I used it as is. It comes close enough to look like sidewalk to pass the five foot rule!

#20

Doug, I thought we were talking about the extruded foam building insulation, it comes in blue and pink, and green and gray round here